'79 XS project by a mechanical newbie. (But hey, it was free)

[stoneairsoft]

My Ol' college roommate gave me this bike 3 years ago due to whiteout on the title (really guys? Come on). After numerous contacts with the DOT/DMV, and looking up the original owner, I finally got the title this summer, so I could start investing in it. We had it running (driving using all gears I believe) 3 years ago, but noticed a blown head gasket (smoke puffing out the front by #4). After disassembling to that point, it sat for 2-3 years while the title junk got worked out.
So far, I replaced the head, valve cover, exhaust, and tensioner gaskets. I later disassembled and cleaned the carbs, and replaces the cracked intake boots and gaskets.
I noticed an in-line fuse, which I circumvented and wired straight together since it seemed like one of the OP had installed it himself (electrical tape job). Without this connection, only the tail light would illuminate, but the starter still worked.
I replaced the turn signal module with a basic 2-prong which works well, just slow.
I just drained the engine oil and replaced the filter. Also replaced the plugs.

When we were originally test driving it, we removed the front brakes (risky, I know). The rotor is rubbing the forks still, so realignment is one of my question areas.





I also noticed I'm missing the bolts/sleeves to hold the calipers to the fork. Any idea where I can buy these?


I noticed another custom job by the rear axle. What do I need to replace this? Looks like the original bolt is gone.



Lastly, I noticed my clutch seems stuck in 1-N-2 and has a catch in between. I haven't experimented too much with it as of yet.

I finally started her up last night and was able to keep her running a bit by giving her gas. I closed the choke and noticed it making her struggle momentarily before dying. I just ran her for 30sec or so since I had not changed the oil yet at that point.

I've used this site a BUNCH in my process already and appreciate any help, critiquing/critisizing you may provide. I may need layman's terms due to my expertise (lack of). I recently moved to MN and left my friends who are much more knowledgeable than I.

I have this link now, which seems VERY helpful. Thanks! http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=792

[DiverRay]

Welcome! I'll start with the easy button.
1. The bolt in the rear axle should not be there. That is for removing the axle, and usually you put a phillips driver into it.
2. For the fuse block:http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14052
3. Fork alignment. Loosen ALL the pinch bolts and clamp bolts on the forks, from the top tripletree on down. Set the fork lowers so you have the same space on both sides, and then re-tighten all the bolts bottom up. You should have about 3mm to 5mm space on both rotors. Thread here:http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37399
Special front brakes ARE special, and have their own bolt. You will have to find new/used bolts on ebay or from andreas, a member here who has a lot of spare parts he sells.

[stoneairsoft]

Thanks for the quick reply!
I'll take the "tool" for the rear axle out, but shouldn't there be another bolt clamping the upper and lower parts surrounding the axle so it doesn't slide out?


I'll include a picture of my fuse box (maybe more PO customization?) but I only have spots for 3 fuses...maybe why the in line fuse (yellow wire nut in the pic) was included? I even tried following the "electrical troubleshoot" guide on here, but don't see anything about an in line.


I'll try realigning the fork this week. I may have to contact this member then. No clue where those caliper sleeves are...probably back at the old place. Gotta get the front bead back on the rim though. She's completely flat.

Welcome! I'll start with the easy button.
1. The bolt in the rear axle should not be there. That is for removing the axle, and usually you put a phillips driver into it.
2. For the fuse block:http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14052
3. Fork alignment. Loosen ALL the pinch bolts and clamp bolts on the forks, from the top tripletree on down. Set the fork lowers so you have the same space on both sides, and then re-tighten all the bolts bottom up. You should have about 3mm to 5mm space on both rotors. Thread here:http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37399
Special front brakes ARE special, and have their own bolt. You will have to find new/used bolts on ebay or from andreas, a member here who has a lot of spare parts he sells.

[DiverRay]

Yes, there should be an 8mm(I think) bolt and nut to clamp the axle on that side of the swingarm.

[BA80]

The special forks have a machining flaw that will allow the fork to move against the rotor. Just loosen the axle pinch bolt and center up the rotor in the slot and tighten the pinch bolt.

A little TLC and you should have a sweet ride there. I did an SF a few years ago and started wit less than that. It tuned out great.

http://s154.photobucket.com/user/gre...w/79%20special

[stoneairsoft]

Question. I have the octy, and would like to keep using it. Is the fuel diagram under the seat accurate? Seems like "on" on the pet lock lets fuel out the back feed, which doesn't directly connect with the carbs like the 1,4 lines of the octy do, meeting at the front feed. When I flip to reserve, it seems to work (and run) properly. Insight? Seems like the hoses should be switched.

[BA80]

The fuel should come out of the rear outlets with the petcocks in the on or reserve position, the front ones are prime and yes, they do T together into the fuel inlet lines to the carbs.

