Who Uses Synthetic

[xj11john]

MikefromMT,

was it just one seal that started leaking on the xj or several, and was it worth it to have to change the/these seals?

[MikeFromMT]

The offending/offensive seals were on my 1982 Honda dirt bike (4 stroke) unlike every other Honda out there this one required engine disassembly the other seal was on my 1992 Bronco rear axel given the choice I'd rather have continued to run the dino oil and save the $$$ on repair, but I kind of abused both vehicles and liked the protection afforded with the Synthetic, both leaks occured within a week of changing over, and I ran the Honda DRY it literaly seized up out in the woods, I let it cool then replaced the oil in the crank case and rode it home and get this, at disassembly there was NO DAMAGE to the engine! I now run the Amsoil in everything I own with an engine (I may have hesitated to do this with my XJ but since the previous owner did I figured I was safe) I haven't noticed any (real) leakage from my XJ except for some very minor seepage near the rocker covers but that was there when I got it.

[Street_Rat78]

Castrol all the way...

I use Castrol GTX 20w50 as well.

[BLUEJEEPLAB]

From the replies I see here, Rotella seems to be a good choice. My Special seems to be a little rough on shifting (particularly on 3 and 4) and it sounds as if Rotella might be a good choice. According to the guy I bought it from, it's had Suzuki 20W50 most of it's life. What are thoughts about an engine flush before the switch?

[xs650mike]

I just recently started using Rotella T which costs $1.99/qt. at K-mart. I've got about 1200 miles on since the switch. Oil consumption has dropped to less than half what it had been. My bike's got 48,600 miles on it. I didn't flush the engine, just changed the oil hot.

[BLUEJEEPLAB]

Mike,

Did you notice any improvement in the gear box performance?

[xs650mike]

I've noticed slightly smoother shifting. XS11s are all pretty clunky shifters from what I gather. Upshifts need to be deliberate and can't be hurried on my bike. Downshifts I can do very quickly. I've found that I can upshift quickly only if I don't use the clutch but from hearing all the reports of gearbox malfunction I'm reluctant to do this on a regular basis. There is a false neutral between every gear if my foot is in the least bit lazy. On all of my other bikes I always shift clutchless but I can't seem to downshift my 11 this way. I'm going to try Amsoil my next oil change and see if shifting improves.

[rickmcdougald]

Castrol GTX 20w50/Rotella

The PO used Castrol GTX 20w50.
I haven't yet run my XJ's engine. I've torn her down and replaced the rubber seals. I also did the "2nd gear thing".
She's got new clutch friction disks and NO residual oil inside the engine. I'm thinking about Rotella 'cause we've used it in aircraft, it's available, and it sounds like a good choice (from what you all have said).
RLMcD

[HobbyMan]

I currently use Castrol 20w50 I havn't had any problems with it ever. Of course, I have never torn the engine down. I like it becuase not all of my bikes have oil coolers and the Texas traffic can be brutal.

[jeffe]

I have used 20w50 Castrol in my bikes for years. I had right at 100k miles on my 650 Seca with no problems. I currently use it in my 78E. Before the last change I used Seafoam gas additive in the crank case per directions. I rode the bike easily for about 5 miles. I was amazed at how dark it made the oil, I would assume it was from all the gunk it broke lose. The best thing was the clutch was much smoother. Not as grabby.

[edgo]

I used Rotella then tried Valvoline Four Stroke. The Valvoline made shifts smoother and the engine less noisey. I am going to stick with Valvoline. The difference was dramatic.

Ed

[DeanR]

Ditto what edgo said.

[webbcraft2150]

Castrol GTX for cars and bikes. Castrol HD straight weights for the truck and boat. Put close to 90k hard miles on Kaw 1100 on GTX diet. XS pushing 66k on GTX. Truck @300,000 miles on Castrol HD diet (gas engine, 2nd one). Had GLC Mazda that was at 265k on orginial engine and GTX diet when it was murdered by a duelly Ford.

Gotta love these oil threads

[MacMcMacmac]

Don't know about the Eleven, but my starter clutch went south almost immediately after putting AmsOil 0W40 in my XJ Turbo. The label stated it was a proper replacement for 10W40, so I don't think the weight was the issue.

Did a motor pull (I think Yamaha put a starter clutch on the ground then built the bike around it) and found no wear on the starter clutch parts. Replaced them with new bits, along with the camchain and guides and a set of rings and have had no problems since. Considering it has made it 25 years on dino oil, and that the engine is probably one of Yam's hotter running aircooled units (800C for the turbo!) I think synthetic is a waste, frankly. The engine was spotless inside, even with 50,000 miles (80,000kms) on it. The piston crowns and combustion chamber was another matter....

15W40 diesel oil is what I have used for many years without any problems.

[Snow]

Recently changed opinion

For a few years now I've been a big Rotella fan...before that I used Castrol GTX 20w50... from anecdotal evidence about bearings, I have changed my mind and am going to run Castrol GTX from now on in my old-sealed/old starter clutched XS11.

After break-in I plan on running either Golden Spectro or Mobil1 in my other XS11 that has new seals, starter clutch, and clutch.

Rotella did seem to make my valve noise louder than GTX and I see no benefit in running Rotella over GTX (both have high ZDDP content and no energy saving additives).

Basically what I'm saying is if you have at least one of the following, don't run Synthetic unless you like problems:
1. Original starter clutch (not rebuilt yet)
2. Old or worn clutch (synthetic will turn old but fine into worn very quickly)
3. Old crank seals.

If those 3 do not apply to you, synthetics without energy conserving additives are fine.