Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Steering Head Bearing Removal Tools?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Steering Head Bearing Removal Tools?

    https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...tbm=shop&spd=0

    Anybody know if any of these tools would aid me in the removal of the bearings? My boss just did his on his ZX-14, and he's confused about what all the hype is, and I told him it may not be as easy as his bike.

    I wish there was a write-up on how to do it.
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

  • #2
    i copied your heading and pasted it in the search thing none of this helps ??
    http://www.xs11.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1800491
    Seamus Ó hUrmholtaigh
    Niimi Moozhwaagan

    NOTICE: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been inconvenienced.

    Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental.


    Member of "FOXS-11" (Former Owner of XS-11)
    and SOXS
    2008 Nomad "Deja Buick'

    Comment


    • #3
      I guess I will give it a go in the Spring. I read most of those. We'll see what happens.
      1979 XS1100F
      2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

      Comment


      • #4
        google this too
        Steering Head Bearing Removal Tools xs1100
        Seamus Ó hUrmholtaigh
        Niimi Moozhwaagan

        NOTICE: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been inconvenienced.

        Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental.


        Member of "FOXS-11" (Former Owner of XS-11)
        and SOXS
        2008 Nomad "Deja Buick'

        Comment


        • #5
          Normal Tools are Enough

          Ian:

          I don't think any of those tools are necessary - they may or may not be useful.

          I think all you need is a long punch/drift and a big chisel....and a hammer....that's it.

          The top race came out easy for me. The bottom race gives folks the most trouble. Mine came out with a long punch and a little heat.

          If you can't get the bottom race out, folks cut it with a Dremel and it comes right out. It's inconsequential if you happen to score the neck a little bit.

          The other trouble spot for me (and the biggest) was getting the bottom bearing off of the tree. The trick for me was to have a big chisel to wedge it loose and walk it up.

          Putting it back together is no problem- just use the old races to drive the new ones, and find the right size pipe to drive the lower bearing.
          -Mike
          _________
          '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
          '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
          '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
          '79 XS750SF 17k miles
          '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
          '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
          '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

          Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

          Comment


          • #6
            HamJam

            Seems appropriate:

            "NOTICE: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message"
            -Mike
            _________
            '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
            '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
            '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
            '79 XS750SF 17k miles
            '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
            '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
            '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

            Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Radioguylogs View Post
              Ian:

              I don't think any of those tools are necessary - they may or may not be useful.

              I think all you need is a long punch/drift and a big chisel....and a hammer....that's it.

              The top race came out easy for me. The bottom race gives folks the most trouble. Mine came out with a long punch and a little heat.

              If you can't get the bottom race out, folks cut it with a Dremel and it comes right out. It's inconsequential if you happen to score the neck a little bit.

              The other trouble spot for me (and the biggest) was getting the bottom bearing off of the tree. The trick for me was to have a big chisel to wedge it loose and walk it up.

              Putting it back together is no problem- just use the old races to drive the new ones, and find the right size pipe to drive the lower bearing.
              My boss has the Motion Pro bearing tool to press the bearings, and he has the threaded rod and washers home-made tool to extract them. We'll see how that works.
              1979 XS1100F
              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

              Comment


              • #8
                Ian, another option if you don't have a Dremal tool with cut-off wheel to split the race, is if you have or have acess to an arc welder is to weld a bead around inside of bearing race. This shrinks the bearing race, and majority of time race will just fall out......BTDT more than once.
                81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by motoman View Post
                  Ian, another option if you don't have a Dremal tool with cut-off wheel to split the race, is if you have or have acess to an arc welder is to weld a bead around inside of bearing race. This shrinks the bearing race, and majority of time race will just fall out......BTDT more than once.
                  I have all the tools at my disposal to get it done I think. If I get stuck, I'll just find a bigger hammer
                  1979 XS1100F
                  2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    That lower race is a bitch Ian. The best method I have found is to cut the race with a dremmel tool with a cutting blade and break it. It practically falls out then.
                    Greg

                    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                    ― Albert Einstein

                    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                    The list changes.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
                      My boss has the Motion Pro bearing tool to press the bearings, and he has the threaded rod and washers home-made tool to extract them. We'll see how that works.
                      Looking forward to your report- I have more steering bearings in my not-too-distant future.
                      -Mike
                      _________
                      '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
                      '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
                      '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
                      '79 XS750SF 17k miles
                      '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
                      '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
                      '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

                      Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Like Greg said, cut 2/3 the way thru and then break it with a cold chisel, works every time.

                        You can do the same with the stem bearing after cutting off the cage and removing the ball bearings. Or a bearing splitter with some all thread and a harmonic balancer puller will remove what is left of the stem bearing.
                        2H7 (79) owned since '89
                        3H3 owned since '06

                        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Nice! I'm getting confident guys! Thank you everybody for the advice.
                          1979 XS1100F
                          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Radioguylogs View Post
                            Ian:

                            I don't think any of those tools are necessary - they may or may not be useful.

                            I think all you need is a long punch/drift and a big chisel....and a hammer....that's it.

                            The top race came out easy for me. The bottom race gives folks the most trouble. Mine came out with a long punch and a little heat.

                            If you can't get the bottom race out, folks cut it with a Dremel and it comes right out. It's inconsequential if you happen to score the neck a little bit.

                            The other trouble spot for me (and the biggest) was getting the bottom bearing off of the tree. The trick for me was to have a big chisel to wedge it loose and walk it up.

                            Putting it back together is no problem- just use the old races to drive the new ones, and find the right size pipe to drive the lower bearing.
                            +1 here! Mine came out pretty well with just a punch and hammer from the neck. The tree gave me a bit of trouble so I just cut it off and was done with it. Don't worry about it.
                            Nathan
                            KD9ARL

                            μολὼν λαβέ

                            1978 XS1100E
                            K&N Filter
                            #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                            OEM Exhaust
                            ATK Fork Brace
                            LED Dash lights
                            Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                            Green Monster Coils
                            SS Brake Lines
                            Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                            In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                            Theodore Roosevelt

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by motoman View Post
                              Ian, another option if you don't have a Dremal tool with cut-off wheel to split the race, is if you have or have acess to an arc welder is to weld a bead around inside of bearing race. This shrinks the bearing race, and majority of time race will just fall out......BTDT more than once.
                              I used to work at a mine and witnessed the removal of a very large bearing race with that method. You need to run that welding bead fairly quickly (don't stop to admire progress) to super heat the race.
                              Skids (Sid Hansen)

                              Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X