Been a while, guys! I'm having a bogging issue...

[ERM83]

So (I dunno why the font is so big...not on my computer, which I need to fix), my 80 SG is having a bogging issue at take off/ low RPM. Sometimes it does it during idle as well...comes and goes. Sort of sounds like it isn't getting enough power / spark...but when it happens starting out in 1st gear, I'll pull the clutch and give it a rev, then let the clutch out, and she's good. The carbs have just been cleaned, and everything is adjusted correctly. I checked the wires on the pulsar coils...no breaks in the wire, though I was CONVINCED it was that issue as I've had that before, and the symptoms are VERY similar. I cleaned the harness connectors for the pulsar coils, and it seemed to make things work better, then BAM...it all came back within two quick rides. It will ride fine somedays after warmup, but then when I go to start it when leaving whatever place I ride to (usually only sits for an hour or two), symptoms come right back. I should mention that when I took it to work last night, it was fine. Left work this morning, choked it, started it, and it sounded a bit strange....and the lights didn't come on right away like usual when the engine start...there was a click, and THEN everything popped on. It was weird and alarming. By the time I got back to my house, it was jerking / sputtering pretty bad at low RPM (I try to keep'er quiet for the neighbors). Sounds really weak at full choke most of the time as well. Did the carb boot spray test...all good there. I wanted to ask you all for advice before I go tearing things apart!

Second quick question, since the search option won't work on my phone: what kind of bulbs do the speedo / tach use?? My tach is out...might as well replace all of the bulbs while I'm in there. Should have just done that while replacing my speedo cable...I hit a freakin' deer (YEP...A DAMN DEER) a few months back...de-STROYED my speedo cable, AND whole headlight assembly the I had JUST BOUGHT.

Just a testament to what tanks these bikes are:

I hit the deer at about 35mph (came out of NOWHERE...LITERALLY), and it ran right through it. The bike didn't even flinch...Didn't lay it down at all. That was scary as hell!!

Thanks for your help, everyone!

Eric

[bikerphil]

The speedo and tach should use a GE 53 bulb.
Did you take the ignition plate clamps off the P/U coil wires and try to stretch them? They should not stretch, that would mean a break in the wire(s). I would make 100% sure no breaks.

[soccer4m]

possible causes

Hey, Erm, it sounds like a wierd issue. I can suggest a couple of things that happened to my xs, and xjs over the years,,,
1. check your ground from the battery to the frame,,,mine cracked and eventually broke, meanwhile causing wierd running problems.
2. check your vacuum hoses,,,possible cracks, splits can cause problems when warm or engine is revved up
3. the obvious,,,,really check those pickup wires,,,,stretch, wiggle, move when running, any engine running change will be the result of bad ones
4. check battery connections, pos. and neg. make sure they are clean and tight, and hope you have a new,newer battery.
Keep us informed,,,its got to be something pretty simple, just keep checking stuff,,,,these bikes are frustrating but last forever....Mike in San Diego

[xs11lover]

Hey, Erm, it sounds like a wierd issue. I can suggest a couple of things that happened to my xs, and xjs over the years,,,
1. check your ground from the battery to the frame,,,mine cracked and eventually broke, meanwhile causing wierd running problems.
2. check your vacuum hoses,,,possible cracks, splits can cause problems when warm or engine is revved up
3. the obvious,,,,really check those pickup wires,,,,stretch, wiggle, move when running, any engine running change will be the result of bad ones
4. check battery connections, pos. and neg. make sure they are clean and tight, and hope you have a new,newer battery.
Keep us informed,,,its got to be something pretty simple, just keep checking stuff,,,,these bikes are frustrating but last forever....Mike in San Diego

Yes I’d go right along with all of that, I think every one of them has happened to me. Along with clogged idle jets and clogged tank cap vent too!

[jetmechmarty]

Do the turn signals flash at idle? How about with the brake light on? At 4K RPM?

I'm wondering if your electrons aren't all getting to the coils.I'm having similar issues and I'm pretty sure I have corrosion in my wiring.

