Redonk's build and learning!

[DiverRay]

If you have the carbs cleaned, then ride it like you stole it for another 200 miles, and change the engine oil again. You SHOULD see the oil use drop to almost nil.
For grips, go to a local shop and see what fits you best. Any 7/8" grip set should work. To install them, use hairspray to wet the inside of the grip and slide it on. When it dries the grips stay in place.

[redonkulos366]

My new tires arrived yesterday... I ended up going with the Bridgestone battleaxe bt45s....i will let you guys know how they hold up.... now that I will have the tires off i plan on swapping out the rotors also ... What else should I be checking while they are off??? Someone said grease the zerker but I'm not sure what that ment ... your help is greatly appreciated!!!

[mschor]

How are your forks?

[DiverRay]

Someone said grease the zerker but I'm not sure what that ment ...

Look at the left side of the swingarm. Near the 4 bolts that hold the final drive on you should see a grease fitting, also known as a zerk fitting. With a manual grease gun, give it about 15 pumps to load it up with grease.
BUT, the better idea is pull the 4 bolts while the rear tire is off and spread some molly grease, or high pressure grease, onto the splines and put the final drive back on. Takes about 20 minutes and then you KNOW you have the grease in the proper location.

[redonkulos366]

i will defiantly take the final off and grease it,,, thank you


the front forks seem fine no leaks.... i probably should change the oil tho... thank you as well!

[TopCatGr58]

With the rims off, you want to check the bearings for proper smooth operation. Stick your finger into the bearing and put a little sideways pressure and rotate/twist your finger and feel how the bearings roll. They should be smooth, if they feel notchy/bumpy, then the bearings are suspect and you will want to replace them.

The LEFT REAR wheel bearing is a double wide design, and you can regrease it. Even though it's not available from Yamaha anymore, it's still available from bearing houses, eBay. It's a NA5904 Needle Bearing ONLY, do not get any variation that uses combined ball/needles!

Aside from drive shaft to final drive splines, also clean up the Wheel Drive hub splines and the Final Drive to wheel splines, regrease, also clean the large square edged O-ring that seals the rim/hub with the final drive, again apply fresh clean grease there also.

T.C.

[redonkulos366]

Help!!I just did a compression test 3 out of the 4 cylinders are 150 psi the last one is 90.... does that mean rebuild or will it seat itself after a while ?

[redonkulos366]

I poured a tsp of oil in to see if it's the rings or the valves and it went up to 170psi

[skids]

Soooo, I assume that you held the throttle open during the tests (should have). Personally, rebuilding an engine is not appealing. I would tune it, ride it, and watch the oil and fouling of the spark plug. If it oil fouls, you might try a hotter plug like EKG BP6-ES (instead of BP7-ES).

[redonkulos366]

Yes I did hold it open for all 4 cylinders.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Donk,

Okay, oil raising the pressure indicates the rings. But it could be just that the rings are STUCK against the piston and not applying enough pressure against the cylinder. Could also be that the cylinder may have a little flash rust in it. When a bike sits, invariably 1 cylinder or 2 are open to the AIR, either carb side or exhaust side, but the carb side is shorter path for MOIST AIR to get in thru the throat of the carb into the cylinder past an open valve, and thus rust.

SO....like was said, running the bike can help RESEAT the rings. IF they are stuck due to gum/varnish, then putting in some Marvel Mystery Oil into the oil and then running the bike for several hundred miles. Againt monitor your oil level. Also remember, these are performance engines, don't be afraid to run them up to 7K as often as you like. Also you want to be sure to take a long enough ride to get the engine up to full normal operating temperatures and then continue hopefully for at least an hour at a time.

Then after several hundred miles, recheck the compression, Or you can recheck it after just 100 miles, and every 100 miles afterwards if you want to see IF it's increasing SLOWLY. We've had many folks with engines with low comps across several cylinders, and after doing this stuff, they came back up to normal levels.

T.C.

[skids]

Soooo, I assume that you held the throttle open during the tests (should have). Personally, rebuilding an engine is not appealing. I would tune it, ride it, and watch the oil and fouling of the spark plug. If it oil fouls, you might try a hotter plug like EKG BP6-ES (instead of BP7-ES).

Uh, I meant NGK, not EKG.

[TopCatGr58]

Uh, I meant NGK, not EKG.

Hey Skids,

That's okay, it just shows you've really got your HEART into helping others!

T.C.

[redonkulos366]

Good news friends and family ... I dumped a **** ton of mmo in that cylinder and let it sit for a few days..... boom 150 psi ... now on to installing this back tire .... this grommet on the rear caliper brace is mangled so I need to replace it but it seems to be obsolete.... 1J7-25374-00-00 SPACER,TORQ.STOP. ..... also how tight do I need to put the rear axlenut on there is no way I can get a torque wrench on it with the long mufflers and if I go too tight the wheel won't spin ??

[motoman]

Good news friends and family ... I dumped a **** ton of mmo in that cylinder and let it sit for a few days..... boom 150 psi ... now on to installing this back tire .... this grommet on the rear caliper brace is mangled so I need to replace it but it seems to be obsolete.... 1J7-25374-00-00 SPACER,TORQ.STOP. ..... also how tight do I need to put the rear axlenut on there is no way I can get a torque wrench on it with the long mufflers and if I go too tight the wheel won't spin ??

Sounds like your missing one of the spacers that pinch against the bearing inner races holding inner race stationary. I'd seriously check and see what's going on there, and wouldn't ride it till that issue is resolved!