78E New proud owner

[dbbrian]

.....also, as mentioned in this other link, its consuming oil. Last 600 km went from top line to 2/3 below or 1/3 above bottom line, a few minutes after stopping last night. Checked level again after all night sit and its 3/4 down.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...vel#post488794



I put in some MMO tonight, started the engine, warmed up a bit, shifted through gears on centre stand a few times at 1500 rpm, and shut it off. Will change oil tomorrow.

I will keep things all in one thread from now on.

[MaximPhil]

.....also, as mentioned in this other link, its consuming oil. Last 600 km went from top line to 2/3 below or 1/3 above bottom line, a few minutes after stopping last night. Checked level again after all night sit and its 3/4 down.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...vel#post488794



I put in some MMO tonight, started the engine, warmed up a bit, shifted through gears on centre stand a few times at 1500 rpm, and shut it off. Will change oil tomorrow.

I will keep things all in one thread from now on.

Hi Brian,
Nice ride on Sunday
A bit of a mystery as it is not leaking out and having ridden behind you it is neither smoking nor smelling of oil burn.
Is the residue in the air box perhaps oil from the crankcase breather rather than gas from the carbs?
Phil

[dbbrian]

Hi Brian,
Nice ride on Sunday
A bit of a mystery as it is not leaking out and having ridden behind you it is neither smoking nor smelling of oil burn.
Is the residue in the air box perhaps oil from the crankcase breather rather than gas from the carbs?
Phil

Yes it was a nice ride Phil.

Could be the breather, I've been trying different searches because I know I read something a while back about oil getting in there somehow. Is that normal?

[DiverRay]

Phil said:

Is the residue in the air box perhaps oil from the crankcase breather rather than gas from the carbs?

I agree, it's from the breather. If the rings are not sealing, the breather pumps out oil, in small amounts.

[MaximPhil]

Yes it was a nice ride Phil.

Could be the breather, I've been trying different searches because I know I read something a while back about oil getting in there somehow. Is that normal?

Hi Brian,
I'll let those with more knowledge answer that question.
Phil

[dbbrian]

Changed Dirty Oil

Oil & filter got changed tonight. Man was it dirty, after 2300km looks opaque, silty, grey-brown.

Put in exactly 3.5 litres. Didn't quite come up to the top line of the window.

Went for a gentle cool (for a change) evening ride.

When warming the oil before emptying, and while riding I'm getting popping on right side at rpms below 3500.ish, noticed for a while now, not just since tonight.

I tried dripping some gas on the intake boots of carb 3 & 4, but didn't get any reaction, maybe didn't get in there well enough either for a good test.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Brian,
How is your Tire shopping coming along? Have you decided which brand to go with?

Anyone have a picture of the "WIRE" for holding the swingarm while changing tires on a Standard ?
Phil

[dbbrian]

Yep - already bought the shinko 230's. They will be on tomorrow night. Will be glad to say goodbye to the old tires.

Found an in stock wire tool, about $60 USD plus shipping. A bit more than I'm wanting to spend on a piece if wire that I'm still not sure I even need

[MaximPhil]

Yep - already bought the shinko 230's. They will be on tomorrow night. Will be glad to say goodbye to the old tires.

Found an in stock wire tool, about $60 USD plus shipping. A bit more than I'm wanting to spend on a piece if wire that I'm still not sure I even need

That is a bit pricey for what it is. I recall someone removing the shocks to enable raising the swing arm to get the axle out. Try a search of rear wheel removal threads.
Phil

[3Phase]

... Anyone have a picture of the "WIRE" for holding the swingarm while changing tires on a Standard ?
Phil

Were you wanting to see the wire or just how it works? I have both but the cartoon from the fine manual is probably more helpful:

[dbbrian]

Thanks for the picture.. Much better than the copy of the manual I found. I guess if I had the wire it might become apparent what happens. Seen opposing views on whether its needed or not. I wanted my tires on and done, so I paid a shop, and unfortunately didn't see how they did it. Might see the guys on Saturday and ask them.

Good news is, I have new Shinko 230's, and wow - what a difference! I have way more confidence in leaning the bike over on curves and just going down the straights without feeling like the front wheel is going all over the place.

So now 2 new things to improve that I could use help with:

1. Now, at higher speeds like above 100km, it would be nice to get rid of that twisting frame sensation when cornering and hitting a bump for example. Is the tkat fork brace the answer?

2. My idle was consistently at 1400 when fully warmed up. On my ride home tonight after 1/2 hour or so, came to a stop and the idle was much higher, 2100 - 2200 rpm. No idea why it is different now. I am tempted to adjust the master idle screw but wondering why it would be different. Tire change wouldn't affect it. Bought gas, can't imagine that did it.

[MaximPhil]

Shinko 230

Hi Brian,
If you do not already you should start a book to keep track of things about your bike. like oil changes tires etc.
I know there are a few of us who are interested to hear how the 230 tires hold up. So measure the tread depth and record. There will be questions in the future

Phil

[dbbrian]

Couldn't sit still knowing those new tires on on the bike, so went out for scoot to try and wear some nubbies off and see about this idle issue if still there.

On my favorite test strip - rolled on throttle and took up to bout 155km - smooth as silk and can't believe how the bike rolls over side to side / flip flop, cracks and pavement irregularities are no issue whatsoever, and I can actually take my hands off the bars and coast without fear. Something I dare not try with the old tires.

At the shop today, the mechanic came out to tell me about a tail light bulb burnt out - he replaced it, as well as pointing out the white diffuser plastic lense inside the red lense has fallen loose, and had melted a little where it must have rested on the two bulbs. So I took the piece to glue back in later.

But before I went out tonight, I noticed one rear bulb burnt out. And, the light did not brighten with applied brakes. Damn. Started getting steamed at myself for not changing my own tires. Switched good bulb for bad, no difference.

Went for a 10 minute ride anyway - cool air was good for my mood.

The idle seemed back to normal - ~1400rmp. After about 30 minutes of getting lost opn back county roads, I made t back to town and felt the heat of the motor, and noticed the idle a bit higher, ~1700rpm. Rode around town to see if it would go higher / get hotter, did Snake Hill just to compare the before and after on those new Shinko's ...no change in the idle, so went home.

Checked my light, and now no lights at all. Both burnt out. Damn.

Driving in the cool air had me thinking, maybe my terst ride in the rain last weekend wasn't as successful as I thought. But does my carb have electrical problems?

[MaximPhil]

Hi Brian,
I will leave the carbs to someone who knows.
Your tail lights definitely have an electrical problem. I would start by looking/following the wires under the fender as the tire change may have rearranged something under there.
Contact cleaner in the sockets would be next. Clean ground connections as they need constant cleaning in my experience
Phil

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Brian,

As the engine warms up, it takes less fuel to keep it running/idling, and so it's normal for the idle speed to rise up a bit, so YES, adjust the MAIN idle screw to turn it back down to around the 11-1200 rpm range when it's truly warmed up/hot. You will probably find that you may have to keep the enrichener on a little longer when first starting/running cold, and that the idle may be a little lower when not fully warmed up, but hopefully not to where you have to keep your hand on the throttle at a stop.

As to the tail lights, are you running AUTOMOTIVE bulbs...their filaments aren't as strong as Motorcycle specific bulbs, and the vibration can cause them to blow out quicker.
Check your brake light switch. But as stated, cleaning contacts and ensuring grounds are critical to getting them to work and stay working.

T.C.