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Remove lower steering stem race from frame.

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  • Remove lower steering stem race from frame.

    I have all of the other races out, the one that I cant get a grip on is the one on the bottom of the neck of the frame. I've rented a couple bearing race removal tools but none have the proper width. I've notched it up with a dremel. I've used chisels and punches. If anyone has any other ideas of how to remove this stubborn pos let me know.

  • #2
    Use the Dremel to cut the race, then use a cold chisel to break the race into two parts. This took me about an hour the last time I did it, but I went slowly as the bike only has 21K miles on it.
    1. put a thin cut-off blade on the dremel
    2. cut two slots in the race, trying to go almost through the race.
    3. with a cold chisel, try to break the race by putting the edge of the chisel into one slot and hitting it with a big hammer.
    4. once it breaks, use a long punch to remove the two parts.
    5. use the dremel cut-off blade to make the two slots in the neck, at the seat portion, larger so it is easier to get a punch on the race next time.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
      Use the Dremel to cut the race, then use a cold chisel to break the race into two parts. This took me about an hour the last time I did it, but I went slowly as the bike only has 21K miles on it.
      1. put a thin cut-off blade on the dremel
      2. cut two slots in the race, trying to go almost through the race.
      3. with a cold chisel, try to break the race by putting the edge of the chisel into one slot and hitting it with a big hammer.
      4. once it breaks, use a long punch to remove the two parts.
      5. use the dremel cut-off blade to make the two slots in the neck, at the seat portion, larger so it is easier to get a punch on the race next time.
      Are we talking vertical or horizontal slots here? I put both on while trying different removal methods

      Comment


      • #4
        If all else fails, you could always try throwing some heat on it. Many times it will just fall right out practically when you get it glowing. I have done like Ray suggested before with vertical cuts, I did ding up the metal slightly on the frame below the race but it didn't cause any problems installing the new one.
        2H7 (79) owned since '89
        3H3 owned since '06

        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

        ☮

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
          If all else fails, you could always try throwing some heat on it. Many times it will just fall right out practically when you get it glowing. I have done like Ray suggested before with vertical cuts, I did ding up the metal slightly on the frame below the race but it didn't cause any problems installing the new one.
          I am trying the vertical notches to no avail. My cold chisel is now rounded off. The main issue is that there is not enough lip to firm set a punch on. I tried grinding the slot down to make more clearance for the punch but that's not working either. Heat also seems to make no difference. It's not glowing but it's super hot

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          • #6
            ... 5 mins after my last post lol

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            • #7
              That's a good feeling
              -Mike
              _________
              '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
              '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
              '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
              '79 XS750SF 17k miles
              '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
              '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
              '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

              Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

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              • #8
                Sorry, I should have said vertical slots. The idea is to cut the race into two half round parts. This will make it smaller and it should come out.
                I'm happy you finally have it out! Be sure to use a LOT of grease in the new bearings. I used the EP Moly grease, so it will take the pressure longer before the race starts to wear.
                Ray Matteis
                KE6NHG
                XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Banshee, if you have a welder of any sort(arc or wire-feed) weld a bead around inside of that race, shrinking it. It will then just fall out.
                  Last edited by motoman; 09-27-2020, 02:50 PM.
                  81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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                  • #10
                    What about one of the spray cans of “freeze-off”? Hit that bearing race with a shot of that then pop it out? Could even heat the outside of the stem for a quick burst after cooling the race.
                    Howard

                    ZRX1200

                    BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Bonz View Post
                      What about one of the spray cans of “freeze-off”? Hit that bearing race with a shot of that then pop it out? Could even heat the outside of the stem for a quick burst after cooling the race.
                      Good thought Bonz. Problem with heating outer stem would be the heat WILL transfer to bearing race expanding it which is not what one wants to happen. Still, best option at this point would be to run a weld bead around inside of bearing race and it WILL fall out from the weld bead shrinking the metal.
                      81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I think that's a great idea hopefully he has the ability to do the welding.

                        The heat transferring crossed my mind however I was thinking a quick burst of heat around the stem would minimize heat transfer to the (hopefully) "super cooled" bearing and the combination would be better than just freezing the race itself and popping it out.
                        Howard

                        ZRX1200

                        BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Great ideas guys, the race has been out lol. I just used heat and a punch and a couple hours of hammering

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                          • #14
                            Put the race in the freezer for about an hour before the install. It will go in much easier. Also, I used a 1' length of 2" steel water pipe( I think it was 2") to install the bearing on the steering stem. I took the old bearing apart, ground out the inside of it so it would slip over the stem, and used it to install the new bearing.
                            Ray Matteis
                            KE6NHG
                            XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                            XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                            Comment

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