Clutch Slip

[MAXIMAN]

I took the wife for a spin tonight and my clutch slipped. I thought it might be the extra 110 lbs on the back. However it's never dome it before with her on back. I took it out by myself and it still slipped.

Yes I'm still running Mobil 1. I've put about 5000 miles on Zilla using Mobil 1 with no problems. So I dunno why that would do it now.

The bike has the original clutch....but it only has 11,800 miles of pretty easy ridin. Would a stock clutch be toast after 12,000 miles? Or could age (23 years) effect clutch performance?

I'm considering a Barnett Kevlar clutch with heavy duty springs. But first I'm gonna change oil tommorrow and really whack it to see if it still slips.

Thanks

[MAXIMAN]

TC wrote:

It has been suggested that if the clutches and springs are not within spec or very close to going out of spec that the synth oil will aggravate conditions and contribute to slippage. A few others have stated that if the parts are fairly new, that they haven't had any problems with slippage with synths. However, as they wear, you could experience slippage problems much sooner using full synth that the blends or straight dino juice!?

That makes sense. I've used changed from dino to synth in several bikes over the years and not noticed any slippage. However if the clutch is getting closer to weak the aggrevating circumstance could accelerate failure.

I'm changing to Castrol GTX 20w-50 TOMMORROW. I'll let ya know what happens. I haven't driven the bike more than 10 miles since it started slipping so I doubt it hurt it. Besides it would only slip when rolling the throttle hard from about 4000 rpm up.

[grabberblue]

My clutch was slipping at full throttle after about 5500 rpm, I changed to new springs and it helped a lot but still slipped a little after about 7000 rpm. It was much better but I think I will need new discs. I changed to synth a few weeks later and did not notice any worse slipping.

[MAXIMAN]

Yeah I don't think it's the synth.

I drained the M1 and changed to Castrol 20w-50 and drove it about 10 miles real easy to make sure the clutch plates were good and saturated with the new oil. Then I "aired" it out. Nothing changed...still slips like dawg on ice.


Time to call Barnett.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Maximan,

I hate to ask the obvious, but have you redone your clutch adjustment at the engine. I had rebuilt my bike a few years ago, and in the second year on a Rally ride to NY, mine started slipping, had to pull into a gas station and do the adjustment in the parking lot! Worked fine after that. Due to wear in the plates, the lever and rod can loose it's clearance and get too tight!? Also, are you sure your cable is free sliding, not binding/sticking?
T.C.

[MAXIMAN]

I'll double check it ...TC. But it felt right.

So I don't have to look at the service manual...how do you adjust it down below. My 750 Maxim had a splined shaft down at the clutch cover that you could adjust to get more leverage with the clutch lever.

This XJ11 appears to have no adjustment on the lever behind the first clutch cover (little round flat plate). The lever just sets on a shaft with a square "keyed"(-right term?) end. There is a nut that holds it on and a philips head indention end the end of the shaft if I remember right.

[MAXIMAN]

TC...don't bother...I found the maintainence thread. I'll try to adjust it. If that fails I'll let ya know.

Thanks

Cody

[MAXIMAN]

Well I adjusted it...just to be sure.

It definitely HELPED! It's not slipping as easily...but still slipping.

Instead of just shimming springs...I think I'm gonna replace the whole clutch (friction - steel- and springs with heavy). I'm gonna be doing 2 or 3 LONG road trips this summer and the last thing I need 1200 miles from home is clutch trouble somewhere between Hinkley, Utah and Ely, Nevada.

Thanks

Cody

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Maximan,

As for the steels, you may not need to replace them at all, unless they are warped. They don't really wear much compared to the fiber friction plates! Main thing is to get them cleaned up, degummed, and even possibly buff/scruff them a little with a very fine piece of emory cloth. The most improvement you'll get will be with the new fiber plates, and the new springs.

If you haven't already seen it, you might want to peruse thru the tech tips in the Tranny Fix section, 1st and 2nd gear fix, I have several photos of the clutch, star plate and recommendations on how to put it in without breaking off the tips!! Good Luck!
T.C.

[GNEPIG]

..i had the clutch slipping problem on a couple these bikes also... the first time i went all out and bought all new steels, frictions and shimmed the springs, it worked pretty good for about 1600 miles then started slipping again... i noticed when i put them in that the new ones didnt look much better than the old ones ...so i asked an old guy who worked on yamies for a long time and he told me that not only do the plates wear thinner but the clutch basket does also then he said dont worry about it just through in a extra steel plate that will take up the extra space... it worked great , i've been doing that every since.. no more new clutches
..of course you have to change the adjustment at the clutch housing ..and if you put steel disc in the wrong place it will give you a strange feeling clutch but all you have to do is move it over some and it will feel normal...its been a couple of beers ago since the last time i've done this[it works that good]... cant remember exactly where i put the extra one
so you will have to experiment

money saved about $130.
good luck

[MAXIMAN]

TC

I read your 2nd gear fix. Good stuff!

Wow...I didn't realize the "real" Zilla was a Maxim too!

Hey...how long did that dremmel fix last?

[MAXIMAN]

There again...foot in mouth. I see the pics were for a XJ11. The real Zilla is not an XJ...sorry.