Check battery voltage. With key on, check voltage at the coils. It should be the same. If not, you have resistance somewhere you shouldn't.

And yes, I agree. Grounds are deserving of extra special attention.

[motoman]

Pertaining to a possible voltage drop, the STOP/RUN switch IS a notorious location of a voltage drop. With key on, first check voltage at battery, then check voltage at that STOP/RUN switch. Readings should both be the same. The STOP/RUN switch COMPLETES the running circuit. If voltage is any lower at ALL at that switch compared to battery voltage, those internal contacts of switch are likely the culprit as that whole internal assembly gets corroded having the brass contacts. If needing cleaned, I highly recommend unplugging, removing switch, take apart and soak ALL of switch including the switch nob in a shot-glass full of Evap-o-Rust for bout an hoer or so. Remove, wash off, blow-dry and re-assemble. Guarantee it will look like new internally AND externally. Myself, BTDT…...BTW, voltage will be back where its supposed to be....same as batt..

[skids]

Pertaining to a possible voltage drop, the STOP/RUN switch IS a notorious location of a voltage drop. With key on, first check voltage at battery, then check voltage at that STOP/RUN switch. Readings should both be the same. The STOP/RUN switch COMPLETES the running circuit. If voltage is any lower at ALL at that switch compared to battery voltage, those internal contacts of switch are likely the culprit as that whole internal assembly gets corroded having the brass contacts. If needing cleaned, I highly recommend unplugging, removing switch, take apart and soak ALL of switch including the switch nob in a shot-glass full of Evap-o-Rust for bout an hoer or so. Remove, wash off, blow-dry and re-assemble. Guarantee it will look like new internally AND externally. Myself, BTDT…...BTW, voltage will be back where its supposed to be....same as batt..

And watch out for the spring and detent ball that is so easy to run away and hide under things on your garage floor.

[ERM83]

thanks, guys...

I'm gonna go check the run/stop switch, ground wire, and the vacuum lines first right quick. the battery is only a few months old, and the carbs were JUST cleaned...so I'm hoping it's one of the three things above, because I already have the necessary things to do said fixes! will report back! *crosses fingers; gets prepared to possibly make up some new obscenities*

[ERM83]

OH - I already checked the P/U wires...they're good to go. THEY BETTER BE, because I got an unused, whole P/U rig at my local bike shop! what a score that was, lemme tell ya...

[motoman]

And watch out for the spring and detent ball that is so easy to run away and hide under things on your garage floor.

Thanks for that input Sid, forgot about that teeny spring that likes to boing outa there when opening up that switch.

[ERM83]

So, it isn't the kill switch, or the ground. Went through the carbs again because I had time / could take them inside after it got dark. Set the floats near perfect, even though they weren't far off. Vacuum areas are fine. NOW, I started it up and choked it in about 65 degree weather....stumbled even worse when I took the choke off when it was warm. Hell, it stalled a couple of times. Got a ride in, and now I have popping on decel. I guess it's time to find the electrical demon(s)...GAAAAHHHHHH....

[bikerphil]

Another failure point in the P/U wire circuit is the 4 pin connector at the TCI itself. I've seen them stretch out and not make solid contact causing intermittent signal from the pulsar coils. They can be carefully removed from the plug, cleaned and tightened. I ended up replacing the connector entirely and the problem went away. Just remembered this now, I would have mentioned it earlier.

[DiverRay]

Are the vacuum plugs on the carbs stock?? Can you rotate them?? if so, REPLACE THEM!! I've seen a LOT of carb problems caused by vacuum leaks, and most have been the "stock" plugs on the carb holders.

[skids]

You are probably needing to clean plugs that have not been firing properly so that you aren’t chasing your tail.

[jetmechmarty]

Are the vacuum plugs on the carbs stock?? Can you rotate them?? if so, REPLACE THEM!! I've seen a LOT of carb problems caused by vacuum leaks, and most have been the "stock" plugs on the carb holders.

Do this first. It's easy.