The Comeback 'Kid' Project

[Prisoner6]

Hi, CK -

Here are links to 3 threads discussing the fuse block, including the one mentioned in post #15:

Fuse Box Replacement: A Pictorial

Replacing the Fusebox

Replacement Fuse Blocks and Possibly TERMINALS

FWIW, the fuses/block are a well-known weak spot on these old XS11's ... as TC alluded to, upgrading them is definitely recommended, almost mandatory.

[sethhope]

Sorry, Kid ...

Meant to include this in my last post!

Have a look at these 2 threads ... both good reads with lots of info:

Stainless lines and more from XJBikes.com

TECHNA-FIT S/S Braided Brake Lines

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As for owners in your neck of the woods ... I believe Gordon (Eastcoaster) lives in New Jersey ... only a couple of hours from you.

Maybe some of our other members near/around you will see this thread and chime in ...

Good Luck with your project!

+1 for Eastcoaster if he's around here somewhere. He got mine running in an afternoon! I was in a similar situation as you. Got my bike in a bucket of parts however. And at 19 y.o., i definitely am too young to be working with a 79.
Tips from my experience:
TRIPLE CHECK YOUR VACUUM LINES
TRIPLE CLEAN YOUR CARBS
TRIPLE CHECK YOUR PICKUP WIRES

thats all. Good luck

[90sCafeKid]

Which bike do i even have?!

So after searching around i thought I narrowed my bike down to the 78E.... It has a speedometer that goes past 80 the title of the bike says 78. The paint under the black was the maroon and gold so i thought it was standard but the back of plastic fender says XS Elevel Special?!?!! which one is it?

[90sCafeKid]

Disregard the last post I checked the Serial # and its a 2H7-00**** so I was right all along maybe they all have the special wording on the rear , i dont know since there aren't that want pictures of the bikes tail light.

[90sCafeKid]

Project Update

I have all the parts to get my bike in mechanical order except for valve and crankcase parts.

I have used Metal Rescue to help remove the rust off the inside of the tank. I finished standing it right side up and am currently soaking the topside. It was very expensive but it got the bottom done without damage to the tank.

The next order of business is getting the carbs cleaned and changing the back tire. The back tire is going to prove to be difficult as I have to use a makeshift lift for the motorcycle given it doesn't have a center stand. I will remove the rusty 4 to 1 muffler (put it in metal rescue) and attempt this unsafe method... wish me luck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-NzKhjXW0g

Next I will bleed my brakes empty dissamble the calipers and replace the brake pads and put in my rebuild kits and SS brake lines. Also I'll put in my master cylinder rebuilds in both front and rear brakes. (A LOT OF WORK)

Then I will change oil in engine, final drive, middle drive. I will shine and polish everything I can. I need to buy a new seat and then I will look into installing the new fuse box and putting in new lights since the original ones are pitted rusted after I get it started again.

[TopCatGr58]

So after searching around i thought I narrowed my bike down to the 78E.... It has a speedometer that goes past 80 the title of the bike says 78. The paint under the black was the maroon and gold so i thought it was standard but the back of plastic fender says XS Elevel Special?!?!! which one is it?

Only the 78-79 Standards had that unique plastic seat hugging rear cowl above the FENDER, and it has a place for a nameplate that usually just says YAMAHA, but a PO may have liked the Special namebadge and put that on it instead???

Here are a few photos from the XSINFO tab at the top of the site's menu bars, the Ads-Brochures section.

78E Standard:


79 Standard


79 Special


So...does the badge on your seat cowl look like the side cover badge of the Special above?

T.C.

[HalfCentury]

I have all the parts to get my bike in mechanical order except for valve and crankcase parts.

I have used Metal Rescue to help remove the rust off the inside of the tank. I finished standing it right side up and am currently soaking the topside. It was very expensive but it got the bottom done without damage to the tank.

The next order of business is getting the carbs cleaned and changing the back tire. The back tire is going to prove to be difficult as I have to use a makeshift lift for the motorcycle given it doesn't have a center stand. I will remove the rusty 4 to 1 muffler (put it in metal rescue) and attempt this unsafe method... wish me luck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-NzKhjXW0g

Next I will bleed my brakes empty dissamble the calipers and replace the brake pads and put in my rebuild kits and SS brake lines. Also I'll put in my master cylinder rebuilds in both front and rear brakes. (A LOT OF WORK)

Then I will change oil in engine, final drive, middle drive. I will shine and polish everything I can. I need to buy a new seat and then I will look into installing the new fuse box and putting in new lights since the original ones are pitted rusted after I get it started again.

Master cylinder rebuild is relatively simple. Owning the proper circlip removal tool makes it much easier than not owning the tool. The calipers are more work than the master cylinders in my opinion. Especially if one or more calipers are seized. My XJ1100 front two calipers were both seized. A pain to dislodge the frozen pistons. Cleaning the crud out of the channel where the rubber seal resides is also a pain. I cleaned every bit of road grime from the calipers. It required several cans of spray brake cleaner. It is shocking how much black gunk flowed from the calipers. The process left a large black spot on my driveway which the rain eventually washed away.

SS brake lines are the single most important and life saving upgrade. Its amazing how much grip the ancient calipers and rotor provide with a SS brake line.

[Eastcoaster]

Welcome

Able,

Welcome to the site. Please feel free to reach out with any questions we are all here to help.

Don't hesitate I also have an office in Roseland and a large construction project I will be working on for the next few years. I would have no problem stopping by if you need some help. I am up in that area during the week and back south fishing off shore if not riding on the weekends.

To find an E is an amazing fast responsive machine be careful take your time to learn the bike


Eastcoaster
Gordon

[90sCafeKid]

Eastcoaster thank you for your support. I will definitely take you up on that offer once I reach a point where I get stuck bad like valves, tuneups and electrical.


Does anyone know where I can get a replacement front master cylinder? The one I have is turning into chalk and will definitely leak in moisture to my brake fluid. I may have to get a rear one too. I was thinking about buying this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVRIQ94..._g4WWxbK3B63GN

[90sCafeKid]

Eastcoaster thank you for your support. I will definitely take you up on that offer once I reach a point where I get stuck bad like valves, tuneups and electrical.


Does anyone know where I can get a replacement front master cylinder? The one I have is turning into chalk and will definitely leak in moisture to my brake fluid. I may have to get a rear one too. I was thinking about buying this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVRIQ94..._g4WWxbK3B63GN

[DiverRay]

That will not work!
If you are putting on SS lines, go with a 14mm front from mikesxs.com, or any other site that has the Yamaha replacement MC's. The smaller bore with the SS lines allows you to keep the "feel" in the front brakes. With the 16mm(stock), it feels like a wood block and it's hard to regulate.

[90sCafeKid]

Thanks for the tip I am putting in SS lines from TechnaFit. I wish i could actually find a cheaper MC that fit

[bikerphil]

Thanks for the tip I am putting in SS lines from TechnaFit. I wish i could actually find a cheaper MC that fit

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...+16mm&_sacat=0

[90sCafeKid]

Ty bikerphil, now im wondering whether to get 14 mm or 16mm, i guess its by preference if i want a harder feel on the brake or not? Any opinions?

[bikerphil]

You have a Standard right? Go with the 14MM for nice linear travel (good feel) with the lever.