'79 XS project by a mechanical newbie. (But hey, it was free)

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Stone,

Look at your #1 carb where the choke/enrichener rod is going thru it...see that little hole in the front of the rod housing....thats' where the spring and then the ball bearing goes, it's deeper than the thickness of the ROD....the rod is tapered on the end so that while you slightly hold the little ball bearing and spring compressed into that hole, you can the slide the enrichener rod into that holder and then the taper of the rod will push the bearing/spring down and allow the rod to then slide all the way into position...you will see/feel the little depressions/detents on the ROD...that's what the little ball bearing fits into to HOLD the enrichener rod in the FULL and partial Choke position vs. closed.

T.C.

[stoneairsoft]

Thanks! I figured it out. I'm glad I didn't pull the rod clear out of #1. The ball and spring were from #4... I must have missed that memo. All good now! Just have to figure out float height adjustments. I see this sight has lots of tutorials on that...just need to find one with pictures.

Hey Stone,

Look at your #1 carb where the choke/enrichener rod is going thru it...see that little hole in the front of the rod housing....thats' where the spring and then the ball bearing goes, it's deeper than the thickness of the ROD....the rod is tapered on the end so that while you slightly hold the little ball bearing and spring compressed into that hole, you can the slide the enrichener rod into that holder and then the taper of the rod will push the bearing/spring down and allow the rod to then slide all the way into position...you will see/feel the little depressions/detents on the ROD...that's what the little ball bearing fits into to HOLD the enrichener rod in the FULL and partial Choke position vs. closed.

T.C.

[stoneairsoft]

Gear Oil question

I've looked all over the FAQs and cannot find any pictures or how-tos for the middle and final gear oil changes.
I want to know where the plugs are, where to fill them, and what weight to use. I have already changed the engine oil and filter.
I have my carbs back on, and half the air box, but don't want to go further since I want to make changing these as easy as possible.


Can anybody help me out on this one?


I'm also ditching the octy and want to know how much fuel line I should purchase for the criss-cross method with in-line fuel filters?

[motoman]

I've looked all over the FAQs and cannot find any pictures or how-tos for the middle and final gear oil changes.
I want to know where the plugs are, where to fill them, and what weight to use. I have already changed the engine oil and filter.
I have my carbs back on, and half the air box, but don't want to go further since I want to make changing these as easy as possible.


Can anybody help me out on this one?


I'm also ditching the octy and want to know how much fuel line I should purchase for the criss-cross method with in-line fuel filters?

Approx. 2ft. of fuel line. Final/middle drive, definitely remove fill plugs PRIOR to draining, or your definitely gonna' have an issue as to re-fill. Final drive fill plug is at upper rear of final drive. Tis' an allen head fill plug, but you may have to snap a pair of vice grips on small exposed shoulder and tap vice grips right smartly with a hammer to loosen fill plug. Same goes for middle drive fill plug, which is also on top of middle drive. Re-fill amount of both is a small amount, and sure someone will chime in as to ounce amount in each. A hexed metric fill plug is available for each of those in those specialty trays at Ace or Tru-Valu.

[motoman]

BTW stoneair, if replacing fill plugs with hexed type, use one of the thick fiber gaskets under each fill plug. One of those WILL be needed for final drive fill plug in order for the small shoulder to completely clear that slightly recessed area where final drive fill plug goes.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Stone,

Did you read the registration email I sent to you when you first got registered??

In it I'm pretty sure I would have included the link to Catatonic Bug's web site where you can download user and service manuals in PDF format for your bike, and they have the information about what you're looking for in this situation. If you didn't see those links and deleted the email, then find CB in the Member's List link in the dark blue menu bar just above the forum....don't use the Grey Tool Bar drop down links.

Okay, here's the link to HIS membership page, click on the ABOUT ME tab to find the URL to his website. http://www.xs11.com/forum/member.php?u=13221

Both middle and final drive hold about 300 cc's, and this is where we DO recommend FULL SYNTH type hypoid, get the 75-140 range in the FULL SYNTH type. If you decide to use Dino, then the 80-90 is the normal stuff.

