Clutch Springs

[johnstewart]

Hey John,

Your description sounds a little odd? I would expect the clutch to slip more once it's warmed up because the parts expand and causes the separation of the throwout rod and bearing of the star plate to get closer, and might not release completely which could cause slippage.

I thought it did seem a little odd, too, yes.

BTW, have you done the throwout rod adjustment at the ENGINE under the round clutch cover??? If it's not adjusted right, it won't fully release the clutch and will cause slippage....and as the clutch gets worn, the pressure plate moves closer to the throwout rod, and that's why it needs periodic adjusting to keep it the right distance away to ensure proper full clutch release/engagement.

Wow, you know, I don't know what the heck a throwout rod adjustment is... but I do recollect now that you mention it, that years ago when I did put in some synthetic oil and it started slipping, I did adjust the clutch somehow. Thanks, this sounds worth checking out! I think the procedure must be in the Clymer manual?

That was at least a decade ago. I forget how much futzing I've done over the years. Completely forgot about that!

[MPittma100]

Clutch

I thought it did seem a little odd, too, yes.



Wow, you know, I don't know what the heck a throwout rod adjustment is... but I do recollect now that you mention it, that years ago when I did put in some synthetic oil and it started slipping, I did adjust the clutch somehow. Thanks, this sounds worth checking out! I think the procedure must be in the Clymer manual?

That was at least a decade ago. I forget how much futzing I've done over the years. Completely forgot about that!

Clutch adjustment involves 2 procedures. The throw out rod is first. Second is the clutch lever free travel. There is motorcycle specific oil that addresses wet clutch applications. Many oil brands have that type available.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey again John,

I didn't want to be "Capt. Obvious", but thought I needed to mention that adjustment technique before you tore into the clutch cover. The OEM springs are just weak and don't hold up for very long. I had just replaced ones I had replaced several years ago, and found them to already be compressed to ~39mm. I finally got the BARNETT type and they were ~43mm long, looking forward to seeing how they feel when I finally get my Godzilla project done and back together and running! I'll be putting on new clutch cable and lever as well. So...another thing to check is whether your cable is moving easily and not binding or just moving stiffly due to dried out grease/oil and corrosion. If it's difficult to slide in the sleeve by hand, then you'll want to clean and LUBE it to get it moving free and easy, which can then better/quicker/easier release the clutch throwout rod lever when you let go of the lever so that the plates can fully engage....but if the cable is dragging, it will keep pulling/holding the lever a bit and not let it fully release which can contribute to slippage.

T.C.

[ViperRon]

Thanks TC for stepping me back. I know when I put a new clutch pack in it took me about 3 hours but I have experience and the proper tools much different from many here (sorry). I also thought the basics were handled before approaching replacement of springs. I always agree to do the primary steps till you get familiar with it and ensure you have a problem inside other than oil,,cable or adjustment before tearing in. I do stand behind once you tear in you should make sure everything is in order as there are several things that can cause a bind and create slip.
One more suggestion is these clutch cables are not all the same. Some companies make pretty little cables cheap but the material inside can go bad and cause a bind as well as snap like the one did on me on the first rally I was on. So John make sure the cable slides free even under load that cable should snap back even with weak springs in a clutch.

[johnstewart]

All good stuff, thanks, gents! When I finally get back to XS11 digging, it will be with this thread in hand.

[stoneairsoft]

This has been a good read for me as well. My clutch refuses (though I haven't much tried) to shift out of neutral. It gives both towards 1st and 2nd, but never "snaps" into the next gear, rather clicking and seeming "close" but not there. It's also on my big list of things to address with minimal knowledge.

[BA80]

Missing shift drum pin? Broken shifter return spring?

[skids]

........or could bolt clutch cover back on with NO gasket. I have a new gasket on shelf, but opted not using it. With both surfaces clean and dry, a thin,thin film of Permatex High Temp Grey worked fine. Not so much as a weep for some 9yrs. now. (snip)

I have done same. Works good. Just a thin bead on clean surfaces. Actually I use Ultra Black RTV.

[johnstewart]

Hey John,

Your description sounds a little odd? I would expect the clutch to slip more once it's warmed up because the parts expand and causes the separation of the throwout rod and bearing of the star plate to get closer, and might not release completely which could cause slippage. BTW, have you done the throwout rod adjustment at the ENGINE under the round clutch cover???
T.C.

T.C. - so, three years and a thousand-ish miles later, I finally went to work on it. I acquired some years back the Barnett springs and a gasket. This last trip I did a few weeks ago, it was getting dicey in the mornings, wanting to slip so much.

Welp, the first thing I did, of course, was finally check this throwout rod adjustment, as you suggested, and adjusted as you suggested.

No slipping at all; thank you!

I'm glad xs11.com is still here! I plan to keep my XS11 for as long as I have bikes and I can still keep her running.