xs1100 special fouled plugs

[dewibp]

Just got back into town. I am going to replace all the bad carb hose and bought a bunch of new spring hose clamps too. Steve, while I wait for you to get back from riding to Sturgis and back I will pull the carbs again and check the vent lines. Have a good/safe trip.

[dewibp]

Bought all new gas line hoses and new spring clips so all minor leaks are now stopped!!! Blew into the vent lines on carbs and they appear to be open. Seems to be idling better with the exception of #4 cylinder not firing. Spark to plug when I remove it from the cylinder but shows wet with gas when I install back in head and try to run. Switched #1 &#4 plug wires and did not help either. No gas leaking out back of carbs (air cleaner) indicating fuel shut off or stuck float issues on this cylinder. Even does this with a new plug. Any thoughts?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there DEW,

I'm thinking you probably don't want to hear from me!, but just reread this thread, and your fouling problem has jumped all around, so like you found, changing the spark plug wires from #1 and 4 didn't help. As mentioned before by others, once a plug has fouled, it's hard to get it to fire again. Still sounds like a rich problem with #4 now.

Get another clean new plug. Start the engine and run it a little while, then pull plugs 1 and 4. Put #1 plug that should have been firing into #4, and put NEW plug in #1. AND, SWAP Plug wires, #1 to 4. Then restart and try to run, and see if #4 cylinder will warm up and fire. Then pull # 1 and #4 plug and check for fouling/condition.

If #4 is fuel fouled again, then you know it's the carb and not the ignition, coil, wires, plug cap. BUT, if the fouling changes to #1 again, then even though you can see spark when testing outside the cylinder, the wires and cap may not be transmitting enough juice to fire under compression!? And then you can chase down the ignition issue and not the carb!?
Good Luck.

[dewibp]

FINALLY A SUCESS STORY! Started messing with it again tonight and after trying Top Cat's items I decided to REALLY check out the "dreaded coil pickup wire problem". After yanking on the wires i found a spot that felt pretty soft/thin and cut into it. I really did not determine for sure if it was a problem and not having soldering gun, etc. I crimped a compression electrical end on it and went for a ride. Same problem with the missing cutting out at 4,000 probably from the fouled plugs. I then loosened the air box and let it drop down about a 1/2 inch so I was running air straight to the carbs. IT ABOUT YANKED ME OFF THE BIKE WHEN I CRACKED THE THROTTLE AT 4,000 RPM!!!!!!!! All the way to 6,000 r.p.m. with none of the cutting out, etc. By the way I am getting up in age and don't need that much stimulation so I eased off at 6,000!! I thought OKAY what is the problem the coil pick up wire (happened to be the gray one I spliced) (By the way what cylinders does the gray wire fire?) or air box/filter. (By the way the filter is brand new) so I tightned up the wing nuts/bolts on the bottom and I didn't make it 100 yds when it started acting up again. Loosened the box again and the problems went away. The filter looks clean and is not gas soaked or anything like that. I don't know where the filter came from as I bought a different air box, with filter on ebay and installed the package. It's all most got to be the filter creating too much back pressure on the carbs causing them to run overly rich doesn't it? Or is there some difference with the air box it self? By the way I did not hook up the vent lines off the carbs so we can rule that out for now. Got back to the garage and 1,2 &3 plugs were white (too lean) but I will get into that again. #4 did look a little black from fouling but the header pipe was red hot (used the spray bottle) to check. I am so wound I might not sleep tonight knowing that there is a light at the end of the tunnel !!!! Till tonight I thought the light might be a fast moving train!!

[Ken Talbot]

How about the snorkel coming out of the top of the airbox - is it kinked or somehow blocked? I seem to recall somebody found a dead mouse in their snorkel one time, and was quite amazed at the difference a clear air passage made to the way their bike ran. JAT......

[fxrer]

Sounds like you are very close to solving the problem. Based on your observations, I would certainly conclude that it has to be restricted air flow into the carbs. Try removing the filter, then tighten up the airbox. If it runs good (as with the box loose), then it’s the filter. If not, has to be flow into the box, like through the snorkel, as Ken suggests.

[dewibp]

I removed the filter and it still runs great at 4,000 rpm and above so I am going shopping for a filter! Interesting thing is the filter shows absoultely no dirt! It does smell gassy so maybe the gas is restricting the air flow? Top Cat, thanks for helping keep my sanity thru this ass kicking problem! I'm like a proud pa pa and about ready to post some pictures of my "creation". Woops I need to wait till my chrome side covers and valve cover is back.

[LoserShoes]

Do youself a favor and get a K&N.

Steve

[John]

If you don't wan to spend the money on a K&N, then try a Uni brand filter. They are a foam filter, and they can be cleaned and reused. The part number is NU 2244, and it costs about $20. You will need to also purchase the oil and the cleaner for it, but they will last for quite a while.

[dewibp]

Would there be a chance a local auto parts store would have a K&N? I would just as soon go with this style as mess around with an oil type filter. If not an auto parts store, who else handles them?

[John]

K&N has to be oiled also. It is a type of paper vs. the foam of the Uni. I wouldn't think an auto parts store would have a bike filter. Try a bike shop, or go online to their web site.

[DiverRay]

Some auto parts store will order the K&N for you. If you go to the same part store, ask them.
Ray

[dewibp]

Well I can at least ride the "creation" now but does not run as good as I would like it to and one problem is still bugging me. Presently #1, #2 and #3 plugs are staying white and obviously not fouling. Got to this point by going back thru carbs making sure all jets were back to the stock jets and changed the float levels to 25 mm from 27. As long as the bottom of the filter box and filter is out it runs extemly well above 4,000 rpm and will not foul plugs. Still having another problem with #4 plug not burning clean but for now I can live with that. The problem is anytime I put the bottom air box on (with out filter) I am back to fouling plugs again. The last time I even pulled the entire air box off and even though my eye sight is not what it used to be I can still see clearly thru the air box snorkel? I now need to take the time to see if the seat could possibly be flating the snorkel? Or could I have the wrong air box on and that, somehow, is causing the problem?

[sermn8ter]

What kind of oil do you put on the filter and how much

I bought a UNI but it didn't have any instructions on oiling it.

[TopCatGr58]

You can buy K&N or generic filter oil from Yamaha, local bike shop. Usually spray it on all over the filter, and then squeeze it to wring out the excess. Ride, then repeat cleaning and oiling every few months or so, depending on how dusty an area you drive in!
T.C.