The Comeback 'Kid' Project

[90sCafeKid]

I recently just bought a '78 XS1100E. I am one of the newest and probably the youngest member in this forum. My XS11 is almost twice my age. I don't have much mechanical knowledge but that's where manuals and you guys come in. I've learned a ton already through all the maintenance and repair sections of this forum.

I hope I can reach to you all for guidance so that I may turn my machine into the monster I know it has the potential to be.

Condition:

The Good
- the frame is good
-the engine runs. Carbs are good
-Oil has been changed in May by previous owner
-Has recent battery.

The Bad
- Rust everywhere
-Bunch of Electrical issues with light
-Clutch is slippery
-Front Brake is shot, no idea if its the pads, caliper, or master cylinder
-Fuel-Shutoff valve(aka Petcock) Leak and broken vacuum tubes
-Leather seat is destroyed and duct taped

One of the old owners showed left the marks of lazy workmanship. Duct tape on the ripped seat. Spray foam on the petcocks, a pain to remove. Indoor electrical wiring. Nothing in the airbox. Also the worst of it is the black spray paint on the tank over the original maroon.

Fixes to be done
- rebuild the petcock, adjust the clutch, fix front brake, replace the seat with a lower profile durable seat, replace airbox with pod filters, remove all the lights and fix the electrical (the most difficult task for me), repaint the tank, polish metal.

Is there a replacement part for the fuel filter for the petcock. If there is, how do you remove it ? Do I just yank it off?

https://goo.gl/photos/MUaw7oughjs8P76B6



https://goo.gl/photos/ehVEbMfGD2bqoWPVA

[ardvark1]

As far as parts are concerned you'll be able to get whatever you need, some will take time to find. The one problem you may find is getting the parts when you want them. Some parts you'll get will have to be second hand while others will be new.

[JeffH]

I recently just bought a '78 XS1100E.

I hope I can reach to you all for guidance so that I may turn my machine into the monster I know it has the potential to be.

One of the old owners showed left the marks of lazy workmanship.
> (that's not unusual, which makes it important for you to go check everything as you get this bike up to YOUR standards)

https://goo.gl/photos/ehVEbMfGD2bqoWPVA

GREAT PURCHASE and WELCOME

These bikes are fairly easy to work on and there is tremendous pride in transforming a crappy unsafe bike into one that safe and ride-able (depending on how often and how far you plan to ride it)

For starters, I'd assume NOTHING is right. If you really want the bike reliable and safe and breakdown resistant you need to spend the time and a few bucks to do it the right way.

At this point cosmetics is secondary. One thing the gurus stress here is just do one thing at a time so you don't start creating more problems which complicates the diagnosis.

No brakes: many say make it stop is a priority. So pull apart the calipers and brake master and clean it out. Replace any parts as needed.

Carbs: its your new machine so cleaning the carbs out good will save you a bunch of trouble later.

Valves: while you are at it maybe check the valve clearances just so YOU know what they are.

At some point (once you have brakes & have it running) you should look at the Date Stamp on the tires to make sure they are not too old.

So write down a work plan then keep us posted on how things are going and what you are working on. Essentials first. Also make sure no gas is in the oil.

Oh, check inside the gas tank and see if you have rust problems in there. Fastest way to clog the carbs is from rust in the gas tank. even with fuel filters

Have FUN .......
These are certainly wonderful machines.

Jeff

[johnstewart]

Welcome to the club! I've had mine for about 15 years now, and have put on 2/3s of the miles (bought it with 11k, now about 33k).

My mantra on anything wrong with it:

If it's not an electrical issue, it's probably an electrical issue!

[HalfCentury]

Your slippery clutch may be cured with the cheapest Walmart 20W50 Supertech oil. Change the oil and drive it a while and change it again. That cured my XJ650 slippery clutch. The inline 4 cylinder 1970s and 1980s engines all have the same wet clutch. Any slippery additives in the oil makes the clutch slippery. Only use plain oil with no friction additives.

Brakes are your life. Don't ride it until you fully recondition the calipers and master cylinders.

