'79 XS project by a mechanical newbie. (But hey, it was free)

[3Phase]

Here you go, lots of options or you can buy some unbroken carburetors.

http://www.google.com/search?&q=floa...+site:xs11.com

[stoneairsoft]

Thanks! Since I have no machining equipment, I'm looking more into buying.
It's possible to only buy 2/4, right? All I see on Ebay are expensive, full sets.

Here you go, lots of options or you can buy some unbroken carburetors.

http://www.google.com/search?&q=floa...+site:xs11.com

[stoneairsoft]

Or basically, if I can EZ-out the pilot jets and buy replacements, could I still use these carbs? Without doing anything to the float post?
The PO's repair is definitely not flush with factory-spec, but it was running at least.

[3Phase]

Or basically, if I can EZ-out the pilot jets and buy replacements, could I still use these carbs? Without doing anything to the float post?
The PO's repair is definitely not flush with factory-spec, but it was running at least.

Most of the float post repairs don't require a machine shop, just hand tools. Sometimes there are individual carburetors for sale on eBay, sometimes just 'spendy sets. Make a post here on the site:-

XS11.com | Buy, Sell, Trade Forum | Wanted to buy - XS and XJ1100 parts and bikes.

For the jets, try hot water and an EZ Out. If it doesn't come right out, use a left-hand drill bit. Don't keep twisting the EZ Out, it'll dig in and expand the brass, then you'll never get it out:-


XS11.com | Galled Pilot Jets - About to start drilling!



A few more ideas:-


XS11.com | Pilot Jet Removal/HELP

[stoneairsoft]

Pilot Jets removed

I extracted the two broken pilot jets. They were the 6-hole variety. Tips on where to buy? I checked Mikes XS and saw some that looked compatible, but when I narrowed the search based on an XS1100, none came up.

My next question is basically, can I still use the carb with the post jimmy-rigged as the PO had it done? It did run (though not very well, due to blown head gasket) before I tore it apart.
It seems to me that it would need to be broken back off and made level. Not sure what was used to keep it attached in its current state.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Stone,

Okay, everything about your bike's earlier photos says 79 SF, the solid rotors, the 160MPH Speedo, BUT your carbs SAY 80+ model....they have the 4 small inlet bell ports, the plastic type floats, the press in O-ringed needle valve seats. It's NOT uncommon for folks to swap carbs from models/years to others...hence what you NOW have.

SO...you'll want to check your jets to ensure that you're using the sizes for the 80 model, NOT the 79 models! The Mains should be 110's, and the pilots 42.5. The float heights should be ~23mm. You jet for the model/year of Carbs, not the bike.

Now, as to your broken float post....if ANY type of epoxy was used...ie. JB Weld or similar, it won't hold up to total immersion in FUEL/Ethanol....we've proved that. You don't need to have MACHINING tools to be able to fix that post. But you do want to fix it so that you can LEVEL out the float assembly...right now it's tilted and that can cause both binding as well as incorrect/imprecise setting of the float height.

If you have a drill and a small bit, you can drill straight down into the remaining post, and then use a fine machine threaded screw, perhaps with a solid upper part/shaft/head area where you can grind the sides flat and then drill a hole thru the side for the float PIN. Just make the drilled hole a hair smaller than the screw so it can be a simple interference fit, probably don't even need to TAP the hole, just so that the screw can fit down into the hole enough turns to be snug!

Another technique would be to slightly dremel the contact surfaces between the cracked parts....right now the broken part is sitting UP too HIGH, perhaps just removing the epoxy/glue that was attempted so that when the broken part is in place, the PIN will be level. Then you can take a dremel cut off wheel and cut a small little groove along the TOP of the broken post piece enough for a piece of stainless steel wire could fit across/into it. Then drill another hole thru the lower post piece also PERPENDICULAR to the Float PIN....so that the "safety" wire can run from lower up across the broken piece and down the other side and just twist/secure it there where it won't interfere with the float action and the float bowl fitment.

Go for it!

T.C.

[Schming]

Float post fix

Hi stone, check out this link post #85 and on is a float post repair I did for a member.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43908&page=6

If you're not in a hurry send me your busted carb and I'll fix it.

[Ranger_xs1100]

nice!

Hi stone, check out this link post #85 and on is a float post repair I did for a member.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43908&page=6

Very nice work Schming! Excellent!

[motoman]

Stoneairsoft, your best option to replace those pilot jets is goona be a local Yamaha dealer. They also NEED to be Genuine Mikuni,42.5....No RD or K&L copies.

[stoneairsoft]

Topcat,
Thanks for pointing out that discrepancy! I did think it suspicious when I saw the brass(floats) many 79s had on YouTube and such. As always, I appreciate your applicable advice. I may try your 2nd method. Just need to find some strong, thin wire.

Schming,
I very much appreciate your offer. If I screw things up, I'll for sure send it your way. I'm definitely not in any hurry, but after Topcats proposals, I believe I can make do. I'll get back to you for sure!

I'll see if a local dealer carries them. That'd be the simplest way to get the correct (quality) pieces.

I bought a bucket of carb cleaner and look forward to letting these babies soak!

Is there a good way to clean the carb bodies' insides without completely separating the carbs and submerging?


Thank you all for all the help thus far. I had it running rough this fall, so I'm confident I can get it going better...hopefully THIS summer.

Hi stone, check out this link post #85 and on is a float post repair I did for a member.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43908&page=6

If you're not in a hurry send me your busted carb and I'll fix it.

[motoman]

With carb bank removed, remove the float bowls and use a can of Berryman spray carb cleaner and blow through all the exposed orfices. Be sure and wear eye protection as that spray will come out an unexpected orfice and hit you head-on in the eye, which REALLY burns!...BTDT.

[TopCatGr58]

Brant.....you're slipping!!

Stone...DO NOT SOAK THE CARB BODIES IN DIP! ! It's very caustic and will ruin the buttefly shaft seals and cause vacuum leaks!!!! You can soak many of the metal parts and floats you REMOVE from the bodies, just not the actual bodies themselves. As Motoman said, you will use the spray carb cleaner to clean the bodies and all of the passages. Take a look at the carb cleaning 101 tech tip for techniques.

Now some folks have soaked the carbs in IIRC Pinesol and other non-corrosive type cleaning solutions, sometimes with an ultrasonic device.

Take a look at this thread for some nice INSIDE views of the carbs, the passages and such! http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...t=carb+anatomy

T.C.

[motoman]

Naw......figured you or a couple others would pick up any slack in my response anyways.

[stoneairsoft]

I give up

Please check your PM.

The PO inserted a small rod vertically in the post to strengthrn it, but it only seems to have made it more complicated.

Hi stone, check out this link post #85 and on is a float post repair I did for a member.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43908&page=6

If you're not in a hurry send me your busted carb and I'll fix it.

[stoneairsoft]

Schming, thanks for helping me out!

I have one old problem, and one new.

While waiting for Schming to receive my carb, I used the compressed carb/choke cleaner to blow out the "orifices" of my remaining 3 carbs. As I did so, I discovered a small spring that must have been blown out of somewhere. Can anyone direct me as to where it belongs? I gave the 3 carbs a once-over but didn't notice anything obvious. Here's a size comparison.



I'm struggling to find the correct bolts to put the calipers back on. I did consult Andreas, but he doesn't have extras lying around. H suggested they may be the same as the 650. All I could find on MikesXS were these: https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650...k-2-77-84.html
which I assume are not the ones I need. Does anyone have a part number? I'll include pics of which bolt I'm talking about. I need the one to connect to the fork. (not sure why they keep rotating upon upload!





Thanks!