Starting help..please

[DeanR]

Put my carbs back on recently after a cleaning which they really didn't need...spick and span clean.
Started right up as if it ran yesterday (it's actually been about a year). Then within 5 or 10 seconds the revs suddenly shot Way Up and I turned the key off right away. Whatever is going on now, started right then.

It's now 99% dead. No headlight. Only thing happening is a faint brief glow of the oil light and neutral light when the key is turned on. Also a barely audible squeak from the horn. Battery is very new...12.7 volts.
It's always on a Deltran Battery Tender.

Fuses are fine (TC's fusebox), including the main glass fuse on the left side.
I now do not know what to check/do and want to get this thing going.

I know you all can point me in the right direction!!

[HalfCentury]

I would trace the battery ground cable to where it attaches to the frame. Dismount the cable end from the frame. Go at the cable end and the frame attachment spot with a Dremel wire wheel. Or just use sandpaper if you don't have a Dremel.

Check all the connections of the MAIN (30A) circuit. This circuit feeds all of the other circuits if I understand the schematic correctly.

Are you monitoring the battery voltage under load? The dim lights indicate that there is voltage droop somewhere in the circuit. Make sure the voltage droop is not a defective battery. If not, use a multimeter to find out where the voltage is being dropped.

[TopCatGr58]

Dean,

GLASS MAIN FUSE!? Double check that thing, pull it out, pul on both ends of the fuse, put an Ohmmeter on it, make sure it has continuity, or replace it. You need to get a single ATCO solid fuse holder and wire that thing in there in place of that glass one!!! Make sure it's rated for 30 amps!

Next, check the key switch, jiggle it a bit and see if the oil/neutral light flickers a bit...that switch can get corroded also, can be taken apart and cleaned.

You're going to need to vac. synch those carbs. But for it to just jump revs like that, are you sure you turned the fuel on for both petocks!?

T.C.

[DeanR]

Well it seems the problem is the battery.

I have been under the false impression that it was an AGM battery, like my other bikes. So it has been completely ignored other than always on the Battery Tender Jr. It's a regular old Interstate.

Discovered this when I removed it yesterday. Lots of cells low on water.
It's now being charged (I hope), to see if it can recover and spring to life.

Simple stuff first, right?

TC, I've thought that most people keep that original main 30 amp fuse without a problem.

[DiverRay]

TC, I've thought that most people keep that original main 30 amp fuse without a problem.

Usually we run the wires from the 30A main to the T.C. fuse box and put a 30A fuse there for the main. One location, all the fuses.

[HalfCentury]

Yep, position #1 of the new blade fuse panel is the 30A MAIN circuit.

[DeanR]

So being the electrical genius that I am, I'm assuming I cut 2 of the red wires in the picture(which ones?) and connect them back up to the TC fusebox.

About to order either a Big Crank ETX18L Battery (Same as Deka, made in PA) or an Odyssey PC680 Battery (also made in USA) from Battery Mart
http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cra...L-Battery.html

I know the Deka has been used by a few people here. Just making sure it fits in the plastic tray??
Real close fit for width based on their measurements.

[DiverRay]

Cut the two wires at the fuse block, on the white connector side. The order doesn't matter, but just put them together in the fuse block.
As for the battery, I have the PC680 in my BMW. Been there for 3+ years, and I love it. If it's parked for three weeks, just hit the button and off I go!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dean,

I can't speak for the battery, I have a Vietnamese model AGM unit called Scorpion brand. I almost killed it last year draining it down to ~3 volts, but was able to pulse charge it back up to 12.8 volts!

As to the wires, cut them as close to the old fuse holder as possible, strip it back a little and attach the crimp on connectors and plug it into the fuse holder.

I'm glad folks have used the fuseblock. However, I have it stated in the the Mini tech tip I send out when I mail them out, that the entire panel is only rated for a total of 65 amps. With the 30 main, then 10 ign, 10 headlight, 20 turn, 10 tail, that's 80!? Thankfully it's a 6 slot block, and most only needing 4 slots for the others, this allows a BLANK space between the main and the rest, which can help cut down on heat buildup! YMMV!

Would like to hear from some of the electrical gurus regarding the safety of this practice of the 30 amp in the same block with the other fuses knowing the amp rating!?

T.C.

[DeanR]

I have a nice inline fuse holder from Eastern Beaver that I could use. I'll see how others respond to your question TC.

[3Phase]

I'd have to say, "No!" but it depends and if you have to ask then don't do it!

There are several 6-pole 80A or 100A rated automotive fuse blocks but I don't know if they'd fit under the side cover.

A simple inline fuse works fine and it's a lot less money, it's just not as spiffy as the stock fuse holder that fits its little mounting tab on the frame. I put a 50A manual-reset circuit breaker on my '80G to replace the Main fuse but I've modified the wiring harness, it is not stock. There are 30A and 40A breakers available too but they're spendy.

.

[DeanR]

Looks like this will bolt right up in the original position.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A19WTQH4N07PTC

[3Phase]

Ooh, waterproof and everything, stylin'!

.

[HalfCentury]

Hey Dean,

I can't speak for the battery, I have a Vietnamese model AGM unit called Scorpion brand. I almost killed it last year draining it down to ~3 volts, but was able to pulse charge it back up to 12.8 volts!

As to the wires, cut them as close to the old fuse holder as possible, strip it back a little and attach the crimp on connectors and plug it into the fuse holder.

I'm glad folks have used the fuseblock. However, I have it stated in the the Mini tech tip I send out when I mail them out, that the entire panel is only rated for a total of 65 amps. With the 30 main, then 10 ign, 10 headlight, 20 turn, 10 tail, that's 80!? Thankfully it's a 6 slot block, and most only needing 4 slots for the others, this allows a BLANK space between the main and the rest, which can help cut down on heat buildup! YMMV!

Would like to hear from some of the electrical gurus regarding the safety of this practice of the 30 amp in the same block with the other fuses knowing the amp rating!?

T.C.

Hi TC

The ratings for each circuit is not the same as what the circuits are actually drawing. To know what each circuit is drawing would require measuring each circuit in real-time while the bike is operating. To do that properly would require installing a shunt in each circuit and monitoring the voltage across each shunt. A multi-channel data logger would be the most practical device to allow you to drive the bike around in different conditions and get the results of real-world current draw for each circuit.

That feels too much like a major project to me and I don't own a portable battery-operated multi-channel data logger with voltmeter capabilities.

A simpler scheme would be to install just one shunt in the main circuit and monitor the voltage across that shunt from the handlebars with a simple voltmeter while riding.

Anybody could do that. That might be something I would sign up for when all of my maintenance issues are solved and my XJ1100 is back on the road.

[DiverRay]

Would like to hear from some of the electrical gurus regarding the safety of this practice of the 30 amp in the same block with the other fuses knowing the amp rating!?

The heat should NOT be a factor. The 30A main is only pulling about 20~25A with everything on. Heat is a factor of resistance and load. Resistance is futile Uh, I mean resistance is very low with the blade fuse, probably less that 0.1 ohm. So heat for the block is about 3~6 watts, 10 watts on a bad day. spread across the mount block, not much.