78E New proud owner

[Prisoner6]

... Now, to find an Owner manual, and service manual. They must be on this website somewhere....a hunting I will go.

... The guy that hosts the manuals on his private server/account, well the site it down right now, not sure if it's due to all of the bad weather in the midwest which is where he is??

Brian,

The website hosting the manuals is up now ... here is the link:

Marshall Ringler's Website

Look for the "Resources for riders" section on the right side of the page, then scroll down to find the appropriate manual ... and download away!

[dbbrian]

Downloaded a few manuals - thanks for the link.

I see the Owners Manual is for the XJ, not the XS. Any differences in the manual for those two bikes?

Or better still, anyone have a PDF of the XS1100E Owners Manual?

What about parts lists / numbers with the exploded diagrams and part numbers identified? Anyone have those?

[Prisoner6]

The XS and XJ Owner's Manuals will be different from each other.

To see exploded parts diagrams with part numbers, go here:

1978 XS1100E Yamaha Motorcycle Parts

What's your pleasure ... Carburetor? Middle Drive? Clutch?

It's all there ...

Hope that helps!

[dbbrian]

Thanks. The Yamaha deal didn't have the o-ring #4 in the picture here http://prntscr.com/baubtt for the oil filter bolt

Do you guys change those every oil filter change?

[dbbrian]

...As to the OIL level, and the fact that the bike has sat for 2 years, you need to watch out for the carbs leaking/flooding due to the METAL float needle valves/seats. The petcocks on the standard are vacuum controlled, but they can still develop leaks. If they both leak the fuel can flood the carbs and flow forward into the intake/engine and past the rings into the OIL! This thinned oil can then cause you to spin bearings and destroy the engine. When the gas gets into the oil, it can raise the "oil level" way above the full line. Check the oil for presence of gas in it, and if so, you'll need to drain/change it and the filter, but fix the carbs/petcocks first. Also the oil level window can just get gunked up from old oil/crud. If you have someone to help, you can watch the window as you slowly put it over on the side stand and see if you can see the level drop in the window. If Not, then you can also try putting a piece of rag on a piece of wire/metal that can reach thru the oil filler hole down to the window and try wiping it clear enough to see thru it.
If there doesn't seem to be gas in the oil, you should probably still drain it due to it's age. Prior to doing that, put a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil, slowly run it on the centerstand for a few minutes, use a box fan across the engine to help keep it cool, go thru the gears working the clutch as well to help the MMO get in between the plates for better cleaning action. YES the shift to 1st from neutral is a prominent CLUNK, there are techniques to minimize this affect, from holding the clutch lever in for 10-15 seconds to allow the gears to slow down their spinning before slamming them together.
The other is after bike is warmed up, shut it off, shift into 1st, and then restart it while holding the clutch in.


The cam chain tensioner leaks both from the large rubber end caps but can also leak from the O-ring around the locking bolt/nut combo. NOWADAYS, we highly recommend installing an Automatic Cam Chain Tensioner (ACCT) or Mod the OEM unit depending on both your mechanical ability and what you think once you read thru this thread...

I took a little oil out with a straw. I can't tell if there is gas in it for sure. Its not clean new oil, and smells different than my clean jug I bought. But not cruddy blocking the window. Is there a way to tell for sure? I hope there is not gas in it.

Where do I find an ACCT? Someone here sells them?

[Prisoner6]

I took a little oil out with a straw. I can't tell if there is gas in it for sure. Its not clean new oil, and smells different than my clean jug I bought. But not cruddy blocking the window. Is there a way to tell for sure? I hope there is not gas in it.

Where do I find an ACCT? Someone here sells them?

Well, Brian -

Speaking as one who has had gas in his oil, I can tell you that the smell will be unmistakable. If there is gas in your oil, you'll know it.

If you can't smell even a hint of gas, then you're probably OK.

But, if there is no gas in the oil, follow TC's instructions about using the MMO in the crankcase and running the engine on the centerstand.

Then, drain and refill with fresh oil and a new filter.

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ACCT - Here is the thread showing the ACCT mod (with pics):

Automatic Cam Chain Tensioners

There are ACCT's from many bikes that will fit, but don't let the daunting list at the bottom of the thread bother you.

The ACCT from either a V-max 1200 V-4 or a Venture 1200 V-4 seems to be the one that is the most "plug-n-play" ... YMMV

These are almost always readily available on E-bay for a very low price.