You can make your own dipstick from a pattern in the tech tips. Yes, either a fiber or NYLON washer will make it easier to loosen for future servicing. You may want to spritz the refill plugs with PB Blaster or similar penetrating fluid and let sit a while before attempting to break loose.

T.C.

[stoneairsoft]

I DO have the manual, but the scanning quality is so junky, everything looks black. Hard to tell.

I printed off some dipsticks from a PDF someone made and cut them out. I don't have a center stand, so I just tried to hold the bike as vertical as possible for both oil changes.
I also had difficulty identifying the hex heads because there are nice platic plugs in them, keeping the hexes nice and clean. I drained both...here's what came out the final drive. (the middle was slightly cleaner) I poured some good oil through to try and rinse it out. Both magnet drain bolts were caked in goop. It looks like melted chocolate. Gross!

The final mechanical thing I hope to do is replace the CCT with an auto-tensioner. What can I do to ensure I keep the timing intact without having to take the valve cover off?

A minor thing, but since I'm forgoing the Octy now, what do I do with the vacuum hose coming out of carb...1 or 2. (can't remember which)

(NOT SURE WHY THEY ROTATE ON HERE)

Hey Stone,

Did you read the registration email I sent to you when you first got registered??

In it I'm pretty sure I would have included the link to Catatonic Bug's web site where you can download user and service manuals in PDF format for your bike, and they have the information about what you're looking for in this situation. If you didn't see those links and deleted the email, then find CB in the Member's List link in the dark blue menu bar just above the forum....don't use the Grey Tool Bar drop down links.

Okay, here's the link to HIS membership page, click on the ABOUT ME tab to find the URL to his website. http://www.xs11.com/forum/member.php?u=13221

Both middle and final drive hold about 300 cc's, and this is where we DO recommend FULL SYNTH type hypoid, get the 75-140 range in the FULL SYNTH type. If you decide to use Dino, then the 80-90 is the normal stuff.

You can make your own dipstick from a pattern in the tech tips. Yes, either a fiber or NYLON washer will make it easier to loosen for future servicing. You may want to spritz the refill plugs with PB Blaster or similar penetrating fluid and let sit a while before attempting to break loose.

T.C.

[stoneairsoft]

I found this CCT combo on Ebay, but it's not a Vision...and it's an 1983. The 1979 XS1100Special isn't specified as compatible in the below link.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35501

http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/2223760190...&soutkn=4xbJEr

[tcoop]

I found this CCT combo on Ebay, but it's not a Vision or V-Max as specified in this link...
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35501

http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/2223760190...&soutkn=4xbJEr

Those will work. They are what I used on mine. Should be a direct bolt on

[stoneairsoft]

Thanks TCoop.

My previous questions stand...plus a few new ones.

After checking for spark and confirming all 4 wires were good, and finally cleaning and replacing parts in my carbs (thanks Schming), I hooked everything back up to try and start her up. Bad news.
Previously, only pipes 1 and 4 got hot. This time around, 1, 3, 4 were all hot. Number 1 even had some smoke coming out where it meets the engine (I initially thought due to spilt oil). I pulled to inspect the gasket I had replaced...no oblivious clues to a rookie like me.


It still ran quite rough, and though I KNOW I had the timing down (lined up dots on cams), I'm wondering if it became unsynched somehow.

I ended up pulling all 4 plugs to look for clues. Here's what I found (1-4 L-R). I'm assuming that means oil where it's not supposed to be? Which could explain the smoking exhaust #1? I assume this is bigger than "running too lean" or "running too rich". Notice #2-3 look "wet" while 1 and 4 don't...


I want to confirm, is this where the hose belongs? Or on the carb side of that boot?



Thanks again for everyone's help thus far. I was hoping to be close to victory! ...But lo...

[Schming]

Hose

The hose, in your last pic, goes to the nipple on the carb #2.

Should run better with the hose in the right place.

Looks like plug #4 isn't gapped properly?

