More questions

[ratbyk]

Idle Mixture

1/2 turn out could be right if your float level was a little high. Or, some where through the bikes life someone turned the idle mixture screws in to tight and enlarged the metering hole that the tip of the idle mixture screw adjusts. If it idles right so that you are happy put it out of your head and go ride. Worry about the little things next winter when all you can do on it is putter in the garage.
Ken/Sooke

[skids]

Re: Wow

Older carbs pull fuel into the pilot jets through the main jet. I found that when I turned the mixture screws more than 3 turns out (Jardine 4-1 pipes), I still couldn't get any yellow color in the colortune window. I went to bigger mains and noticed that the mixture screws could be set to closer to stock settings. YMMV! The converse is true as well, big main jets can cause the need for the mixture screw settings to be set tighter. I am not saying that this is the way to adjust the pilot circuit, it is just an observation. The mixture screws are simply a way to compensate for pilot jet sizes that are not right on the money, I think.

Originally posted by teck_mountain
Thanks for the help regarding my head light. The wire colors faded enought that a couple of the green look brown. Any way I was able to get things fixed.

Had it out for a run around the block. Wow, more power and pep than I remember. Still a little wonkie but I it may be related to low fuel. Will try again tomorrow.

I initially set the carbs at 1.25 turns from a slightly seated positon. However, I'm finding that the bike seems to run better at a half turn out. can this be right?

[teck_mountain]

Low RPM idle miss

Well all seems to be okay but I have this low end idle miss. Get into mid range and I'm gone and not looking back. I think I many have a couple of pinched gas lines so I'm going to replace fix them tomorrow. If I still get the low idle miss what should i do or look for?

[ratbyk]

Low Speed Miss

If you have lots of zoom zoom up high then the pinched fuel lines are not your problem.
If your low speed miss/breakdown is at part throttle I would blame the carbs.
If the miss is under load (cranking open the throttle) at low speed check out the plug caps/wires/plugs themselves. At low speed under full throttle compression pressures go away up and the amount of voltage required to fire the plugs goes away up as well. Under load in this situation if there is a breakdown in the secondary ignition system the spark will find another way to ground rather than jumping the plug gap.
Ken/Sooke

[teck_mountain]

couple of more questions

Well I got rid of the fuel stravation problem but the I still have the low idle miss or sluggish feel when starting out. This is more of a problem under load rather than standing still. However, I am observing the idle go up to 2000 rpm drop to 1000 rpm. When I touch the gas it shoots back up to 2000 stays there for a while then back down to 1000 rpms. I've rechecked the plugs, they have that black fluffy carbon???

Not that the above is problem enough but my oil/tail light stays on. I have lots of oil any ideas.


Teck

[skids]

Re: couple of more questions

I don't know how many of the plugs are sooty, but the inability of holding a stabil idle might come from one or more of the carbs running lean. This can be caused by the carbs needing to be synchronized, the idle screws (top of each carb) needing adjusted, floats still not right, or and/or partially plugged idle circuit. See, if one carb is too lean, others may be too rich just to get the thing to idle, then when you open the throttle a little, the leaner ones may be running a little better and the richer ones a little worse, causing the idle to "hunt" for an equalibrium. At least that is what I think happens...

Originally posted by teck_mountain
However, I am observing the idle go up to 2000 rpm drop to 1000 rpm. When I touch the gas it shoots back up to 2000 stays there for a while then back down to 1000 rpms. I've rechecked the plugs, they have that black fluffy carbon???
Teck

[teck_mountain]

idle problem

Thanks skids

All four Carbs are sooty to the same degree. Should I go back to step #1 with them, looking at floot level, Then idle screws or what

[ratbyk]

Engine Idle

Suggest that you do float level first. Set them all at 25 mm so that they are starting from the same base line. Then set the idle mixture screws. Then synchronize. Touch up idle mixture one more time to correct any deviation from the synchronization and one final touch up of the synchronizing.
Should be good to go. If not than assuming all internal circuits in the carbs are clean and functioning properly you would have to make jetting changes.
Ken/Sooke

[teck_mountain]

Carb

Thanks heading out to the garage to start. Any suggestion as to why the oil light is staying on?

[CA.XSer]

teck

Did you rebuild carbs?

[teck_mountain]

Carbs

Yes. I bought the rebuild kit off of ebay. Noticed that the main Jet is 137 instead of 137.5. The floats were way out. So I set them to 25 mm and check the level by setting up a jig. #3 carb was way out so set it to match the rest. It had to be set at 24. Ran a little better but still having problem with running with a load. Increased the factory set screws, ( can never remember what they are called to 1.25 and up to 2 full turns got worse. Will set them back to 1/2 tomorrow..

Any suggestions?

Teck

[ratbyk]

Idle

When set the idle mixture make sure that the engine is up to full operating temps. If you set before up to temp you will be a bit rich at idle when fully warmed up.
Ken/Sooke

[CA.XSer]

Teck

The kits I have seen on ebay are K & L kits. The pilot jets in these kits have 8 holes instead of 6, which will make the bike run rich at idle and low rpm. You will never be able to correct the mixture with adjustment if the pilots have 8 holes in then. Don't ask how I know.

[teck_mountain]

Getting better

Thanks for the advice CA.XSer. I put in the old pilot jets, the ones with six instead of 8 holes. The Bike is beginnig to run a bit better. Still having difficulty with going to high idle then dropping to low idle as then stalling out. With load she still sluggish until I get to mid range.

Seem to run hotter than usual. However this could be do the the oversize pistons.

Any other suggestions or should I let my bike mechanic take a look at it

Once again I want to thank you all for the help. This is a great association.

Teck

[TopCatGr58]

NO!!!!! Don't let another person touch it!
YOU ARE THE MECHANIC!!!!

Okay, OEM pilot jets back in, but you had the other jets and idle screws turned out only 1/2 turn. These OEM jets are leaner, so you will need to turn the pilot screws back out to 1 or 1&1/4 turns. You've got your floats set correct so far at 25mm. The rising and falling idle sounds like a synch problem. Did you at least do the bread stick tie synch to get them eyeball close?

Get it really warmed up and then reset the main throttle plate idle screw to where it needs to be for ~1100 rpm, along with the aforementioned "synch", and see how it behaves. You're getting there, keep at it!
T.C.