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Oh ... about the oil filter bolt o-ring ... I can't speak for anyone else, but I do change that o-ring and the filter housing o-ring with every oil change.

Cheap insurance, IMHO ...

And ... +1 on using the Seafoam treatment. I use it in all my vehicles.

[dbbrian]

A little update

So I got over my paranoia and decided there's not likely gas in the oil. Yes, its too high, but not that high, I put the bike over on side stand and it disappears from window, and after a few more smell tests....

So in went the MMO (found it at Walfart for any other Canadians looking for it) and put some Seafoam in the gas tank and fired her up. Put the box fan out to after a couple minutes.

So the first thing I noticed is the #2 pipe was cooler at least before the others got too hot to hand touch for comparison. Then while crouched down on the left I hear a sucking sound near carbs. The petcock to boot hose was replaced with a clear plastic tube, and has a melted hole!

[IMG][/IMG]

I could put my finger on it and it sucked it on...so the vacuum works anyway. So I need some hose.

I also noted there was a drip coming from the clamp at the bottom of header #2. I could not see a source from above.



I tried so hard to see, getting under with my flashlight, straining and shuffling, I actually touched my LIP TO THE HEADER!!! Its not bad don't worry, and go ahead and laugh, I am, minor blemish blister, but I guess its ok to love your new bike...just don't LOOOOVE your new bike - lol.

So, could this leak be related to the vacuum hose, fuel / oil spilling into the header?

Then, I looked at the fuse box again, having read about the original being glass tubes, and had noticed mine were't. Here's the mod someone did. Nice little rubber capsules enclosing the fuses. Some lamacoid labelling, and on the left you can see the tip of the cut-off switch pointing towards the rear tire.
[IMG][/IMG]

Oh, and I shifted through the gears while running, and on the centre stand. Kept the revs fairly low. The transmission sure seems noisy and clunky. Perhaps it just seems that way to me by copmparison to my sewing machine-like CB350F.

All comments, help, and laughter welcome!

Brian

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Brian,

I just replied to your PM, should have checked the threads first, glad you figured that it hadn't leaked fuel into the oil. Also glad you found the vac. leak on #2, once that's fixed, that pipe should then get equally as hot as the others provided the carbs are clean/tuned properly. With MMO in the oil, it may let it shift a bit noisier, and the fact that you kept the rpms down also can let you hear the shifts easier. Once you get fresh 20/50 oil in there, that will help to quieten the noise along with being able to run the bike on the road and taking the rpms up to ~5 k before shifting, USE THE CLUTCH, and do a quick release of the throttle at the same time will let it upshift easier and probably a bit quieter. The SHIFT into 1st from neutral will still be clunky, I think I posted recently a technique to avoid that.

Now, as to the leak on the header.....don't know, but your oil filter cup is not positioned correctly. There are 2 angles that stick out on the cup, they are supposed to go towards the rear and fit into similar slots in the case, they are there to help keep the cup from spinning once you get the filter bolt screwed in far enough so you can then put the proper torque on it without the cup spinning.

Hey, we had a fellow on XSSE last year that took his bike over the side on a series of twisties, didn't get hurt at all during the jump off and slide! However, after taking his helmet off, was around his bike checking it out for damage and hit the top of his bald/shaved head on the header pipe and got a burn!

T.C.

[dbbrian]

Warmed engine a few minutes, drained oil - let it drip, changed the filter and made sure to put the filter cover on the right way not like PO, put in 3.5 litres and guess what - the oil level looks too high. Although when its running its perfect. So, is it mean to be viewed in that little window while running? Give me a dipstick any day.

While waiting for the oil to drain, I noticed #1 cylinder plug boot didn't look quite seated same as others. Found the spark plug still had that little cap on it so removed it and the boot fits on good now.

I found a piece of fuel line sized to suit the vacuum, and put it on to see if it helped with the cold #2. Started up the bike and it runs better, but the pipe was cold. So its looking like carb issues.

I backed the bike out of the garage, and off I went for a little scoot around a few blocks. What a blast!!!

I can tell its not running quite right yet, the #2 pipe has warmed, but not as hot as the others. Still hoping that seafoam will unclog things. The clutch engages rasther abrubtly at almosty complete realese of the lever. Hope its just and adjustment issue. The transmission shifts good, although still seems clunky to me, but it was 35 years ago I last rode an XS11. Theres a lot of talk on the SOHC4.com forum about adding zinc, or buying oils with it (like Spectro) at least 1200 some units of zinc for better transmission function. Havene't found that chatter here yet.

