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  • #31
    Yes I have the standard. Thanks biker phil. I see you have owned an XS1100 3years longer than my time on earth and you have brembo brakes on your bike, im curious on how much?
    78 E

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    • #32
      I have a Brembo 16MM MC on my Special, it is a high quality piece and was $120. The Specials have a poorer type caliper than the Standards and all around don't stop as well. The 16MM MC is a better choice for the Special, the 14MM is better for the Standard. SS brake lines are a must which I see you will be using.
      2H7 (79) owned since '89
      3H3 owned since '06

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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      • #33
        Carb Sync Size?

        Does anyone know what size adapter I need in order to sync the carbs? 6mm?
        78 E

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        • #34
          There are four nipples on the carb holders, one per. A 1/4" tube is all that you need to connect the vacuum gauges to the engine. If the tool you have has a bunch of different screw in adapters, you do NOT need them.
          Ray Matteis
          KE6NHG
          XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
          XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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          • #35
            Damn Carb Screws

            The screws on top off my carbs are being stripped with a hand screwdriver by the lightest turns and they wont budge. How do i remove these suckers? I already stripped two so I'm thinking about soaking them in WD40. Where can I buy replacement screws?
            78 E

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            • #36
              1. Put the carbs between two blocks of wood on a bench, and use an IMPACT DRIVER to remove them.
              2. The ones that are stripped, cut a slot in them and use a flat blade on the impact driver.
              3. A 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF (auto transmission fluid) works BETTER that WD40, by a LOT!
              4. You can find replacement screws at the local ACE hardware store. I get the button head Stainless Steel myself, as I like the looks. Don't forget to put a little lube on the threads so they don't gall.
              You can find the impact drivers at most auto parts stores, or Harbor Freight, for about $15. You hold it and hit the top with a hammer, and that spins the bit a little bit.
              Ray Matteis
              KE6NHG
              XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
              XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

              Comment


              • #37
                Use KROIL to get the rust broken down in the screw threads.

                I used a 1/4" ratchet and a proper sized socket and a proper screwdriver bit.
                This arrangement allows you to place downward pressure on the screwdriver bit while producing enough torque sideways to bust the screw loose.

                The driver bit is from an impact driver. This bit seems to be a better fit for the Japanese screw slots than any other screwdriver bit that I own.
                82 XJ1100 - sold
                96 Honda Magna 750 - Girlfriend's bike
                2000 ZRX1100 - sold
                2003 FJR1300 - Silver rocket

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                • #38
                  A visegrips on the screw heads will also work.
                  2H7 (79) owned since '89
                  3H3 owned since '06

                  "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                    (snip)You can find the impact drivers at most auto parts stores, or Harbor Freight, for about $15. You hold it and hit the top with a hammer, and that spins the bit a little bit.

                    Yep, best thing since slides bread! You don't need it often but when you do, you'll be glad you have it!
                    Skids (Sid Hansen)

                    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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                    • #40
                      Thank you all for the tips I have added an impact driver to my tool kit but am waiting for my Kroil I ordered. Which lube should I use to make sure they dont get stuck? I bought molybdenum disulfide grease for the shaft splines wondering if thats good enough.
                      78 E

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                      • #41
                        but am waiting for my Kroil I ordered
                        Once you get it, do an experiment. Use the 50/50 mix acetone/ATF on one carb, and the Kroil on another. See what the difference is and report back! You may be shocked at how well they both work, and the difference in price between the two. For the screws, as long as you have the lock washer on them, use a little anti-seize on the threads. It will keep the two different types pf metal from reacting with each other.
                        Ray Matteis
                        KE6NHG
                        XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                        XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          http://www.hvccycle.net/yamaha-xs110...on-hvc200106f/

                          Will this fit the 1978 E' I'm guessing all the standards had the same brake piston sizes...
                          78 E

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                          • #43
                            No, that piston is for the Specials.You want the HVC200106-5 for the Standards. The 78E is not listed, but the 79F and 80G are. All Standard models use the same piston, front and rear.
                            Last edited by bikerphil; 09-08-2016, 07:32 AM.
                            2H7 (79) owned since '89
                            3H3 owned since '06

                            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Thanks,then I'll try to clean the rust of mine with a toothbrush and coat it with brake lube.

                              I'm looking for a seat replacement but it feels impossible to find for less than $300. I really dont want to ride around with duct tape on my motorcycle and get the after adhesive left by ripped off pieces on my pants. I bought vinyl and was going to just replace it but since the bolts on the seat pan are so weak and rusted ( i broke three bolt heads by gently loosening) its a hopeless task to try to remove the vinyl leather the right way.
                              78 E

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                              • #45
                                Loose Clutch Feel

                                Updates on the bike. 95% done with the front brakes. Cleaned the calipers. Replaced the pads and rubber seals. Put SS lines and a new master cylinder. All thats left is to put brake fluid in/bleed them.

                                I changed the clutch lever to match my new master cylinder brake lever and it feels so loose. i squeeze it and there is no resistance to bring it back. I have Bernett Springs to put into the clutch but dont know it that will fully restore tension in the clutch. Any suggestions/tips?
                                78 E

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