78E New proud owner

[dbbrian]

I went, looked and bought, its now in my garage. What a beauty! The guy trailered it to my place 45km away. 29,000 miles. Runs well, but a little rough sounding, hasn't been insured for the road for a year. 70 year old guy who works same place as me, retiring, and wanting space in his garage and a good home for it. $1000. I'm happy.


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Now, to deal with the soon to be x-wife, lol

[MarkD]

Congratulations dbbri. What a beauty! Looks like it's in excellent condition, and I'm sure a little carb cleaning is in order. Way to go!

[DiverRay]

DANG!! Yeah, I'd trade a wife for a bike in that condition! Carbs are easy, but warm the rubber on the intake and air box side to help get them out. It looks like it should be worth about $2500!

[Prisoner6]

Wowzers, Brian!!

You did very well ... and for only $1,000.00

Beautiful bike ... nice score!

[dbmb0416]

Looks great. Very clean. I'm not a fairing guy but great find.

[Mathh]

what a beauty!

[TopCatGr58]

I went, looked and bought, its now in my garage. What a beauty! The guy trailered it to my place 45km away. 29,000 miles. Runs well, but a little rough sounding, hasn't been insured for the road for a year. 70 year old guy who works same place as me, retiring, and wanting space in his garage and a good home for it. $1000. I'm happy.

snipped

Now, to deal with the soon to be x-wife, lol

Get it tuned up and take her for a ride on it, then you won't have to worry about her. You know what they say, that a motorcycle is the 2nd most exciting thing to put between your legs!

T.C.

[dbbrian]

Thanks for the nice comments guys.

I'm wondering about trying a couple of things for the carbs before removing them. Having just redone my 350F carbs, I know what a task it is not only getting them off, but the rebuild - SOOOOO many parts.
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Not that I would have to go as deep into with the XS.

Regarding the price - don't forget that was monopoly (CDN) money too!

As I mentioned in my pre-puchase thread - I'm not big on the look of big fairing either dbmb, but willing to give it a try before pulling it off.

As far as the wife - sounds like a good idea to offer a ride, under 'normal' circumstances, but the soon-to-be comments was more truth than joke, unfortunately. I don't think there's any coming back from the long rocky road we've been on. But if a ride fixes everything - bonus!

[TopCatGr58]

Thanks for the nice comments guys.

I'm wondering about trying a couple of things for the carbs before removing them. Having just redone my 350F carbs, I know what a task it is not only getting them off, but the rebuild - SOOOOO many parts.

As far as the wife - sounds like a good idea to offer a ride, under 'normal' circumstances, but the soon-to-be comments was more truth than joke, unfortunately. I don't think there's any coming back from the long rocky road we've been on. But if a ride fixes everything - bonus!

Hey again,

As to the carbs, get some SEAFOAM, put about a 1/2 can in the full tank, start it up and run it for a few minutes to drain the bowls and get filled with the new Seafoam loaded fuel, then turn it off, and let it sit overnight, repeat or RIDE as desired. When fill up, put the other half of the can in the tank and keep riding. If it's just some mild varnishing of the jets and passages, the seafoam "MAY" help to open them up.

Also, check the AIR FILTER, it may be clogged/dirty, rats and other critters have been known to get into the snorkel and make a nest in there obstructing airflow.

As to the wife, sorry, but thought it was a joke about "IF you get that bike, I'm leaving you" kind of statement that some folks have heard when they do that!? Good luck!

T.C.

[dbbrian]

Thanks T.C., but no need to say sorry, your comment was totally appropriate. It WAS a joke. The best jokes are usually based on some truth / reality, and a good way to deal with life IMHO.

I'll try that Seafoam trick. Thanks.

Now, to find an Owner manual, and service manual. They must be on this website somewhere....a hunting I will go.

[IanDMacDonald]

Thanks for the nice comments guys.

I'm wondering about trying a couple of things for the carbs before removing them. Having just redone my 350F carbs, I know what a task it is not only getting them off, but the rebuild - SOOOOO many parts.
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Not that I would have to go as deep into with the XS.

Regarding the price - don't forget that was monopoly (CDN) money too!

As I mentioned in my pre-puchase thread - I'm not big on the look of big fairing either dbmb, but willing to give it a try before pulling it off.

As far as the wife - sounds like a good idea to offer a ride, under 'normal' circumstances, but the soon-to-be comments was more truth than joke, unfortunately. I don't think there's any coming back from the long rocky road we've been on. But if a ride fixes everything - bonus!

Howdy-

The XS carbs are Mikuni, and just plain simple compared to the Keihin Honda carbs (I have somewhere close to 10 Honda CB's of various displacements [2 CB350's]).

[dbbrian]

Checked out a few things on the bike this afternoon.

The oil level window is completely full of oil. Can't see a line, so I think its too full. On centre stand.

The air filter is almost black on inside. Time for a new one I'd say.

There is a bit of an oil leak at the cam chain adjuster do-hickey.

Fuses area looks in nice shape. Small customization done to make a kill switch, or security).

Tilted the bike back on the rear wheel to see about the steering head. The handle bars pretty much stayed in position unless off of centre then they rolled.
I couldn't detect play on the forks but I was lifting the front end while trying it.