Put the bike in garage, no apparent oil leaks, so I think I did OK. Can't wait until I have plates and insurance

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Brian,

There are 2 points of adjustment for the clutch. You want to do the one at the ENGINE first, see the manual for the how to. THEN you can adjust the freeplay at the handlebar to set the release point to your hand comfort.

Hope the SeaFoam works, but have patience, may take a tank or two for it to eat away at the gum in the jets. But you may end up eventually having to tear into them for a proper cleaning.

No, the oil level is to be checked with the engine OFF. A little extra oil probably won't hurt anything. About 3.5 quarts with oil and filter sounds about right, and some engines burn a little, so having a little extra can help there.

T.C.

[Prisoner6]

Warmed engine a few minutes, drained oil - let it drip, changed the filter and made sure to put the filter cover on the right way not like PO, put in 3.5 litres and guess what - the oil level looks too high. Although when its running its perfect.

Brian,

For your '78E ... when you change the oil filter as part of an oil drain/refill, then 3.5L is exactly the amount of oil you should use to refill the crankcase.

So ... you're right on the money there. You didn't overfill it.


P.S. It's a good idea to check the oil level sight glass as part of every pre-ride inspection.

[dbbrian]

Clutch Adjusting

Clutch adjustment help please

I followed the manual, and turning in the screw till it bottomed out / seated. It was stiff as described in the service manual and took a minute to realize what that meant and unfortunately I did not take note of the position it started in (1/4 turn out or not) before I turned it.

I adjusted the cable length at leaver - quite a bit of releasing the tension, and thought I better find out of this clutch is still dis-engaging before I start it up.

In gear lever pulled and hand turning the back wheel - it is in gear still....dam.

So started trying adjustments at leaver and checking, at one point the lever could not be pulled all the way in, still engaged. Backed it off, no luck

And then the cable seemed to break. It pulled out of the clutch end - looked like I broke it...dam.
[IMG][/IMG]

After some investigation I think its fine, but I am worried bout this coming out again at a bad time I had to take the little arm off the shaft to get t he cable back on, there jusrt ewas not enough slack with the cable adjuster loosened off all the way. Here is my fix
[IMG][/IMG]

So still have the problem of the clutch not seeming to dis-engage. Note on that photo the lock nut is not on the adjuster screw fully. When I started it was. There is also a lock washer on there, figure that is not stock but kept it on.

Any suggestions?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Brian,

It looks like you've got the throwout SCREW turned in way too far. Also sounds like you might have skimmed the manual and didn't quite get the gist of how to perform the adjustment.

LOOSEN THE LOCK NUT. UNSCREW the center screw OUTWARDS away from the engine until it's very loose, and you can't feel any real resistance when turning it.

THEN, slowly turn the screw back inwards CW using just your fingers on the screwdriver, not your whole hand grip, until you just feel the resistance of the screw against the throwout bearing. The bearing can be pushed in farther by continuing to screw the screw in but you are NOW compressing the clutch springs as you are doing so. Once you can feel some of the resistance, then you are again to turn the screw back outwards CCW the 1/4 turn, LOCK into place, and then try out the feel of the lever.

The extra turn is to ensure that there is NO pressure against the throwout bearing so that the clutch plates will FULLY ENGAGE and you won't have any slippage. But if the screw is too far away, then when you pull the clutch lever, you can run out of travel before the throwout bearing is depressed enough to separate the clutches to allow for the slippage/release of friction of the clutch.

Having the screw turned in to far compressing the throwout bearing had reduced your total amount of travel that lever could do, and when you pulled hard on the handlebar lever, it wouldn't move any more, and that's why the end slid out of the lever arm!! Normally that little wire will keep the end in the piece on the end of the arm.

T.C.

[dbbrian]

OK,makes sense, followed that, tried several times and the wheel is still engaged solid when trying to turn by hand with lever pulled

Tred without the 1/4 back off, same deal

[dbbrian]

OK, separate clutch thread dealt with that drama....think I'm mobile again, will find out tomorrow for sure on way to safety inspection.

Through trying to figure this out, I ran the battery down, so picked up charger. I'm having fun shopping for tools and all, but I'm spending spending and not even trying. But some things just have to be done, right?

To charge the battery, I wanted to get clear access so I managed to lift the seat after some frustration with the trunk bars and backrest getting in the way. However, putting the seat back on was a different story, so off came the trunk.

Its a bit dusty under there...
[IMG][/IMG]

Sans trunk....I like it.........I like it a lot
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