[johnstewart]

Your slippery clutch may be cured with the cheapest Walmart 20W50 Supertech oil. Change the oil and drive it a while and change it again. That cured my XJ650 slippery clutch. The inline 4 cylinder 1970s and 1980s engines all have the same wet clutch. Any slippery additives in the oil makes the clutch slippery. Only use plain oil with no friction additives.

Brakes are your life. Don't ride it until you fully recondition the calipers and master cylinders.

Yes, all that he said. I noticed long ago in my foolish experiment with Mobil 1 synthetic oil that I also had a slippery clutch.

[skids]

Yes, all that he said. I noticed long ago in my foolish experiment with Mobil 1 synthetic oil that I also had a slippery clutch.

Me too! It was a nightmare. It even made it use oil for a while until the dinojuice kicked in.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Cafe Kid,

I "played" with your photos and found a way to put a direct posting link into the thread so the photos would show vs. just being a Web Link.

Next, those pipes appear to be KERKER, take good care of them, aftermarket pipes are almost non-existent now, nobody makes them for our machines anymore, Mac, Kerker, Jardine, NOBODY.....so you'll definitely want to save them!!!

Also, someone painted the fenders, they were supposed to be chrome, but like myself, probably painted them to cover severe rusting that developed over the years and exposure.

As was stated, the filter tower is a pressure fit onto the petcock, but just clean it, and then put INLINE filters on the fuel supply lines between the carbs and petcocks to provide proper filtration, don't rely on the petcocks filters.

I zoomed in on the photo, but still couldn't make out the miles on the odometer, would be nice to know how many it has on it. Also noticed that it still has the OEM Glass style fuses and block. That's one of the first electrical upgrades we HIGHLY recommend to help reduce the electrical gremlins....put in a solid ATCO style block and fuses. As said, you're going to want to go over the bike with a fine tooth comb so to speak...like taking EVERY electrical connector apart, inspecting, cleaning with electrical contact cleaner and reassemble. Don't forget the ALT plugs BEHIND the fuseblock plate!!! Also, all of the ground cables connected to the REG/RECT on the frame under the tank, the contact of the bottom of the REG/RECT and the frame bolt down contact! Also the engine to frame ground at the starter motor as well as the main battery cable.

The tires do look good, but checking the born on date is a good thing, it's an OVAL on the sidewall with 4 numbers, first 2 are week#, last 2 are year. If they are near or past 5 years old, it's a good idea to replace them due to just normal aging/drying/hardening that occurs to tire rubber exposed to OZONE atmosphere, that makes the tires slippery, not good for safety/handling.

Folks haven't asked yet, but have you taken a Motorcycle Safety Foundation course??
Being your FIRST BIKE, it's a big heavy powerful machine, and can kill you very quickly if you aren't careful and know how to handle it, but more importantly how to avoid getting run over by the cagers. Take a look at the MISC forum, the Why We Are Invisible thread for a real eye opener about why we are so paranoid about riding around cars!

As was stated, get the brakes working, you will probably need to take the calipers apart, clean the pistons and especially the groove that the square edged O-ring fits into. Corrosion can develop in there that can cause the piston to hang up, drag and not release when you let go of the lever! Also, you'll want to replace the OEM vinyl lines with Braided Stainless Steel lines, makes them much better, responsive, harder/firmer lever and such!

Aside from not using Synth or oils with friction modifiers, the clutch springs are probably OEM, and after 30+ years of heat/compression, they are probably SPRUNG and no longer in spec. Look for and get some Barnett Springs for it. Most folks have found that their frictions are still well within specs, but slip due to worn/weak springs!!! Read up on the Tranny Dremel fix, or the Extra Steel Clutch Plate(don't add the plate) just read to learn about how to remove and replace the star plate WITHOUT breaking of any of the points of the star while replacing the springs!

There's lots more to tell you, but you're just getting your feet wet right now, come back often and you'll learn lots as you go through the reconditioning of the bike!!

T.C.

[skids]

I think you adequately stress the importance on knowing the critical functions of the bike, TC! He is shaking in his boots. Haha!

[90sCafeKid]

Thank you for the tips.

Thanks for the oil tip. I'll be sure to avoid any friction additives.

JeffH : I'm taking your advice. I am assuming that nothing is good. I am buying repair kits for everything I need.

