Top End Tick

[ratbyk]

R&R Cylinder Head

Kev, never personally had to remove my cylinder head yet. (touch wood) But after following this Forum since the beginning have never heard any one complain about having to pull the engine to get the head off. I'm sure that it is doable.
Further, noticed in your photo of your work in progress that the exhaust cam is still in the engine. If you have turned the engine over very far with that cam stationary it is possible that you tipped a valve or two. Have a look at the position of the lobes on the exhaust cam. If any of them are in the wide open position that valve is now questionable.
Ken/Sooke

[sidecarKev]

Good. Just want to keep my options open in case I end up tearing off that head.

So my plan is as follows:
Remove other cam
Take exhaust lifter/retainer/springs out on #3
Hope for damage on one of those
No damage will mean head removal
Inspect head
Rebuild or replace with used head
new cam chain
new gaskets
new valve seals

[sidecarKev]

Don't worry Ken. I made sure to end up with #3 at TDC when I removed the cam. Then I locked down the crank so it wouldn't move when I shot the cylinder with air. I had the move the ex cam just a tiny bit to keep it from leaking past the valve.

C'mon, luck is on my side.
Yeah right.

[sidecarKev]

Tonite I pulled the other cam. Pulled the lifter and found the springs to be in fine shape.

Change in plan. I'm putting it back together to see what happens. I already got the springs, lifters, and retainers back in. Putting those retainers back in was like brain surgery. Really hard doing some of these things by yourself.

So I guess I'll see if rearranging a few things changes anything. If not the head WILL be coming off.

[ratbyk]

Reassembly

Kev, only you know. You were the only one there, BUT! From your photo last night of the work in progress, I noticed that the exhaust cam was still on the engine. This would mean that at least one of the exhaust valves was in an open position. If you turned the engine completely over through at least one complete stroke as you brought #3 piston to TDC you may have tipped that exhaust valve and will be taking the head off anyways. Sorry to bring this up. I was trying to avoid mentioning thing. Kinda of hoping that you would decide to exchange the head and I could keep my mouth shut. Anyway, as I said, only you know, you were the only one there.
It helps if you put a little grease on the valve lock area of the valve stem to hold the locks in place as you try and reassemble.
Ken/Sooke

[sidecarKev]

Ken, like I said earlier I planned ahead and made sure #3 was in the TDC when I pulled that cam. That also meant that both valves on #3 were closed. Took out the sprocket bolt that would have not been accessible when at #3 TDC first. Did I do something wrong by doing it this way? Never had to move anything after I pulled that cam. Well I did turn the cam a liitle to seal up the exhaust just a bit.

Has anyone actually tipped a valve on an XS11? It seems like there is quite a bit of space in there. When at TDC the valves look like they drop way past what would be normal travel. I didn't get real technical in my thinking I'm just guessing here.

[ratbyk]

Tipped Valve

If you did not have to turn the crank more than a couple of degrees while the exhaust cam was in place you are likely OK.
You could also look at the exhaust cam. If none of the lobes are straight down meaning that valve is wide open, again you should be OK.
Yes, if you turn over an XS engine without the cams traveling in phase you will bend all of the valves in the engine that are in the wide open position. The bend is so small you cannot see it with the naked eye. It still will leak compression.
I think if as you say, you did not turn the crank more than a tiny bit you will be OK.
Ken/Sooke

[srq68]

Well, I didn't think it was possible to remove the valve springs without taking the head off, this proves me wrong! What tool do you use to push the springs down besides the cutout peice of pipe, not a C clamp obviously...

[ratbyk]

srq68, it is all covered in this file in a previous post. Scan back until you find the longest post in this file. It is all covered there.
Have fun, get a "TRUSTED HELPER".
Ken/Sooke

[pgg]

Kev, undo a dozen or so nuts and the head's off. 10 minute job. Ignore the manual - the head gasket's reusable. If you've only got a clattering bucket, swap 3's buckets to another cylinder and if you're lucky (you MUST get lucky soon) - the clack will be history.

[dragxs11]

You might want to read this Kev

I stumbled on to something tonight that might be quite helpful. Go to the Yamaha Parts website. If you don't know it, just do a google search for Yamaha parts. Once you get in there select motorcycle, and then your bike. Then scroll down until you see the fifth Technical Bulliten. It reads that some customers were complaining about a tick between 3 and 4000 rpm. It was caused by predetonation, or some such thing, and does not harm the motor.
Matt

[ratbyk]

Top End Tick

I like pgg's suggestion. It has strong possibilities. In fact you would not have to take the head off at all. Just swap some buckets around. If you have recorded the valve clearances for each of your valves you would not have to take the head off at all. Just swap buckets with valves using the same shim thickness's.
Don't like drags11 suggestion. Just my personal opinion, but do not like detonation or predetonation of any kind. I have lost too many pistons and to many races over the years because of detonation.


Yipeee, I just made my 500 th post.
Have a good day and a change of luck.
Ken/Sooke

[dragxs11]

It wasn't my suggestion, it was Yamaha's

[ratbyk]

Dragxs11

Please, no offence.
Ken/Sooke

[dragxs11]

none taken, ken