Thanks TCoop.

My previous questions stand...plus a few new ones.

After checking for spark and confirming all 4 wires were good, and finally cleaning and replacing parts in my carbs (thanks Schming), I hooked everything back up to try and start her up. Bad news.
Previously, only pipes 1 and 4 got hot. This time around, 1, 3, 4 were all hot. Number 1 even had some smoke coming out where it meets the engine (I initially thought due to spilt oil). I pulled to inspect the gasket I had replaced...no oblivious clues to a rookie like me.


It still ran quite rough, and though I KNOW I had the timing down (lined up dots on cams), I'm wondering if it became unsynched somehow.

I ended up pulling all 4 plugs to look for clues. Here's what I found (1-4 L-R). I'm assuming that means oil where it's not supposed to be? Which could explain the smoking exhaust #1? I assume this is bigger than "running too lean" or "running too rich". Notice #2-3 look "wet" while 1 and 4 don't...


I want to confirm, is this where the hose belongs? Or on the carb side of that boot?



Thanks again for everyone's help thus far. I was hoping to be close to victory! ...But lo...

[stoneairsoft]

Schming,
Thanks! Couldn't remember for the hose.
Wow, I noticed that in the pic, but thought it was just the angle. Just went and looked. Sure enough, it's way off.
That still leaves some question marks, but thank you for addressing those two.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey again,

Okay, sorry about the manuals, didn't realize the photos looked that bad, I have a copy and have looked through it and thought most of it looked OK, but don't recall specifically looking at the photos that show the location of the middle/final drive bolts.

Reviewed the thread a few pages back, saw that Schming was involved in fixing your carbs, the broken float post, and stuck pilot jet screws, but then saw that you were putting them back together, with the PROPER pilot jets and such. SO...I'm asking and assuming that YOU are/were the one actually doing the cleaning of the carbs, and if so..then there's a chance that the pilot circuit isn't totally clean yet. Yes, once you take the carbs off the bike, separate from the rack, etc., they will be OUT OF SYNC, and will need to be resynced, but all 4 cylinders need to be working fairly well before attempting the vac. sync. The bench sync....aligning the butterflies so that you can just see the first of the 3 metering holes in top engine side of the carb throat partially exposed when the throttle is released/shut across all 4 carbs. This is more precise than the breadstick tie method you may have read about.

You had the valve cover off to check the valve timing, I think you have done the valve clearance adjustment as well, but not sure. Having the cover off would have been the time to install the ACCT, that's the only FOOLPROOF way to verifying that the chain stayed in place and the timing is intact after doing the ACCT install.

I think you said you have verified SPARK on all 4 plugs, but I see from the photos you're using OEM coils, plug wires, can't remember if you replaced the plug caps? Have you checked the resistances(primary and secondary) of the coils, and also the caps separately to ensure that the caps are at 5K ohms or less? Did you crimp off a little of the plug wire where it fits into the caps to get back to good bronze colored copper wire, and the screw in the cap is clean/corrosion free?

Have you been able to perform a compression test? IF the bike's not been run for many years, can have stuck rings that can allow excess oil slip into the combustion chamber. Also if the head/valve seals aren't good, oil can leak down the valves into the cylinders also. Are the plugs OIL wet, or FUEL wet? Could be both due to possible flooding which then loosens or thins the oil slipping by the rings?

Intake boots look nice and new, yes, that hose goes to #2 carb body nipple, it's for the vac. adv. unit. Remember to CAP the boot port. Did you use any sealant or gaskets with intake boots? Wouldn't worry too much about smoke off of the engine until you get it running well, and put several hundred miles on it to rebreakin the rings!

T.C.

[stoneairsoft]

I'm back again! Had some health problems, so I haven't been able to work consistently on the bike. I do want to replace my faulty CCT and check the clearances, timing, etc.
Can anyone verify these are the type I need for my 79 XS1100 Special? (I realize I only need one)
http://r.ebay.com/XK5AGz

[tcoop]

Yep. Those will work. They are the same one that I have on my bikes.