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  • #61
    Idle Speed

    Tech, carb synching is on page 50-51 in my Clymer book.

    So far as the rising and falling at idle; I call this "hunting". The engine idle MIXTURE is not correct or similar on all four carburetors. As the mixture is not quite uniform the engine is hunting around trying to find a comfortable idle speed with the fuel mixture it is being provided with. Most accurate tool to set this is a "Color Tune guage". I don't own one. Was lucky enough to have access to one at PNW Rally last year. Several of us took advantage of it at that time. I know that afterwords my bike ran the smoothest it ever had. I have not gone near my carbs ever since. So afraid that I will loose the smoothness of that little synching and mixture adjustment that I do not want to mess with it. That was 12,000 kms ago and it still just purrs. I believe that the tool belonged to Denny Zander in Olympia Wash. At the same rally Steve Linderman had a bank of 4 vacuum guages that we used to synchronize our banks of carbs. All who took the time at that meet had big grins on our faces after we test road our bikes.
    So far as setting the idle mixture without vacuum guages if you have access to an accurate shop tachometer borrow it.
    Warm up the engine to full operating temperature. Remove the fuel tank and turn it around from its normal position and set it down where the seat would normally be. If necessary temporarily install longer fuel lines to connect the petcocks to the carbs. Hook up the tach and restart the engine with the petcocks on Prime. Plug off the vacuum hoses that would normally go to the petcocks. (golf tees work well). Now, noting your present idle speed slowly turn the idle mixture screw on #1 carb in slowly until engine speed starts to fall off. Now turn the same screw out slowly, idle speed should pick up again as you continue to turn engine speed will again start to fall off. Split the difference on the idle mixture screw at the highest tach reading. Go on to #2 carb and repeat your way across the bank of carbs. When finished the "hunting" sensation should be gone. If not turn each idle mixture screw in about 1/8th of a turn and try again.
    After you have the idle mixture set properly then synch the carbs. You may have to do each of these adjustments a couple of times because they both affect each other.
    Hang in there and don't burn your fingers.
    Ken/Sooke
    78E Ratbyk
    82 FT500 "lilRat"

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    • #62
      John's never gonna let me forget. Teck, I sync my carbs every few weeks with vaccuum gauges. A good way to tweak for a 'responsive' low end, is to go up one size on the pilot jets. Raising the needle one notch is another. I prefer to change the jet though.

      Comment


      • #63
        Pilots

        I also have gone from 42.5 to 45's on my pilots. Did that shortly after getting it to get away from a stutter or hesitation in the 3500 to 4200 range as I cranked it on.
        Ken/Sooke

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        • #64
          Idle proble

          Thanks for the help. Will attempt tomorrow. Did have it out for 150 km run. Other than the low ldle thing she ran well. Got a bit of a raw gas smell from time to time.

          Stay tuned
          Tim Lowe
          "Teck"
          1979 xs1100 Special

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          • #65
            One step forward and ten back

            I've got the carbs to a reasonable level but it's started blowing blue smoke during the adjustment phase. I've check compression and it's still in the mid to high 135 range for three cylinder and the fourth cylinder at or about 145.

            The oil light is on. But it has oil. I toped it up last night. Do I have an issue with my oil pressure? When I first start the bike it is fine, even begins to ride nice. after Riding a few blocks the light comes on and the smoke begins to pour out of the back end, left pipe.

            What should I do?

            A very panicy Teck
            Tim Lowe
            "Teck"
            1979 xs1100 Special

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            • #66
              Exhaust Smoke

              What weight oil is in it? Is it possibly overfull or contaminated with gas? With all of the carb problems you have had it is possible that has diluted /overfilled oil.
              Suggest the old stick trick. Take a stick and shove it down into the oil through the oil fill hole. Take a match/lighter and try and light it. If it flares or catches on fire easily it is contaminated with gasoline. If it just smokes and smolders it is oil.
              Would recommend that you put Castrol 20/50 GTX in it. If oil light still comes on you had better get an oil pressure guage and find out exactly what your pressure is. Should have a minimum of 35 hot at 3000/5 at idle. Any higher readings are a GOOD thing. If pressure is good replace the oil pressure sending unit. Located under the carbs facing up from the crankcase. Kind of round with indentations. If I remember right a 1" socket will fit it.
              Make sure that when you check your oil level through the site hole that you are on the center stand, not on the side stand.
              Ken/Sooke

              Comment


              • #67
                Oil warning light

                Okay, I will give it a try in the morning. Thanks for the advice
                Tim Lowe
                "Teck"
                1979 xs1100 Special

                Comment


                • #68
                  I would change the oil and filter, don't worry about lighting it unless you want to. I used 20W-50 as well in all my bikes. But 10W-40 is good enough. We have a tech tip about adding a mechanical oil pressure guage. If I even thought I had oil pressure problems I would have a mechanical guage on there in a heartbeat. First step fresh oil, filter.....

