Hazard Flashers

[noeleo]

Can't seem to get my hazard flashers to work. Have tried everything I can think of, and can't figure out what I'm missing. Any suggestions? Thanks

[TopCatGr58]

The hazard flasher is a separate flasher unit than the turn signals, and it may be bad!? IT's only 2 prong unit, and can be replaced with a standard auto 2 prong type. It's round, and I think under the seat, inbetween the frame rails!?

But also could be corrosion in the handlebar switch, but I'd check the flasher first!
T.C.

[LoserShoes]

On mine it was the handlebar switch, with the switch on the bottom of the bar, it lets all kinds water and bugs in. One contact was so corroded that the wire just fell off when I took mine apart.

Take it apart carefully and keep track of the small bits.

Steve

[noeleo]

Thanks for the replies. Took apart the switch, and BINGO. There was the problem. Cleaned it up, and now they work just fine. Appreciate all your help, guys. Thanks

[DeanR]

My hazards haven't worked either. So I'm in my switch housing right now, looks good except 3 wires are loose from the hazard switch. Don't know if they have been that way right along or if they broke free as I was getting in there. Anyway I can't tell which goes where. They are brown, brown/yellow, and brown white. All right next to each other. Do you guys know which order they connect? THANKS

[DeanR]

Hey guys, just figured out the connections. By process of elimination got them working. Now I just have to figure out how to solder the connections with a soldering kit I don't think I've ever used. Can't be that hard. Any tips? Thanks again

[LoserShoes]

Clean everything good with some fine sandpaper and use a good flux like Nocorode and solid core solder, rosin core doesn't work to well for this sort of thing. Use enough heat to get a good flow on the solder. The mid range Weller soldering gun is enough, not sure of the heat range offhand, but like 50 - 60 watts.
If I remeber right, the contacts like a copper rivet, and the wires solder into a hole in bottom of them, you should put a little flux in them, heat them and shake out the old solder, that will make it easier to make the new solder joint.

Steve

[DeanR]

Hi Steve, This soldering gun looks to big for this job but its all I have (Weller 100/140 watts). One tip is smaller than the other but those round contact points are pretty small. Is the plastic housing in jeopardy of some melting if I can't do it precisely enough? Everything is cleaned off well. Still have to get some solder and I did notice that some has the flux right in it. As I think about it, can't believe I've never needed to solder anything! Appreciate the advice!

[LoserShoes]

Plastic should be fine if you don't touch it directly with the tip. Put little flux on first and flow the old solder to get rid of all the old oxides that have formed. You can always turn the gun on and off if you think its too getting too hot. If everything is good and clean it will flow on easy and not be a problen. Melt the solder with the joint , not the iron. Make sure the tip is well tinned, touch the solder with the hot tip and it should flow onto the tip. Don't rush it and maybe practice on something else first.

Steve

[DeanR]

Talk about feeling stupid. Can't get this solder deal to work, even on practice wire and similar looking rivets on a light switch with a smaller tip soldering iron I came up with. I have the stuff that says it is for electronic work, not plumbing. It is the resin core. Steve, you said melt the solder with the joint not the tip. Not sure how to do that with everything right next to each other, and the plastic sheathing on the wire gets to hot to hold. It won't make the connection. I must be missing something, like talent.
Any more advise? Thanks a bunch

[DeanR]

Just needed a little more patience and practice I guess.
Everything's back together and working!
A little vise grip helped a lot.
Thanks

[LoserShoes]

Yup, just takes a little practice and patience.

Steve