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  • Base gasket woes

    I've removed my cylinder block for cleaning and reboring, but the the base gasket seems to be welded to it. I've tried razor blades, scraping, paint remover, etc. but it's a long slow process getting it off, and, of course, I don't want to mess up the sealing surface.

    Does anyone have any suggestions?

  • #2
    Just as you said, it is a long slow process....

    There are a couple pry locations in the front lower edge that are a very little bit of help, but not much. Biggest problem is that so much crap gets caked on the bolts and fills up the holes and then that sleeve that is over the bolts makes it really hard to lift the cylinders.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey Nate,

      I think he said that he already removed the cylinders, but it's the remaining gasket material that he's worried about getting off.

      Thom, the base gasket isn't under any real pressure for sealing. Some folks have just put it back together with Threebond stuff and no gasket. With no gasket or very thin layer of sealant vs. the thicker gasket "MAY" provide a little increase in compression by placing the piston a little closer to the head!

      So....aside from trying to be delicate in removing the remnants of the gasket....I would get a brass wire wheel brush on a drill and go after it, and then use the 3bond sealant.

      T.C.
      T. C. Gresham
      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
      History shows again and again,
      How nature points out the folly of men!

      Comment


      • #4
        Install the O-Rings

        Originally posted by sthomag View Post
        I've removed my cylinder block for cleaning and reboring,
        Sthomag,
        If you're having it re-bored the machine shop can clean that thing spotless by giving it a quick dip in their bath. They will possibly do that anyway as a precursor to boring. They want clean surfaces too before they start on boring.

        Otherwise, there is a permatex gasket remover product available in a spay can that will be very helpful in removing any stubborn gaskets. It doesn't do all the work, but it will soften the thing so scraping it off is very easy.

        Personally, I'm an advocate of a gasket vs sealant only. Regardless of your choice of gasketing, the individual cylinder O-rings are not an option. They must be installed.

        KURT
        Kurt Boehringer
        Peachtree City, Georgia

        1970 - CT70K0 - Mini-Trail
        1978 - SR500 - Thumper
        1979 - CT70H - Mini-Trail
        1979 - XS1100SF - Pensacola
        1980 - XS850SG - Rocky
        1980 - XS1100SG - The Ugly Duck
        1980 - XS1100SG - Mayberry Duck
        1981 - XS1100SH - DEAD Duck Cafe'
        1981 - XJ550 Maxim - Nancy's Mini-Max
        1982 - XJ650 SECA - Hurricane
        1986 - FJ1200 - Georgia Big Red
        1992 - FZR1000 - Genesis
        2016 - FJR1300A - Montgomery

        Comment


        • #5
          Do you have a gasket scraper?

          If you don't have one, a good gasket scraper tool is indispensable.

          I am really pleased with the one I bought from Part-N-More.
          -Mike
          _________
          '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
          '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
          '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
          '79 XS750SF 17k miles
          '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
          '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
          '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

          Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

          Comment


          • #6
            My 2cents...

            Concerning base gaskets...

            My personal experience has been this-

            There are a couple of choices for those gaskets... the "green" ones that come in a multi-gasket kit, or the individual base gasket from Yamaha.

            Multi-gasket kit price= $50
            Yamaha Base gasket = $50.

            But, take it from me, cheaping out here may cost you big in the near future!
            On the back side, at the center of the base, you will see a 2" section that juts out. Those green kit gaskets are thinner material, there seems to be a lack of head bolt sealing pressure in that area, and even though the oil's not under much pressure in that area, the green gaskets WILL blow out not long after you put it together, and you WILL have a huge, messy oil leak there!

            The Yamaha gasket is thicker, and does seal much better.

            Now, you might use 3bond with the green gasket and have luck, or you may just use 3bond ONLY and get lucky. But, after what I went through after using the green gasket, I'd spend the money and get the Yamaha gasket. In the end, it's cheap insurance.

            I'll tell ya this much... oil leaks on a bike SUCKS! Lol...
            YMMV, though... just advice from someone who's BTDT. (May only be worth 2 cents??)

            Bob
            Last edited by XJOK2PLAY; 07-21-2016, 11:03 PM.
            '82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

            '79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

            2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

            In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
            "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

            Comment


            • #7
              Base Gasket

              When I did my last one, I used the Yamaha (thicker) base gasket and have no issues. My compression numbers are 168, 169, 171 and 169 cold. I remember it was a real bitch to get the old one off. I put the set of jugs in my ultra sonic cleaner and allowed it to do all the work then took it outside and power washed it with the hottest water I could get out of the tap. That combination got rid of all the gasket, bugs, road tar, oxidization and everything else. Then I took it get the 1179 bore completed and they dipped it again.
              mack
              79 XS 1100 SF Special
              HERMES
              original owner
              http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg

              81 XS 1100 LH MNS
              SPICA
              http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg

              78 XS 11E
              IOTA
              https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
              https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA



              Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
              Frankford, Ont, Canada
              613-398-6186

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by XJOK2PLAY View Post
                My 2cents...



                The Yamaha gasket is thicker, and does seal much better.


                Bob
                Where does one find a genuine Yamaha base gasket?

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you google this P/N, you will find several sources...

                  2H7-11351-01-00 is the base gasket.

                  The O-ring P/N is 93210-77363-00
                  Last edited by bikerphil; 07-22-2016, 07:32 AM.
                  2H7 (79)
                  3H3

                  "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                  ☮

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Well, the I figured out the reason for the base gasket being cemented to the bottom of the cylinder block. Somebody apparently used old-fashioned Permatex, which is shellac-based. The only thing that will shift it is alcohol.

                    Once I discovered that, getting it off was a lot easier.

                    Thanks for the tip about the using the stock gasket. I managed to find an NOS one.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by kboehringer View Post
                      [/I]Regardless of your choice of gasketing, the individual cylinder O-rings are not an option. They must be installed.

                      KURT
                      could you tell me the purpose of the cylinder O-rings? I'm a little new at this.
                      Last edited by werdna80; 03-20-2017, 05:23 AM.
                      80 G

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        They do the real sealing between the jugs and the base. It keeps the oil from leaking between the base and each cylinder. I know, there is a gasket, BUT the o rings keep the oil from creeping up the outside of the cylinder, between the steel sleeve and the aluminum.
                        Ray Matteis
                        KE6NHG
                        XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                        XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Just curious- having never done any major overhaul on my engine besides cylinder head work, if I break the engine down past the jugs to replace the base gasket, can I just reassemble it? Or, does the cylinders have to be honed, rings replaced, etc.?
                          1979 XS1100F
                          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            It depends on the condition of the engine. At about 50K Kilometers, you should be able to take it apart and re-assemble it without honing. You MUST keep all parts in the same location, but if it's just to replace the gasket and o rings, the pistons would stay on the rods anyway.
                            Ray Matteis
                            KE6NHG
                            XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                            XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks Ray. I'm thinking about doing this, and just being done with it.
                              1979 XS1100F
                              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                              Comment

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