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**TopCatGr58** · 08-17-2004, 07:16 AM

Hey there Stan,

I didn't mean to make you move your thread, just that you stood a better chance of someone seeing it here in the Tech Talk section. Sorry, forgot to mention, I'm still running my OEM Pilot jets, partly because they were so corroded in place, tore up the heads trying, decided to leave them, and last year I had the pilot screws adjusted to 3.5 turns out, and they were TOO RICH, didn't show up at sea level, but got to altitude during rally in NC., and they bogged up terribly, only had essentially WOT and NOT!!

Turned them back to 2.5 turns, and they worked like a charm, both at sea level and altitude. So my vote is to leave the pilot jets stock and just adjust then screws as needed!

For those who didn't read my other reply, I suggested going to 115 mains at most!

HTH?
T.C.

**sheeres** · 08-17-2004, 07:50 AM

80 Xs11sg Carb Mods Jets ?

By backing the mains out 2.5 turns, how is this best accomplished? Shims? My concern is that they would vibrate farther out or in if they are just turned out 2.5 turns.

BTW. I used to be totally ignorant of carbs, but am learning a lot about them from this site!!

**chevy45412001** · 08-17-2004, 08:17 AM

mains

you did mean piolets didn't ya? Mains do not turn in or out.

**TopCatGr58** · 08-17-2004, 11:25 AM

Yes Chevy and Stan,

I had mentioned the Pilot Screws in the paragraph above and didn't make any other reference to the mains, so I didn't think I made an "ambiguous antecedent", something I remembered from English class..

On your 80Sg, Stan, the Pilot Screws(not the jets) are adjustable screws on the TOP of the carb bodies, right next to the manifold mounting, however yours may still be hidden under little brass seals/caps!? You have to drill those to remove them, then you can have access to the adjustable screws beneath them.

The Pilot and Main jets do just screw down snug, on the underside of the carbs, as you have learned.

"Soon, grasshopper, you will be ready!"

TC.

**stal871** · 08-17-2004, 02:11 PM

sheeres,

your idle screws will not "jiggle" in and out because they are under tension of a tiny spring that wraps around them. when cleaning, be careful not to lose these little buggers when turning the carbs upside-down in the palm of your hand and shaking them out. (tip: shake out one pilot screw at a time when doing thorough cleaning)

also, when seating the idle screws to begin counting your turns out, do not overtighten! they have a very tiny and fragile point on the end that can get stuck to the aluminum of the carb-body and break off upon your attemp to break them free on your first back-turn. when that happens, you are a very long way from a smoothe starting and smoothe idling bike.

stal87

**Bob Falter** · 08-18-2004, 04:20 AM

sheeres,

I read all of that stuff on the individual air filters and increasing the main jet size. Then I bought the Emgo pods figuring that I would have to go to larger main jets and get more power. Didn’t work that way. They were more restrictive than the stock air box. My bike, which ran a little rich before I made the change, ran way too rich with the pods. I would have had to go to smaller main jets. If my pods will fit your bike I’ll sell them to you cheap.

While the stock box is a pain to get on, or off, and restricts access to the carbs it does provide quite a bit of air with a K&N air filter (put on by PO, don’t know what the stock filter was like). I think the Japs put a lot of thought into the design of that box. There is essentially four velocity stacks built into it and I wouldn’t be surprised if the length and size of the intake snorkel, that goes up under the set, isn’t design to actually provide a small increase in pressure (above atmospheric) just as an intake valve opens.

Still hate working with it.

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80 Xs11sg Carb Mods Jets ?

80 Xs11sg Carb Mods Jets ?

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