                  The only way I have ever heard of one of these engines blow up is oil contaminated with fuel or oil pump blockage/failure. (except the one that was in a race car)
                  Gary Granger
                  Remember, we are the caretakers of mechanical art.
                  2013 Suzuki DR650SE, 2009 Kawasaki Concours 1400, 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille Tuono

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                  • #69
                    Oil Pressure

                    You think I can find the tool to check the oil pressure in this town,..............

                    Having a lot of fun. the head to the bolt that holds on the oil filter pan is stripped clean. Need to find some type of tool to help get this off. Off to canadian tire again.

                    The oil didn't catch fire but did smell a bit of gas. Once I finish the oil change I will fire it up and see if it's any better.

                    I did turn it over with the oil sensor off and oil did come up and out. However, unsure of the pressure. Removed the oil delivery pipe made sure it was not blocked.

                    By the way is the oil pump is shot do I really have to remove the engine from the frame to get to it?
                    Tim Lowe
                    "Teck"
                    1979 xs1100 Special

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Oil Pressure

                      While you are at CTC buy an aftermarket automotive oil pressure guage. Likely less than $20,00.
                      Mount the guage part on your handle bars with a stainless steel hose clamp. Make sure that it has a 1/8" pipe thread portion to thread into where the idiot light sending unit came out from. If you want to retain your existing idiot light buy a brass fitting "T" with one male and 2 female 1/8" pipe plug sections or openings.
                      It is awkward installing it down under the carbs for lack of hand room but doable. I was able to anyway. Also as you route the oil line from the sending to the guage be extra careful that it is secure, can't be chafed through or burned through. Again, all possible. I installed one three years ago and have run trouble free since installing.
                      Ken/Sooke

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                      • #71
                        Teck, the oil pump on my 78E comes right out the bottom. Drop the oil pan, 3 bolts I think takes the pump out. Better get gaskets, though.
                        Marty in NW PA
                        Gone - 1978E - one of the first XS11 made
                        Gone - 2007A FJR - the only year of Dark Red Metallic
                        This IS my happy face.

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          cleaning oil pump

                          I want to make an assumption that the oil pump is dirty and is effecting it's function. If so, and since there is no oil in the bike at present time, is there any thing I can do to clean the pump? Some one mention running diesle fuel through it?
                          Tim Lowe
                          "Teck"
                          1979 xs1100 Special

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            Hey Teck,

                            The oil pump is easily accessed thru the bottom oil pan, no need to pull the engine, but as folks have stated, doubt it's the pump, more likely a bad pressure sensor that is causing the light to come on prematurely. Your sensor might even be cruded up with tarnish and such, so that the mechanism that is supposed to slide/be pushed under the oil pressure isn't moving far enough, and so it's causing it to make contact where it normally would to finish the electrical circuit that causes the light to come on!

                            After pulling the sensor off, spray a bunch of carb cleaner, or even soak it in a carb bath for a while, and then spray it out. Also, check the plunger inside BEFORE you clean it to see if it moves up into the device easily or very slowly/stiffly?! Worth a shot!

                            While you're at it, connect an ohmeter or continuity meter to the terminal and the base, then test for resistance, shouldn't be any, should have full continuity since there isn't any oil pressure in it, then push up on the plunger inside, and see if the ohmeter/continuity meter reads open circuit, which is what it should read when the plunger is being pushed up with oil pressure? If you can still get ohm reading with the plunger pushed all the way in, then the sender is bad....REPLACE! HTH.
                            T.C.
                            T. C. Gresham
                            81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                            79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                            History shows again and again,
                            How nature points out the folly of men!

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              oil sensor

                              I can't seem to find a plunger in side the sensor. Can you describe this a bit more for me?

                              Teck
                              Tim Lowe
                              "Teck"
                              1979 xs1100 Special

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                Hello again,

                                Here's a quote from Brian Shepley, very knowledgable:
                                If the wiring checks out OK, then it is a simple matter to unscrew the oil pressure switch. Check the part that screws into the engine, there will be a small hole in the bottom of it. Flush this out with WD40 or carb cleaner, or something similar. Occasionally a piece of crud will lodge in it and block the flow of oil to the switch. This can happen quite easily if someone doesn't perform regular oil and filter changes.
                                I actually haven't taken mine apart/off. Was just talking in general terms about a plunger/switch mechanism, and as Brian states, there is only a small hole that goes to the switch, so it probably will take a small thin piece of wire/nail to insert into the hole to reach the switch. Sorry for the confusion!
                                T.C.
                                T. C. Gresham
                                81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                                79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                                History shows again and again,
                                How nature points out the folly of men!

                                Comment

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