Any suggestions on what to do when the hex drive starts to round off in the plug. Can't free it up to check fluid level. This also happened a few months ago on middle drive but I was able to get a vise grip on it. Not enough lip to grab on this one! Thanks
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final drive plug problem
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plug
I recommend putting some abrasive compound (like valve lapping compound into the allen hole and then using a hand impact driver to loosen the plug.
I don't know how I'd get anything apart on these bikes without the impact driver.
There's a photo of one near the bottom of this page:
https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index...category=tools
Tere are inexpensive and they work great.Walt
80 XS11s - "Landshark"
79 XS11s
03 Valkyrie
80 XS Midnight Special - Freebee 1
78 Honda CB125C - Freebee 2
81 Suzuki 850L - Freebee 3
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Now go to a nut and bolt supply shop or a hardware store and buy a new plug, Use thread thread tape or pipe dope on the threads to prevent oil seeping around the threads and you won't have to put the 'Gorrilla tight' on the plug when retighening.
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I posted on this back in May, and there are many earlier threads on this subject, i.e., hard to remove final and middle plugs. I found a hex head automobile replacement plug at Advance Auto parts that works fine, with a little modification. Go here to see the plug.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...&threadid=6996Rick
'80 SG
'88 FXR
'66 Spitfire MK II
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Washers?
See where Ken mentioned putting on fresh washers on the plug but neither my final gear or rear drive unit plugs ever had washers on them since I've owned the bike...does everyone else have washers? are they metal, plastic or fiber?
Bruce
perplexedBruce Doucette
Phone #1 902 827 3217
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I have developed a fondness to using nylon washers, although I havent used them on the middle gear drain plug yet. You don't have to torque them so much to seal, they do not melt (haven't melted on the crank case oil plug or filler plugs on middle and final gear cases), and they are much easier to get that plug out later!
Originally posted by pggg
Sparkplug washer fits good.Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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I replaced my stripped out hex heads with some metric oil plug replacements with a raised six-point hex, so I can use a socket on it. I had to grind off a little of the flange around the final drive plug to get it to fit. I'll send pics if you'd like..."Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."
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Bruce, have you looked really close at your middle and final drive filler plugs? With good light and magnification? I've seen those crush washers get so flattened you'd swear thay were part of the plug itself. Even with my fairly recent progressive prescription, I couldn't make out whether one of the plugs on SWMBO's still had a crush washer or not. Turned out it did, but it was so flat it was useless. Good thing I was changing out sparkplugs at the same time so had a ready supply of new washers.Ken Talbot
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I used the allen wrench extended with a cheater bar and a hefty clamp with vise-grips. Turned both at the same time and it popped free. Take the bottom of the airbox off before you ever try to wrench on it and you'll have more room to work with.
I replaced the one on my old 80g with an OEM part.
Ben1985 Yamaha VMX12n "Max X" - Stock
1982 Honda XL500r "Big Red" - Stump Puller. Unknown mileage.
1974-78 Honda XL350 hybrid - The thumper that revs. Unknown miles.
1974 Suzuki TC/TS125 hybrid. Trials with trail gear. Invaluable. Unknown miles.
1971 Honda CL350. For Dad. Newtronic Electronic Ign. Reliable. Unknown miles.
Formerly:
1982 XS650
1980 XS1100g
1979 XS1100sf
1978 XS1100e donor
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