I felt the same way about the octy until mine failed twice on long trips. Once just shutting off fuel to the carbs, had to run on prime for about 1500 miles, and another time it ruptured and sprayed fuel all over the top of the engine and underneath the tank.

The octy has now been deleted and the front nipples capped.

[stoneairsoft]

Thanks for the confirmation. Maybe I had it on prime when it was running well. Maybe I'll eventually straight feed, but I'll try Yamaha's method for now.

The fuel should come out of the rear outlets with the petcocks in the on or reserve position, the front ones are prime and yes, they do T together into the fuel inlet lines to the carbs.

I felt the same way about the octy until mine failed twice on long trips. Once just shutting off fuel to the carbs, had to run on prime for about 1500 miles, and another time it ruptured and sprayed fuel all over the top of the engine and underneath the tank.

The octy has now been deleted and the front nipples capped.

[stoneairsoft]

CCT Issue



Noticed some leaking oil after idling for a bit. I could push it back in, but does this mean I need a new Cam Chain Tensioner?

[stoneairsoft]

Video

I included a link to a video of it running (need to up the idle I believe). The audio is not perfectly accurate, but close. If I let up on the throttle, it rattles pretty bad, but that's down at 500RPMs. Is there an easy way to adjust the idle without messing with the adjuster on the carbs? (sorry, it's an iPhone upright video)
https://youtu.be/A1vJBFyRjwg

[DiverRay]

The CCT should be replaced with a newer model, see here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35501
The idle adjustment is a large nob above the carbs, and I use a long flat blade screw driver to adjust it while the engine is running. From the RIGHT side of the engine, you can look just above the carb tops and see it at an angle. push toward the rear to speed up, and to the front to slow down.

[stoneairsoft]

I assume you mean on the bottom of the carbs? That's where my knob is at (unless the whole thing is upside down...I mean, I AM a newb)

Secondly, in my video, can anyone confirm that at 20sec, the rattle is just engine starvation from being at 500RPMs and not tappet noise? Pretty sure the timing is correct, as we aligned the arrows and dots on the cams (cranked timing plate once to make sure it was still on) before putting the valve cover back on.

How can I be sure I'm getting the proper CCT replacement? Seems like there are so many styles and springs...making it complicated for a rookie like myself.

The CCT should be replaced with a newer model, see here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35501
The idle adjustment is a large nob above the carbs, and I use a long flat blade screw driver to adjust it while the engine is running. From the RIGHT side of the engine, you can look just above the carb tops and see it at an angle. push toward the rear to speed up, and to the front to slow down.

[3Phase]

No, it's not starvation noise. I think the carbs and cylinders are slightly are out of balance and what you're hearing is primary chain/shaft, connecting rod and crankshaft noise from uneven firing. It's not supposed to idle at that speed and even slight imbalances will make noise.

When a stock engine is tuned correctly and the carbs are balanced then the engine will idle quietly and smoothly at ~500 RPM or even a little lower.

The low oil pressure at that speed is really not good for the engine so don't leave it that way for very long, just do it as quickly as possible to adjust the idle mixture screws or to confirm the engine's state of tune/balance and turn it back up to 11... hundred.

[stoneairsoft]

Ahh. Thank you. This seems way above what I'm capable of, but I'll do some searching on here and see if it's something I can attempt.
I never knew there could be so many things to check!

No, it's not starvation noise. I think the carbs and cylinders are slightly are out of balance and what you're hearing is primary chain/shaft, connecting rod and crankshaft noise from uneven firing. It's not supposed to idle at that speed and even slight imbalances will make noise.

When a stock engine is tuned correctly and the carbs are balanced then the engine will idle quietly and smoothly at ~500 RPM or even a little lower.

The low oil pressure at that speed is really not good for the engine so don't leave it that way for very long, just do it as quickly as possible to adjust the idle mixture screws or to confirm the engine's state of tune/balance and turn it back up to 11... hundred.

[stoneairsoft]

So I decided to put silicone on the cct for now, and after running for about 30sec today, I decided to check the pipes. #1 and #4 were not hot like 2-3 were. Is this likely also due to improper balance of the carbs, or are 1,4 not firing?
Even if the timing/cams were slightly off, they'd still be warm, correct?

Anyone have a carb sync for sale for less than Amazon?

No, it's not starvation noise. I think the carbs and cylinders are slightly are out of balance and what you're hearing is primary chain/shaft, connecting rod and crankshaft noise from uneven firing. It's not supposed to idle at that speed and even slight imbalances will make noise.

When a stock engine is tuned correctly and the carbs are balanced then the engine will idle quietly and smoothly at ~500 RPM or even a little lower.

The low oil pressure at that speed is really not good for the engine so don't leave it that way for very long, just do it as quickly as possible to adjust the idle mixture screws or to confirm the engine's state of tune/balance and turn it back up to 11... hundred.