Running rich

[TopCatGr58]

Hey again,

Okay, you've got fairly lean pilot jets, no sharing tunnel, yet the bike starts WITHOUT the choke/enrichener engaged. SO speaking of enrichener, did you take THEM out while cleaning the carbs to ensure that the rubber end of the plunger is sealing against the carb body in the choke chamber?!You'll have to separate the bodies to be able to access them IIRC. Also be careful taking the ROD out of carb #2, there's a spring and ball bearing that allows the plunger rod to have DETENT positions with the indents in the rod, and those parts will go flying if you're not ready to catch them when you pull the rod. IF the plungers are not sealing well they could allow an overly rich condition ALL of the time! J.A.T.

T.C.

[skids]

Hey again,

Also be careful taking the ROD out of carb #2, there's a spring and ball bearing that allows the plunger rod to have DETENT positions with the indents in the rod, and those parts will go flying if you're not ready to catch them when you pull the rod.

T.C.

There are two of those spring/ball/detent locations for the "choke." You have to unscrew the set screws to be able to slide out the rod, so you will find out exactly where they are.

I suspect you will be adjusting the mixture screws and rebalancing vacuum (synch) for the idle circuit. PS, be careful not adjust the idle screws too tight because the tips can get stuck!

[BLOWCLVL]

Hey again,

Okay, you've got fairly lean pilot jets, no sharing tunnel, yet the bike starts WITHOUT the choke/enrichener engaged. SO speaking of enrichener, did you take THEM out while cleaning the carbs to ensure that the rubber end of the plunger is sealing against the carb body in the choke chamber?!You'll have to separate the bodies to be able to access them IIRC. Also be careful taking the ROD out of carb #2, there's a spring and ball bearing that allows the plunger rod to have DETENT positions with the indents in the rod, and those parts will go flying if you're not ready to catch them when you pull the rod. IF the plungers are not sealing well they could allow an overly rich condition ALL of the time! J.A.T.

T.C.

Lol yep did that and the ball went flying lol. But all parts were good

[BLOWCLVL]

Ok I finally received my smaller jets. Will install them soon and post my results.

[BLOWCLVL]

Ok so I have installed the new jets.
Here are some pics of the carbs




What I set my floats to.


Where I did the measurement. Both sides of the floats are set the same.


How the carbs mount to the air intake.


What the plugs looked like with the #45 pilot jets and 110 Main Jets.

[BLOWCLVL]

And after a 10km ride. No difference still losses power above 4500 rpm. Here is the plugs after. #1 on the left and#4 on the right.

[Bonz]

Your bike is not consuming a high quantity of oil that could be making the plugs black, correct? If the oil control rings are not doing their job the bike can use a lot of oil in a short time but not smoke out the tailpipe.

And my other thought goes back to the header and the air box being both custom I said that earlier. Still might be at play here.

[DiverRay]

Pull carbs again, put in a vise or something so they are almost level and upright. Plug in a fuel line from a remote tank, located about 1' elevation above the carbs, and wait for 10 minutes. Look and see if there is any leaking.
Now, I'm at work so I can't go back and read the thread, but the valves ARE adjusted correctly? What happens if you run with the air filter not installed?
Just trying to come up with something.....

[BLOWCLVL]

Your bike is not consuming a high quantity of oil that could be making the plugs black, correct? If the oil control rings are not doing their job the bike can use a lot of oil in a short time but not smoke out the tailpipe.

And my other thought goes back to the header and the air box being both custom I said that earlier. Still might be at play here.

Oil level hasn't changed since I changed it. The header is no differentl then the stock header. All I did was add in some baffles.

[BLOWCLVL]

Pull carbs again, put in a vise or something so they are almost level and upright. Plug in a fuel line from a remote tank, located about 1' elevation above the carbs, and wait for 10 minutes. Look and see if there is any leaking.
Now, I'm at work so I can't go back and read the thread, but the valves ARE adjusted correctly? What happens if you run with the air filter not installed?
Just trying to come up with something.....

I don't have the fittings to go in the bowl to attach hose. Runs the same with the filter and intake off the bike.

I have not checked the valves.

