Announcement

**motoman** · 07-23-2016, 04:00 PM

First issue: taking to a local shop to have the work done.
Second issue: carbs need to be CORRECTLY taken apart and cleaned.
Third issue: still having the high idle issues tells me, obviously doubtful carbs were ever even taken apart.......and SURE can't have idle mixtures and sync done correctly at a high idle

Best option: with the wealth of knowlwdge here on this site, remove, take apart carbs and do a proper cleaning of ALL components, re-assemble, install and tune correctly yourself

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**3Phase** · 07-23-2016, 04:32 PM

+1 what motoman wrote.

HarJim', one possible problem is that the vacuum advance can is plugged into the #2 carburetor.

It's a smog setup so the vacuum advance port in the carburetor is drilled ahead of the throttle plate so there is supposed to be zero vacuum at idle with the throttle plates set and synch'd correctly. That's 0, zero, goose egg, none, zilch, zip, nada -- no vacuum signal at all to the vacuum advance can at idle.

When the carbs aren't set correctly then the throttle plate in #2 can be open too far and just barely start to uncover the vacuum advance port and add ignition advance. Naturally, adding advance jumps up the idle speed and makes it harder than a solid Samurai steel sandwich to wrap your head around the problem and fully digest it when you just want to set the idle speed and ride.

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**mack** · 07-24-2016, 06:18 AM

Jim 81

Motoman and 3 phase are correct. The dead give away is the statement about your enrichement cct not working. It obviously hasn't been cleaned. To clean it the plungers have to be removed and to do that you need to spit the rack. The enrichement cct is feed from the pilot tower and to clean that and the three little holes in the top of the barrel, you need to pull out the pilot jets. Obviously the dealer work was a waste of your riding time and money. But a good lesson for you to share with other newer members. I'm in Ontario, if you don't have the tools and place to work, send them to me and I'll clean them and get them back to you pretty quick.

**motoman** · 07-24-2016, 03:38 PM

Originally posted by HarJim81 View Post

I recently posted regarding my 81 xs1100 idle problem . I had the valve seals replaced and then it wouldn't idle proper . When I revved it up it would stick at 4000 rpm . It was suggested that I replace the carb holders and have the carbs synced . So I took it to a local shop and had it done . Holders were replaced , carbs were cleaned and synced . So now after all that it
is still idling too fast . Its still at 2100 in neutral . Adjusting the idle screw doesnt help . Also when its cold and you use the choke it doesn't rev up and warm up . It stumbles and shuts off . What the heck is going on here ? I wanna be riding ... what are we missing ? All thoughts are welcome . Thanks , Harry

There lies the main issue

.........if ya can't or don't wanna learn mechanics and these bikes, your gonna be continuely plagued with these issues and more. I suspect valves incorrectly shimmed and incorrectly or non correct idle mixture setting along with no or incorrect sync done.........need to learn to do this stuff yourself on these older machines, OR buy a way newer scoot

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To resolve: Us folks here are WAY ahead of ANY bike shop having to do with elec., carbs, etc. of these ole' bikes.......may as well jump in with both feet and ask questions here!

**HarJim81** · 07-26-2016, 06:07 PM

idle problem

Thanks for the feedback guys . I did have the carbs cleaned by a mechanic a couple years back . And then I got them synced by the guy who did the work last week . The bike worked well except for the fact that the choke wasn't working well . It wouldn't idle up and stay there. It would stumble and shut off . I had to turn off the choke and warm it up with the throttle. Then it worked fine . I didn't try doing it myself because I've been working on projects around the house . I was hoping I could just drop the bike at the shop and pick it up and just be set for the summer . Not !! Also I don't have the tools to sync the carbs . Anyway, I spent the day cleaning up my garage and taking the carbs off the bike . So what do I do next ? I've spent too much on these carbs to still have this problem !! Grrrrrrrr ! Lol someone mentioned valve shims . Is that a major project ? Looking forward to hearing from you guys on what to do next. Thanks , Harry.

**TopCatGr58** · 07-26-2016, 07:25 PM

Hey there Harry,

If you haven't seen this one, here's the Carb Cleaning 101 tip...surprisingly it's in the REPAIR/Carb-fuel section, not in the Maintenance section??

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36017

The starting problem is most likely due to the small starting jets down in the float bowls are still clogged. Can take small pieces of wire to gently poke down in there, then spritzing with carb cleaner(Wear Goggles

) and repeat until you get cleaner to spray out the tube in the edge of the bowl, or squirt into that tube and see it spray out the JET!