TC: I was excited to get an after market exhaust. I was going to save up for a Mac 4 to 1 but when I saw it already had one I was excited. I'm wondering if it helps with airflow or its just an exhaust for looks and sounds. I most probably have to strip it off for and buy a centerstand in order to work on parts of my bike which need the bike to be level or the tires up for replacement.

I already ordered in-line filters. One thing out of a billion checked off.

I definitely need help on anything electrical. I called a restoration bike garage and they said they "don't do work on bikes like that". I think the only way to do any fuse box upgrades or electrical fixes are if their are Barney style steps for instructions.

The front tires are good enough for maybe 1 more season. The back tire has a lot of meat left but unfortunately the rubber is rotting on the sides so I ordered michelin commander II rear tire.

I am currently am a cadet and commissioning into the US Army in two years and have signed a Nursing contract with them. I have taken an MSF course earlier when I was 17 but my father didn't want me in the house with a motorcycle license so the MSF certificate expired before I could get the endorsement on my license. Waste of $250. However the Army has an MSF course at Fort Dix which I will be attending this Tuesday which is free!

Can anyone please link me to braided steel brake lines I can order for my front brakes and back brakes?

[90sCafeKid]

The bike has about 22k on the odometer but it doesnt work. It looks worn so I'm guessing maybe 31k or around there.

Are these the Cluch Springs?

which is the right part?

https://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Clutc...ct_top?ie=UTF8

Or...

https://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Clutc...6WBD3M6VR3C4F5

Is there a difference or measurement?

Also are their any XS11 owners in Jersey area?

[Prisoner6]

Are these the Cluch Springs?

which is the right part?

https://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Clutc...ct_top?ie=UTF8

Or...

https://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Clutc...6WBD3M6VR3C4F5

Hey, "Kid" ...

WELCOME to the Forums!

You have some work ahead, but let me assure you ... once you get your E dialed in, you will love it!

Regarding the clutch springs ...

Not too sure about either of your Amazon links, but I can guarantee these are the correct ones for your E:

Barnett Clutch Spring Kit

[Prisoner6]

... Can anyone please link me to braided steel brake lines I can order for my front brakes and back brakes?

Sorry, Kid ...

Meant to include this in my last post!

Have a look at these 2 threads ... both good reads with lots of info:

Stainless lines and more from XJBikes.com

TECHNA-FIT S/S Braided Brake Lines

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As for owners in your neck of the woods ... I believe Gordon (Eastcoaster) lives in New Jersey ... only a couple of hours from you.

Maybe some of our other members near/around you will see this thread and chime in ...

Good Luck with your project!

[TADracer]

As you know you will find this group extremely helpful. What I do since I can ride year round is do a systematic tune-up each Spring. Several years ago I developed a systematic tune-up format that catches about everything. if you PM me your e-mail address I'll be glad to give you a copy in either Excel or PDF format.

In any event, BRAKES !!. Go through the whole system and do not rely on anything being good unless you inspect it.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there again Abel,

Here's one of several tips on replacing the fuseblock.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14052

Take a look around the Mods/Electrical section to see them. Electrical on these bikes really isn't that difficult, mostly simple + and - pathways.

Glad you found out EARLY that almost any shop will NOT work on bikes this old, so you have to learn to work on it yourself! If you can master Human anatomy/physiology, you can master this bike!

Yeah, you'll either need to get a bike lift, or a centerstand that you can just put on with temp bolts/nuts to do work, then take off when done since the pipes get in the way. The OEM pipes were set up and tuned for the best ALL AROUND performance of the bike, both low end throttle response and good mid and top end as well, along with keeping it quiet.

The aftermarket 4-1 pipes will change the power band to a little higher in the rpm range, and some folks report a slight reduction in low rpm throttle strength/response. But folks that have these pipes usually don't run in the 2k range, but more in the 4-5k+ range!

I have 4-1 Mac pipes, and I don't run mine below 3k rpm anyways...I like both the quicker stronger throttle response from that rpm as well as then being able to use engine braking when I come off the throttle vs. the brakes. Also, the charging system is rather weak, and doesn't reach the full charging strength until ~2500+ rpm anyways, so if you run it below that cruising you can actually be discharging the battery!

T.C.