Who Uses Synthetic

[John]

Originally posted by HobbyMan
When did they come out with that? I have never heard of it.

The Motorcycle Shop on Hwy 10 carries it.

[HobbyMan]

Is it really any different? I am not going to switch or anything, I just want to know why they decided to open a new line of oils.

[jetmechmarty]

I was using synthetic without any trouble. The price caused me to extend drain time. I use ROTELLA now. It seems to work well, is readily available, and inexpensive.

[AlanB]

Hi Guys,

I tried synthetic a couple of years ago, (Mobil 1) and the starter clutch would not grip; bike was bump- start only!

Changed back to mineral, and starter has worked fine ever since.

Only had it in 3days, 'cos I couldn't go anywhere. An expensive mistake.

AlanB

[jetmechmarty]

Mobil 1 motorcycle oil worked great for me. I couldn't tell it from anything else. The clutch worked just fine. I just don't like the price.

[Snow]

Originally posted by AlanB
I tried synthetic a couple of years ago, (Mobil 1) and the starter clutch would not grip; bike was bump- start only! Changed back to mineral, and starter has worked fine ever since.

I did the same thing...but starter clutch never fully healed...this the engine work I'm doing now. Nearly 30 year old starter clutch + synthetic oil = lots of swearing

[AlanB]

Hi Snow,

I dropped it back out the day after I put it in, so I was lucky enough to get away with it.
AlanB

[trbig]

Just thought I'd add this in..

These bikes are supposed to be dang near indestructable on the bottom ends. Since I bought this bike, I have used Rotella exclusively in it. After a couple thousand miles last year (I change it at @ 1000 miles usually) I was riding a little hard... 80-110 at times headed to an XS rally, when it developed a LOUD knock. After it cooled down, the knock wasn't as bad and I continued the ride, but ended up going home early and limped it home. It had spun a crank bearing and ruined the crank AND the motor case. SO... I thought it was maybe something was just due to happen with the motor. I got my spare motor and went to John's house and we tore it open and checked it over... the bearings looked great! This was in October of last year. Again... Rotella oil. By March of this year, it was knocking again.. back to John's house to tear it down, and the bearings were crap! I didn't have 4,000 miles on the motor.
So.. you guys can do what you want, and I am sure someone on here has gotten 100,000 miles out of Rotella... but it won't come near my bike again. I am trying out the Castrol now and hope to have some better luck.

Tod

[MAXIMAN]

Originally posted by trbig
Just thought I'd add this in..

I am sure someone on here has gotten 100,000 miles out of Rotella... but it won't come near my bike again. I am trying out the Castrol now and hope to have some better luck.

Tod

I doubt it's the oil. Rotella meets spec as does most any motor oil of the proper weight range.

I'm not sure how hard you ride. While these bikes are indeed tought they are not indestructible. One thing that is really tough on these old cranks is over-revving. Since they have no rev limiter...and they do not take well to anything much past redline.

Stuck carb floats will trash a crank in a New York minute. I've had it happen to me on a ZL1000. Once fuel gets into the crank and compromises the motor oil it could be Katy Bar The Door for your bottom end. This happens more often than not and most operators never realize it.

I'm not saying this fits you but were you absolutely certain of the bike's history?

Also...the first time you tore it down did you mic the crank and the journals to see if they were in spec? What did your oil pump look like? Did you check the manual to see how to determine if it was operating properly?

Just things to think about.

[Crazcnuk]

I don't know how many times I've seen this same discussion, but here goes, again

Rotella is just like any other diesel oil. You can get them from any of the major manufacturers. The most common is 15W-40, but it comes in other grades as well.

If you look at the specs of any severe service oil, of which Rotella is one, you will see that they pass more specifications for more types of vehicles than any other oil. These oils are generally low-ash, meaning they produce less carbon, and they are more durable than your standard oils, to meet Military severe service specifications.

15W40 oil was originally developed for the U.S. Military and fleet services so that these companies could stock one general purpose oil. Often 15W-40 was used in the rear diff, std trannies and the engine, all at the same time.

I use this is any engine I have that I am not using synthetic in.

Synthetic oils are used, not so much because they lube better, although they do, marginally, but so that you do not have to change the oil as often.

Theoretically, if you could filter the oil properly and add the additives back in when needed, you could run the same synthetic oil in your car or bike virtually for the life of the vehicle.

Synthetics were originally dsesigned for 20,000+rpm, high temp Jet turbines. Gas engines can't really break down the base oil.

If you change your bike oil every spring, like I do, synthetic is not worth it. In my cars I use synthetic and change it every 20-25,000kms. I change the filter every 5000kms.

If you want the most performance, ie: the best lubrication, use a blend of 3/4 standard oil w/ 1/4 synthetic. This comes from hundreds of hours on a Dyno with a race car. The size of the 2 molecules is complimentary.

NEVER use the bottled semi-synthetics. If you look at them they never specify how much synthetic is actually in them and it can vary a lot.

In my bikes I use Canadian Tire ( read: generic) brand 15w-40 severe duty (diesel) oils. I put over 90,000kms on a 750 Virago and over 80,000kms on My shadow 1100, and 10's of thousands on all the other bikes I have ever owned, and never had a problem with the engines, or clutches, in any of them. (Notable exceptions; my GT750, that came with the seal problem, and the XS which had nothing to do with oil.)

[trbig]

These are two completely different motors with two completely different oil pumps. The only thing in common was the cylinders and head... along with Rotella oil.
I didn't over-rev the first one, but this second one I did once.. but the knock didn't develop until a couple months after that. I do ride pretty hard at times, but rarely do over 6500 or so. I have, but it's pretty rare.
We didn't MIC the crank or journals in this motor when we took it apart, because the whole bottom end looked almost new... including the bearings. All the gears and everything looked really good, so we fixed the tranny gears and put it back together.

It may not be the oil, but after two lubrication related break downs from two different engines using Rotella exclusively... it was enough to steer me away from it.

Tod

[MAXIMAN]

You can steer clear of Rotella...that's your choice...I'm just telling you it ...odds are...it isn't the oil. Like Canuk said Rotella exceeds the specs for more engines than any motorcycle oil. If you had been using some wacked out off brand from a 7-11 like Valu-Star 10W-30...it probably couldn't be blamed on the oil because most all motor oil nowadays meets the basic specs laid out by

Another thought...just because the crank and journals "looked" good doesn't mean they were.I can't begin to tell you how many cylinders, crankshafts, camshafts pump barrels, plungers, etc...that "looked good" in the field ... but once in the shop... they were mic'd and found to be no where near spec tolerance.

Just the ramblings of a mindless XSive!

[motorman]

motor oil

I have now ridden this XS1100SF for 4 years, about 5000 miles a year, using Amsoil, 20w50, air cooled motorcycle oil. After changing from Pennzoil I have experienced a slight increase in fuel milage, about 2mpg, with no increase in engine noise or adverse results with the starter or the clutch. Steve.

[snowdog51]

oil

syn. amsoil 20-50 motorcycle oil. i ride like i stoled it.
as ever bill

[fredintoon]

Canadian Tire house brand 20W50 4-stroke motorcycle oil. Right next to the Castrol 20W50 4-stroke motorcycle oil and half the price.
Fred Hill, S'toon.