You may not need to do much more, but it won't hurt and won't put you at risk of breaking the float posts to remove the MAIN JET, and the Main Jet Nozzle/emulsion tube....after you've taken the top, spring/diaphragm out. SEE the tech tip on how to do that, then inspect and clean as needed. Same for Pilot jet.

T.C.

**MarkD** · 07-26-2016, 07:42 PM

+1 on T.C.'s comments on the starting jets/ passages in the bottom of fuel bowls. My 'choke'/enrichener had no effect upon pulling it out due to clogged jets. After thorough cleaning, everything works perfectly.

**skids** · 07-26-2016, 08:45 PM

If you spray carb cleaner with a straw, it may clean out that passage in the bowl and spray you right in the face! Beware... :-)

**Radioguylogs** · 07-26-2016, 09:41 PM

Other members have more experience, but...

It seems to me that if the enricher circuits were plugged, the starting behavior would get better or stay the same when the choke was applied. If it starts more easily with by throttle only, seems rich.

So far, I have experienced high idle sticking from three causes:
(1) Wrong pilot jet in K&L kits
(2) Vacuum leaks
(3) Overly rich Idle Mixture screw settings

Number (3) might be low hanging fruit?

FYI: Number (2) is usually more prevalent when the engine is hot.

**HarJim81** · 07-27-2016, 11:08 AM

idle problem

I pulled the carbs apart . They are pretty clean . I sprayed everything with cleaner anyway . I pulled the jets out and checked them . ALL GOOD ! Someone mentioned something about the #2 carb regarding the choke ? I'm not sure what to look for ? I don't have time today to get everything back together . Probably on the weekend . How do I adjust the mixture screws when I get the carbs back on ? Should I invest in the gauges for syncing the carbs ?
Thanks , Harry

**motoman** · 07-27-2016, 12:24 PM

Originally posted by HarJim81 View Post

I pulled the carbs apart . They are pretty clean . I sprayed everything with cleaner anyway . I pulled the jets out and checked them . ALL GOOD ! Someone mentioned something about the #2 carb regarding the choke ? I'm not sure what to look for ? I don't have time today to get everything back together . Probably on the weekend . How do I adjust the mixture screws when I get the carbs back on ? Should I invest in the gauges for syncing the carbs ?
Thanks , Harry

Yup.....Morgan Carb Tune would be your best bet. Initial bench setting for mixture screws would be 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated, then started, warmed up and a box fan in front of motor IS needed in order to actually do idle mixture setting on all four mixture screws

. Fan is to keep motor from overheating while adjustments are made, including carb sync

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**jwhughes3** · 07-27-2016, 01:05 PM

THis is the set that BA80 has and uses on his carb sync:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Motorcyc...NXYYAF&vxp=mtr

You can make your own from 4 of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Oil-Filled...MAAOSwcvdXO6AK

but the hassle of collecting the odd bits and hoses etc isn't worth the time saved.

John

**TopCatGr58** · 07-27-2016, 06:48 PM

Originally posted by HarJim81 View Post

I pulled the carbs apart . They are pretty clean . I sprayed everything with cleaner anyway . I pulled the jets out and checked them . ALL GOOD ! Someone mentioned something about the #2 carb regarding the choke ? I'm not sure what to look for ? I don't have time today to get everything back together . Probably on the weekend . How do I adjust the mixture screws when I get the carbs back on ? Should I invest in the gauges for syncing the carbs ?
Thanks , Harry

Harry,

The FLOAT BOWL JETS are pressed into the bowl, you can't remove them, but they easily clog down there in the bottom of the float bowl. The brass tube on the carb body that sticks out, goes down into that hole in the edge of the float bowl, that's the STRAW that the enrichener circuit sucks the fuel up with, but IF that bowl jet is clogged, then it can't suck fuel, and that's why the CHOKE doesn't work or help when trying to start COLD.

While you're at it, spritz cleaner up into that brass tube and ensure that it comes out in the enrichener plunger recess.

T.C.

**HarJim81** · 07-28-2016, 06:54 PM

idle problem

I pulled the carbs apart . Removed all the jets and sprayed everything really well . I couldn't find any problems. They didn't look very dirty . Hopefully if there was an issue , I cleared it up. I'm in the process of putting them back together and getting them back on the bike . I reset the mixture screws to 2.5 turns . See what happens . I ordered a set of sync gauges . Should have them in the next couple weeks . Hopefully all this effort ends with a happy bike !!

Announcement

Idle problem !!! continued ....

Idle problem !!! continued ....

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