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Anybody ever notice in these oil threads how so many people use so many different types and viscosities of oil and nobody seems to have an oil related problem? That would seem to indicate to me that you really can't go wrong using any type of oil, and that people who "swear" by any oil probably would not have had any worse experiences with failures or wear if they had chosen any number of other oils. Most of these testimonials seem to be simply a parroting back of whatever marketing hype appealed most.
Oh yeah? Go ahead and fill up your crankcase with Mobil 1 synthetic and will try and see if we can identify the blues song that you will be singing!
Originally posted by MacMcMacmac Anybody ever notice in these oil threads how so many people use so many different types and viscosities of oil and nobody seems to have an oil related problem? That would seem to indicate to me that you really can't go wrong using any type of oil, and that people who "swear" by any oil probably would not have had any worse experiences with failures or wear if they had chosen any number of other oils. Most of these testimonials seem to be simply a parroting back of whatever marketing hype appealed most.
Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
I've used whatever 98cent/liter oil I can get, for 30 years, and never thought about it.
I usually use the best all around oil grade there is, 15w-40 severe service, low-ash if I can get it, or even better, synthetic.
But brand makes no difference.
Problem is, most people using synthetic don't know WHY they use it, and still change thier oil every 5000kms (3000miles).
When I use synthetic I change it every 20-25,000kms! I just change the filter every 5000kms.
That is where synthetic's forte is.
I don't use synthetic in the bike, because my bike sits outside all winter and may collect condensation, so I have to change it every spring. Since I don't get 20-25,000kms most summers, it's pointless using synthetic.
I use rottella in both my bikes. No issues. I also use it in "others" cars when they ask me to do oil changes for them.
My truck I use Amsoil with their fancy bypass filter. I change my oil every 20 - 30k. Usually still looks clean and new until 5k. I have also up sized my regular filter and change that half way through.
Lucas oil treatment I've seen mentioned. That is some thick stuff. Once upon a time I was running that 90/10 mix in a truck that had a bad knock. Got 10k out of that motor, including a 10 mile trip with no oil at all after one of the cooler lines blew out. I don't use it in the bike.
1979 xs1100 Special -
Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power
Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.
Originally posted by fredintoon
Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
Does anyone use or tried Brad Penn racing oil? http://www.bradpennracing.com/
I'm thinking about using it next oil change since Shell Rotella T has reduced it's zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, a.k.a. ZDDP, to meet federal regulations.
15w-40w synthetic...NO Moly...Not Energy Conserving Oil...usually from Wally's World last time it was Rotella...it was cheap but cant remember now how much it was....bought it in 1 gal. container...never any problems
Originally posted by Montreux_Blue Does anyone use or tried Brad Penn racing oil? http://www.bradpennracing.com/
I'm thinking about using it next oil change since Shell Rotella T has reduced it's zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, a.k.a. ZDDP, to meet federal regulations.
Hmmm looks quite good to me but have no idea...where would I even find it?Perhaps next oil changr I'll look for it...Green Oil? Hey TC you gotta see this!!!
i can't beleive all the oil debating. there is good scientific info on amsoil being the best out there!
there are independant studies to show this. it wipped the poo out of every other oil out there including mobil one and royal purple which is pretty pricey!
the lab did a study called the ball bearing test and then checked the scratches on the bearings after different amounts miles
also you should not switch back from synthetic to regular because your gaskets will start leaking. due to the smaller molecule of synth oil . i can attest to this i switched back in the 300 zx i had and i got alot of blowby. and a couple of leaks.
also during the ball bearing test they ran the amsoil up to 25,000 miles and there was no significant wear. this is why it's cost effective because you don't change it anywhere near as much. the problem is people don't take faith in scientific studies that are proven and they think they must change the oil ever 3000 miles.???
it's been beaten into our heads from mechanics. for instance my wife's honda element... the factory book said to run the oild for 10,000 miles between changes. yet jiffy lube says no you should do it at 3k. who is right the people who make the cars or the people who want to get money for oil changes.
i am sorry but it's hard to ignore cold hard science.
use synth and have never had a slip problem.
interestingly enough. toyota did a bullitin on the 97-02 camry. unfortuanitly i missed the recall by several months because they "did not know i owned the car" because i didn't go into a toyota dealership and have it registered after i bought it. any way the cam pully's whipp the oil and cause premature failure. they did a breakdown test on the oil and found that in the after draining the oil at 2k miles the oil was = to oil that was 8k miles in other vehicles. my engine blew at 198,000 miles. and many others are as well. my mom's 86 camry had 260,000 miles when she traded it. never rebuilt never smoked and it still was a zippy little car.
of course my two cents don't mean anything except to me... but i do work for toyota as a quality tech. and we deal with oil, mostly nd8 oil. it has a funny smell to it. and it eats up plastic in a bad way!!!!! we have had to replace numerous digital trq wrench's because after a year the plastic crumbles. even our dessicater shelves cracked where the oil spilled on it!
sorry for the rant! i love this site you guys are great...!!!
" She'll make point five past lightspeed. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself. "
79 xs11 standard
xs pods, Kerker 4-1, zrx1200r carbs mikesxs coils 35k voltz of power!!!
8mm msd wires
tkat fork brace...
Fox shocks...
mikes650 front fender
led's gallore...
renthal bars
gold valve emulators
vmax tensioner
Rifle fairing
there is good scientific info on amsoil being the best out there!
The only problem with this is that everyone has "Good scientific info" as to why their brand of oil is better than everyone else's.
the factory book said to run the oild for 10,000 miles between changes.
Our car has an oil sensor and tells us when to change it. Not sure if it measures viscosity somehow, or how much pressure it takes to push the oil through the filter (Takes more as the filter gets dirty), but we usually get between 10-12k between oil changes.
On an air cooled, high revving bike that uses the oil for the clutches?? I wouldn't go much past 3k. It's just not worth the risk to me.
Regardless of brand preference.... just make sure you keep some oil in the motor. If you notice the oil is getting pretty black.. change it regardless of miles on it.
Tod
Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
Our car has an oil sensor and tells us when to change it. Not sure if it measures viscosity somehow, or how much pressure it takes to push the oil through the filter (Takes more as the filter gets dirty), but we usually get between 10-12k between oil changes.
Those sensors use a combination of mileage, RPMs, hours spent running, etc. to determine when you should change the oil. It has nothing to do with the actual condition of the oil.
1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
I'm looking to buy some Castrol GTX 20w50 is this oil just Car oil or does it say for motorcycles on the bottle? Does walmart sell it
No need to look for "motorcycle oil". Castrol GTX is my personal choice. It's the same stuff my dad put in his car while I was growing up. I remember seeing the metal cans with the spout he had to shove into the top to open it up... Oh, and yes, it's available at Walmart. That's where I get it anyway.
1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
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