[motoman]

By your anolog mic., you NEED to correct that setting to .905(23mm) for float setting. Even though those ARE the later model carbs, 80models DIDN'T have the fixed bowl drain with seating screw in side of float bowls. Initial setting prior to running setting of idle mixture screws is gonna be 2turns out from lightly seated. The pilot jets you have chose to use ARE to rich! They NEED to be 42.5's. That step up from stock size of 42.5's makes a huge difference in amount of fuel drawn in. At this point, after getting the initial correct pilot jets(42.5) installed, and it will idle once warmed up, let it idle and back out any one of four mixture screws a couple more turns. Whatever one you first chose to adjust, start back in slowly. When sound changes or a ever so slight drop in idle occurs, back mixture screw out 1/8 turn and no more than 1/4 turn max.
Now do the other three mixture screws the same way. May have to adjust idle(1100rpm) several times over the course of setting idle mixtures. NOW the carb sync can be done, but NOT before setting idle mixtures. BTW, those pilot jets that are 45's are DEFINITELY suspect due to the blackened plugs......as is the current float setting you've chosen at this point.

[BLOWCLVL]

By your anolog mic., you NEED to correct that setting to .905(23mm) for float setting. Even though those ARE the later model carbs, 80models DIDN'T have the fixed bowl drain with seating screw in side of float bowls. Initial setting prior to running setting of idle mixture screws is gonna be 2turns out from lightly seated. The pilot jets you have chose to use ARE to rich! They NEED to be 42.5's. That step up from stock size of 42.5's makes a huge difference in amount of fuel drawn in. At this point, after getting the initial correct pilot jets(42.5) installed, and it will idle once warmed up, let it idle and back out any one of four mixture screws a couple more turns. Whatever one you first chose to adjust, start back in slowly. When sound changes or a ever so slight drop in idle occurs, back mixture screw out 1/8 turn and no more than 1/4 turn max.
Now do the other three mixture screws the same way. May have to adjust idle(1100rpm) several times over the course of setting idle mixtures. NOW the carb sync can be done, but NOT before setting idle mixtures. BTW, those pilot jets that are 45's are DEFINITELY suspect due to the blackened plugs......as is the current float setting you've chosen at this point.

I don't have 45s in for pilots. I have 40s with 100 mains.
I have already started with the mixture screws at 2.5 turns out and slowly turned in to how you described. The idle increases all the way until the mixture screws are seated with no drop in rpm. And the floats are at .905

[motoman]

Okay Blow, how it's behaving associated with those mixture screws, tells me it's drawing vacuum past the threaded mixture screws. What normally causes your pilot adjustment being array is the teeny sealing O-rings on the idle mixture screws. I suggest removing every one of them and have a look-see at those O-rings. Over the years, its. normal for them to either get hardened or they have teeny splits in them all the way around. Once removed, they should have the teeny thrust washer first, then the o-ring. If they are not really pliable or fractured in different places, They HAVE to be replaced in order to form a seal, or you will never be able to correctly set those mixture screws. Patience grass-hopper......just eliminating one possible scenario at a time to help put the odds a bit in your/our favor. Also, the one step to lean with those pilot jets can cause a rich cond. also......in other words, because of how carbs draw fuel(vacuum drop/venture velocity), a too lean scenario, whether it be too small a pilot jet or too low a fuel bowl level, both can and will create a too rich scenario.

[Bonz]

By your anolog mic., you NEED to correct that setting to .905(23mm) for float setting. Even though those ARE the later model carbs, 80models DIDN'T have the fixed bowl drain with seating screw in side of float bowls. Initial setting prior to running setting of idle mixture screws is gonna be 2turns out from lightly seated. The pilot jets you have chose to use ARE to rich! They NEED to be 42.5's. That step up from stock size of 42.5's makes a huge difference in amount of fuel drawn in. At this point, after getting the initial correct pilot jets(42.5) installed, and it will idle once warmed up, let it idle and back out any one of four mixture screws a couple more turns. Whatever one you first chose to adjust, start back in slowly. When sound changes or a ever so slight drop in idle occurs, back mixture screw out 1/8 turn and no more than 1/4 turn max.
Now do the other three mixture screws the same way. May have to adjust idle(1100rpm) several times over the course of setting idle mixtures. NOW the carb sync can be done, but NOT before setting idle mixtures. BTW, those pilot jets that are 45's are DEFINITELY suspect due to the blackened plugs......as is the current float setting you've chosen at this point.

Brant his caliper looks like it is dead on at .905 inches which he confirms, and he is running #40 pilots, a size leaner than stock.

Nothing about that says he should be anywhere near the richness he has?

[BLOWCLVL]

So much info lol.