I am trying to put a set of floor boards and foreward controls on my 78' E Xs1100.The problem I am having is with the bolt for the front motor mount, after installing the brackets the bolt is to short. The factory bolt is 295mm long x 10mm diam. I will need a bolt about 325mm x 10mm. That is one big bolt. I can not find anything even close to that. To make things worse the bolt is stamped grade "8". I thought about threaded rod but that would only be mild steel not a hardened bolt. What ideas can you give me Thanks for the help!
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Xs1100 Floor boards & foreward controls
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if you are talking about the upper front mount
with 1 long bolt to both sides
you could try putting in 2 shorter bolts
like the lower front mounts
just keep an eye out for flexhttp://home.securespeed.us/~xswilly/
78E main ride, since birth the "good"
78E Parts, the "bad" fixing up now
78E Parts the "ugly" maybe next year
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When I put my case guards on the XJ, I replaced the metric top long bolt with an SAE bolt. Found one that was right length and diameter at the local hardware store.Jerry Fields
'82 XJ 'Sojourn'
'06 Concours
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Re: Xs1100 Floor boards & foreward controls
I have been using an "all thread" rod for about 4 years on one of my xs11's. I meant to find a longer bolt on ebay, but it seems that they only are provided with NOS case guards. I am sure you can get one from a bolts and fasteners specialist dealer. Gee, I hope my engine doesn't fall out!!! :-/
Originally posted by excess11
I thought about threaded rod but that would only be mild steel not a hardened bolt. What ideas can you give me Thanks for the help!Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Here are some threaded rods and flange nuts from a Machine Shop Industrial Supply company catalog that I have, called MSC Direct . I've ordered some tools and rods/pipes from them with ease!
I would venture that they are a bit stronger than the basic rods you'd find in your local hardware store!?
The prices I'm quoting are from their 2001/2002 catalog, but I'm sure they aren't far off! I don't know all of the steel types and descriptions, perhaps some machinists can comment on the types and strengths of these materials.
HTH, T.C.
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Alloy Steel threaded rod-NC=national coarse thread
4140B-7 Chormium molybdenum alloy good hardness high strength meets ASTM A-193 B7 Specs
3/8"-16 diam/thread 3foot length
#06056741 $3.23ea
Stainless Steel 304(18-8) and 316 types
for 3/8"-16 3foot length
listed respectively 304 and 316
#06052146 $3.99ea #64815814 $6.22ea
Flange nuts:
Ledloy Heat treated cyanide black oxide finish
#82428038 $1.92ea
303 Stainless Steel Certified ISO 9001
#06818827 $4.23eaT. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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I'll say this about the threaded rods. If you go this route, cut it long enough to put a washer and two nuts on each side. Unlike the OEM solid bolt, You do not have to slide the whole thing through to remove case guard bars, you simply undo the end nuts. I don't think that the threaded portion in the middle does the engine mount rubber ANY good, although I haven't witnessed any damage, yet (never had to remove it to see).
Originally posted by TopCatGr58
Here are some threaded rodsSkids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Maybe you could find some very thin bushings to place over the threads where they pass through the rubber mounts. That would protect them from damage caused by the threads chewing into the rubber due to vibration. Now that I think of it, don't the mounts have a metal bushing in them already?
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