What do you guys recommend on these as not to round these off down the line? Closed end wrench or sockets? No problems getting off or on just trying to preventive. Thanks
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Oil drain plug and filter bolt
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Concerning the oil filter bolt: Good quality 6 point socket and if you have any doubts, grind the rim of the socket to get rid of any rounded portion from the manufacturer. If you don't doubt that it come loose, no grinding needed. People tend to overtighten these things. It is the 2 o-rings that make it seal! Never use a 12 point or an open end wrench on it, at least that is my advice...Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Thanks. I’m usually tightening them up hand tight then a little turn with wrench. The. If it leaks which it’s done only once tighten a little more. Rather it leak a little and tighten a bit more than stripped. I’ve read the posts79 XS11SF
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Regarding the drain bolt: Yes, they are easy to strip while tightening. My advice to prevent that is to do away with the metal washer and use a nylon washer (14 mm?) They are durable and can stand the heat. They don't stick like metal does. It seals well and you can let off a little on the torque.Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Originally posted by dbmb0416 View PostI’ll remember that. By the way what’s everyone’s schedule for changes? 3 months or 3k miles?Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Originally posted by dbmb0416 View PostI’ll remember that. By the way what’s everyone’s schedule for changes? 3 months or 3k miles?1979 XS1100F "Roxy" (my first bike ) - '91 Suzuki GSX1100 Fairing, BMW bags, Cheap ABS Trunk, aftermarket cruiser seat, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Heavy Duty folding kickstart, XS11 Special signals and gauges, Blade Fuse Conversion, Dynacoil Greens w/ ballast bypass, SS brake lines
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