Who Uses Synthetic

[MAXIMAN]

How many of you guys use Synthetic oil and how long have you been using it? I'd like to get a little poll info so we can see if synthetics really cause a problem with wet clutches and starter clutches on an 11.

After ya post the poll let us know how many miles you've used whatever you use.

And please shoot straight here. I know defending your oil type can kinda get like cheering for your favorite team.

Thanks guys

[MAXIMAN]

I have used synthetics with no observed problems. However as many of you know recently the clutch on Zilla started slipping after about 5000 miles with M1 for AIr Cooled engines.

After I pulled the clutch it was obvious the springs were way weak. However like TC mentioned the synth may have caused the problem to show up earlier.

I've never had problems using synth before...but there's always a first time...

Strange...I couldn't even vote in my own poll!

[2fast]

I have recently switched to using Rotella 15-40 made for deisel engines. Chemically, it is supposed to be very close to the formulation for bikes. It is also a very reasonably priced oil. I made this decision after reading this article on oil technology. I have used car oil in the past, and have experienced clutch slippage at upper rpm areas. Some synthetics may be fine, but I can't really justify the cost. I would rather run good dino oil, and change it more frequently. Read the article, it will help you decide.

all about oil

[MAXIMAN]

I've thought about using Rotella as well. I've a friend that switched to it when his gasoline truck started using oil...about1 quart every 1500 milels. He said the Rotella stopped the usage. He also said the first few times he changed the Rotella his oil looked pretty dirty but after he'd done 4 or 5 changes with the Rotella his oil looked much cleaner between changes than with whatever he used before.

I understand Rotella helps stop carbon deposits somehow. Is it ashless?

[Ken Talbot]

Nothing but good old Castrol GTX 20w50 for my fleet. Cost is reasonable when I buy it by the case from Costco, and I can always find one if we need one when SWMBO and I are travelling in the summer. It's not the synthetics I would watch out for in particular, but rather, any oil with friction modifiers. That's my story and I'm sticking to it...

[cruiser]

I'll get on the Castrol bandwagon too, however I'm running 20w50.
Only put 6,000 on my xj1100 but do ride it hard at times.

Put in a clutch this winter but with 26,000 figured it was time.

No matter what you use, the most important thing to do is change the darn stuff.
I'm not a big fan of synthetics because too many owners seem to extend the change time and forget about changing filters between changes.
It's the dirt that'll kill the beast.

Sorry for drifting away from the primary subject a bit

[GNEPIG]

.. im throwin in with the casterol gtx 20w50 crowd, i change the oil every 2000 miles
im hard on these bikes i mean i whip them like they are bitches and they have never left me on the side of the road
.. i live near tampa and its hot here most of the time

say no to synthetic

[fabriqueprecis]

Castrol GTX 20W50

When I garaged my XS11 20 years ago I saved a case of Castrol 20W50 with it. I still have it in the old cardboard quarts with the metal lids that you have to puncture with an oil spout (got the spout too). Think the oil is still good? I would think so.

[Pat Kelly]

Since my 1st bike in 1977 I've primarily used Castrol (10w40 in winter and 20w50 in summer). I've never had an oil related problem. This includes the 10 years in Phoenix.
The one time I bought Mobil 1 for my bike (when it 1st came out) I had all 5 quarts fall off the bike and split open on the way home.
Wife used a synth blend in her 96 Virago with no problems.

[Deni]