PO said he had someone else do all the maintenance, but was cash deal, so no records. Also said had it pre-safetied and all it needed was front tire. Its a Chen-sheng, looks not bad to me. Back tire is a Bridgestone. Also said brakes had been done, spent $800 on them. I asked about the shaft drive, if it had been taken off for lubrication, he said not. Just talked about how it needs greasing from the nipple. He didn't seem to know as much as I would have thought, seeing as he works on his own cars. When I asked if he could remove the left side cover he wasn't able to. Today I figured out it needs the key. Battery looks like new, and connections not bad but I'll clean them anyway. And then I found the tools he didn't think he had.

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Inside the tank is not pristine, some small spots and some discolouration can been seen at different levels. I'll look at the petcock folters to see whats in them. So there are two on this bike....another thing he couldn't explain to me when I mentioned it. hmmmm. His story is he bought from the original owner who kept it in his kitchen. The condition would support that. Records show he bought in 2009. Last insured to July 2014. So its been sitting almost 2 years.

All the lights and blinkers etc seem to work well. I noticed when putting into gear from neutral is a bit harsh, but don't know what is normal for this bike.

Anyway, I think this thing just needs a good servicing (3200 mile) and should be good to go.

[2manybikes]

78 e

With no intended disrespect to TC, or anyone else who uses Seafoam, I would like to add my 2 cents worth. I will also preface this with saying I am not a professional mechanic or a chemist. Just someone who takes a great deal of time researching the products I use in my vehicles. The following quote is from the Seafoam website:

" Use in gasoline and diesel fuel, oil crankcases, gas and diesel fuel filters, gasoline induction systems, automatic transmissions, hydraulics and power steering systems."

Lets start with how many of the above listed uses apply to us? Looks like just the gasoline part. (if you have a particularly nasty, and gunk filled gear box, maybe.)" To be fair, their is some internal cleaning benefits to carbs and combustion chamber components by using Seafoam.

Unless the MSDS for Seafoam has changed drastically since I looked it up a few years ago, Seafoam is comprised primarily of petroleum based solvents. IPA (isopropyl alcohol), PALE OIL (hydrotreated paraffnic oil) and NAPTHA (hexene).

Techron, was developed as a fuel additive/detergent specifically designed to help clean carburetors, fuel injectors, intake ports, valves and combustion chambers. After reading about both products, I felt my needs would be better served by using Techron. I use it as part of my general maintenance schedule. I also only use pure gas in my vintage bikes. I will use E85 if I'm somewhere pure gas is not available. I use 5-6 oz to an almost empty tank every 1000 miles in all of them.

Good luck with your new scoot. I would have pounced on that in a heartbeat!

[Radioguylogs]

Amazing purchase!

Maybe you might want to squirrel away that fairing - so you have it later if your tastes evolve. It matches the bike and the entire combo is worthy of keeping together.

But, do what you wish because it's your bike now!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey DB,

The guy that hosts the manuals on his private server/account, well the site it down right now, not sure if it's due to all of the bad weather in the midwest which is where he is??

As to the OIL level, and the fact that the bike has sat for 2 years, you need to watch out for the carbs leaking/flooding due to the METAL float needle valves/seats. The petcocks on the standard are vacuum controlled, but they can still develop leaks. If they both leak the fuel can flood the carbs and flow forward into the intake/engine and past the rings into the OIL! This thinned oil can then cause you to spin bearings and destroy the engine. When the gas gets into the oil, it can raise the "oil level" way above the full line. Check the oil for presence of gas in it, and if so, you'll need to drain/change it and the filter, but fix the carbs/petcocks first. Also the oil level window can just get gunked up from old oil/crud. If you have someone to help, you can watch the window as you slowly put it over on the side stand and see if you can see the level drop in the window. If Not, then you can also try putting a piece of rag on a piece of wire/metal that can reach thru the oil filler hole down to the window and try wiping it clear enough to see thru it.
If there doesn't seem to be gas in the oil, you should probably still drain it due to it's age. Prior to doing that, put a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil, slowly run it on the centerstand for a few minutes, use a box fan across the engine to help keep it cool, go thru the gears working the clutch as well to help the MMO get in between the plates for better cleaning action. YES the shift to 1st from neutral is a prominent CLUNK, there are techniques to minimize this affect, from holding the clutch lever in for 10-15 seconds to allow the gears to slow down their spinning before slamming them together.
The other is after bike is warmed up, shut it off, shift into 1st, and then restart it while holding the clutch in.

Cheng Shen tires are actually okay, a search will reveal the models that folks have found work well. Due to the changes in tire compounds we don't get the mileage out of the expensive brands like we used to, and so for the price, they are 1/2 to 1/3 that of the pricey brands and almost the same durability! YMMV

The cam chain tensioner leaks both from the large rubber end caps but can also leak from the O-ring around the locking bolt/nut combo. NOWADAYS, we highly recommend installing an Automatic Cam Chain Tensioner (ACCT) or Mod the OEM unit depending on both your mechanical ability and what you think once you read thru this thread.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...nute+cam+chain

If the fuses are still the GLASS type, you'll want to perform the mod of putting in an ATCO solid style fuse holder/fuses:
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showpost.p...5&postcount=10

T.C.

BTW, 2manybikes, no problem, yes, TECHROLINE is good stuff but also $$. SeaFoam has and does work for me, use it quite often in my gas tank since I don't get to ride it too often, helps prevent gumming/varnish. For cleaning the Engine, that's where I recommend using MMO instead. YMMV.