I used Castrol GTX back in the early 80's in a '81 850 special and had clutch slippage problems. I've started using Amsoil 20w50 only a month ago or so in my 1979F (bought last fall, unknown history), so we'll see if I have to come back and eat my words. But, believe me, I will if problems develop. I am using Amsoil because it is pretty much pure oil without viscosity index improvers and other bad stuff. It has no friction modifiers, it has high levels of zinc and phosphorus (no bad molybdenum), is SF rated, is JASO MA rated for wet clutches, is WAY more resistant to thermal and viscosity breakdown than dino oils. It's not opinion, but fact, that this oil is better OIL than dino oils, and will without doubt protect your engine and transmission better than dino oils that contain tar, paraffin, wax, asphalt, ash, etc. The only question is whether with these old bikes, are you willing to correct problems that may arise because you are using better, slipperier oil? If my clutch starts slipping (doesn't yet at 18K miles), then I'll rebuild it with new plates and stronger springs. If gaskets leak, then it's because they are too old and need replaced or re-torqued. It's not the oil's fault. I'd rather correct these problems, and know my engine and transmission gears and bearings are protected as well as possible. I'll also bet that the stop and go driving like I will do in summer breaks down the dino oil VII's pretty quickly, and you are left with the base oil (10 or 20 weight). Not good, but if you change it religiously, probably not much of a problem. I will change oil and filter once in the fall and will not exceed 3,000 mi/yr. The article that 2fast referred to is what convinced me to use a pure synthetic. So, we'll see how many gaskets and clutches I have to replace before I'm willing to eat my words. The extra cost ($20) is not an issue.

[MAXIMAN]

fabriqueprecis

The oil is probably fine. But I wouldn't use it. In cans huh? That's awesome. I bet you could sell it on eBay as "antique" oil!

Deni

I read the oil article link you posted. Good stuff. Mobil 1 for Aie Cooled (V-Twins) is also JASO MA rated. And like you....money isn't the issue. If it actually extends engine life - I WANT IT! The question is: Does it?

Seems like most folks a re using Castrol...especially the GTX variety.

[Czekus21]

I've read the links on this forum about the difference of oils, the pros and cons of synthetics verses regular oils. Then I've done my own tests. ( actually useing the oil in my bike ). All of the viscocities were 20-50.
Castrol,; Noisy engine, valves rattlin, slight clutch slippage under hard acceleration.
Yamaha lube,; Same thing, Not so much slippage in the clutch.
Kawa-chem,; Not so noisy engine, Still a little bit of clutch slippage but liveable.
Rotella "T",; very noisy engine.
Havoline,; Will never use agian. Noisy engine, Oil needed changed after only about 1000 miles.
Currentlly trying out Valvoline's new motorcycle oil. Engine is quiet, and no clutch slippage. Still clean after about 200 miles since change.
I will be trying out Amsoil next.
After that will be Royal Purple.

[Pat Kelly]

If oil stays 'clean' too long it's not doing it's job removing combustion deposits. It is supposed to carry these deposits to the oil filter where they are trapped and discarded with the filter.

Oil level should also drop with engine use. The oil lubricates the cylinder walls where some (XStremely tiny amount) inevitably should end up in the combustion chamber, burned, and passed out the exhaust.

I know everyone already knows this but I'm bored .

[Snow]

I've used Castrol 20w50, Mobil 1 15w50, and more recently Rotella. I used Castrol for the longest time with no trouble until my clutch started slipping at high rpm. I then replaced the clutch and went to Mobil 1 and didn't have any clutch slippage. About 2 weeks later my starter clutch began not engaging.

I then went back to Castrol and went through about 2 changes with not much luck in regards to the starter clutch.

Next I tried Rotella...I believe I am still on that first change and the starter clutch problems have gone away. Though I might actually be on the second batch as I changed oil when I got my TC oil filter adapter...can't remember if that is when I switched to Rotella.

[7911special]

I have had the best luck with castrol 20w50, i have tried yamalube and no diff, I used mobil 1 and the clutch started slippin alot worse at 7 grand with one person, where it was only noticeacle with 2 peope on. I switched back to yamalube just because it is only 10 mins away compared to 40 mins to run and get castrol....got rid of most slippage in clutch but i think i might have glazed it as hard as i ride on it. no probs ever with starter (knock on wood)

I have tried castrol, rotella, Mobil 1's diesel oil (Delvo or Delvac) and a few others, and to be honest i have found Castrol to keep the best pressure throughout the long run, the diesel oils all seem cleaner between changes, i and trying to find castrols diesel oil but have only found one place and it isnt cheap not to mention it has to be shipped. BTW all that info i have done with my inline six truck under very hard abuse I try to rev like the bike but then i remem it is a long stroke motor