Waterproofing Connectors - Biker Friends....

[IanDMacDonald]

It's just an insulating property, and a redundancy feature. It's possible for the elements to cause damage to the housing, and the dialectric grease provides one more "shell" of protection against oxidation and corrosion. Heat being a by-product of electricity, the grease also helps keep the (usually) tin ferrules cooler than without.

[zzay]

I am no longer a fan of dialectic grease.

Phil's bike was already done in by that grease. Electrical connectors are no place for it, in my not so humble opinion.

care to elaborate on this? I haven't found that thread yet

[kboehringer]

Every Year Slightly Different.....

Does anyone have a count on the number of connectors used in the harness and the pin counts in each connector?

GMAC,
I suspect that will differ at least slightly for every model year. I know for a fact that there are several differences in the connectors on my '81 vs. my '80 Specials. Examples: Coil 2-wire Plugs '81 has '80 does not have, Speedo reeds for turn cancel older were 4-wire newer are 3-wire, ignition switches older 3-wire newer 4-wire, '81 has clutch safety switch and plugs older bikes do not, left controls have some variation in the plug types to the harness depending on year, etc.

KURT

[CatatonicBug]

I've had similar issues. The first time, I had a crack in one of the OEM coils. I was in TX, for a meet-up/rally, and riding in the rain cut my power in half. After I swapped the coils out, the problem went away. However, this last fall, I changed the coil wires. My new wires were a bit smaller than the old ones, and I didn't have boots that would fit the existing coils AND the new wires. The resulting gap between the wire and the boot at the coil lead to the same problem. I fixed it by using some gasket stuff ("The Right Stuff", in a can) and sealed the gap. A couple of rides in the rain over the last few weeks has proven the problem resolved once again.

As for Dielectric Grease, USE IT, but don't abuse it. It is designed to cover the metal terminals to prevent corrosion in the connectors. It works, and only causes issues if you cake it on, in moving areas (like the turn signal switch housing). A little works just fine there, and helps keep everything moving. Also use it on all your lightbulb connections (including bulbs in fixtures in your house). You will notice the difference when you try to remove the old bulb, especially with the new bulbs that last for years.

[Gmac]

Thanks Kurt

I'm just looking for a fairly close count so I can buy connectors to make everything waterproof. Its not that I care to ride in the rain but I know if I do go on a long distance drive I'll eventually hit the frog strangler that will drown the bike.

I suppose I'll just go through the wiring diagram and pop a close count, I figured that people who had already done complete tear downs would possible already know the connector count and number of connections in each type.

It gives me a great reason to go out in the shop and start a count myself as the sidecovers and tanks are off both bikes and I should be able to reasonably get to every one of them.

[MaximPhil]

care to elaborate on this? I haven't found that thread yet

Hi zzay,
Not much to add really. Had way too much dialectric grease on all the connectors. It attracts dirt like crazy. When jetmechmartry helped to get the bike running in the motel parking lot at XSEast New York he was not impressed with the mess he had to work with. I am cleaning it off all the connections or will be when I get back to working on the XS
There appears to be two camps on the merits or otherwise of using it.
I continue to struggle with electrical issues on my XS.
Phil

[zzay]

Hi zzay,
Not much to add really. Had way too much dialectric grease on all the connectors. It attracts dirt like crazy. When jetmechmartry helped to get the bike running in the motel parking lot at XSEast New York he was not impressed with the mess he had to work with. I am cleaning it off all the connections or will be when I get back to working on the XS
There appears to be two camps on the merits or otherwise of using it.
I continue to struggle with electrical issues on my XS.
Phil

Ah, I see... Thanks for sharing. I'm going to steer clear of the stuff.

[Bergman16]

Am I understanding that if one had a molex pin tool you don't have to clip the wires but can remove the existing pins and re-use in the weatherproof connectors, male and female both?

GMAC,
I suspect that will differ at least slightly for every model year. I know for a fact that there are several differences in the connectors on my '81 vs. my '80 Specials. Examples: Coil 2-wire Plugs '81 has '80 does not have, Speedo reeds for turn cancel older were 4-wire newer are 3-wire, ignition switches older 3-wire newer 4-wire, '81 has clutch safety switch and plugs older bikes do not, left controls have some variation in the plug types to the harness depending on year, etc.

KURT

[IanDMacDonald]

If the pins are the same, but molex pins are male/female, then differ by wire gauge. My guess would be they're not the same pins.

[Gmac]

Connector Assembly

You cannot use 'old' pin and sockets because there is a plug that is integral to the crimp on the new pins and sockets that seals each one in it's connector.

After further consideration I went ahead and purchased a wiring harness and will use it to redo the harness connections. I see no way of making a mistake if I do a straight up replacement but still wonder what I'm going to see when I open the headlight shell due to it's always acting as a ram scoop in rain storms.

[CatatonicBug]

Am I understanding that if one had a molex pin tool you don't have to clip the wires but can remove the existing pins and re-use in the weatherproof connectors, male and female both?

The only reason you would want to use a molex tool is if you wanted to re-use the existing connector, but replace the pins, or keep the pins on the wire to put them in a replacement connector. I've done that a few times with melted connectors. Not sure if the pins for the weatherproof connectors are the same as the "standard" pins though.

[DeanR]

Ah, I see... Thanks for sharing. I'm going to steer clear of the stuff.

I've moved far away from dielectric grease IN any connectors as well. Based on the experience of few learned friends here!

[motoman]

You all, FWIW, there are high(100v+) and low voltage(12v and less) dielectic greases. Low voltage dielectic grease sealers are used in electronic ignition pick-ups ect. Found this out at a local wholesale electrical supplier who carried both types. The high voltage(400v+) dielectic version is used on sealed underground splices. So, with that, I definitely learned, explained to me by supplier both products functions depending on applications and voltage output. The tubes of dielectic we generally by from NAPA suppliers etc. are kinda 'generic' in function, and have on occasion created incomplete connections voltage wise for me.....JAT.

[Bergman16]

The only reason you would want to use a molex tool is if you wanted to re-use the existing connector, but replace the pins, or keep the pins on the wire to put them in a replacement connector. I've done that a few times with melted connectors. Not sure if the pins for the weatherproof connectors are the same as the "standard" pins though.

Yeah the idea is to pull the wires and pins from the standard molex and see if they can insert into a waterproof connector--Molex makes one. It's just a theory. I currently have all my headlight connectors protected by a plastic bag and tape after I put on my windjammer. I just assume that's going to go nutty the first time I get rained on. I was hoping there would be room for the bucket to stay on but no go. I might try to move the fairing forward...

Anyway, that's a whole other thread I think. I have a waterproof molex connector somewhere, I'm going to see if the pins interchange. I have a molex crimper but would rather not trim wire if I were to do this.

[jetmechmarty]

What's the real issue?

Are these bikes really that big of a problem in the rain? I've never had issue.

These bikes are now almost 40 years old. Mother Yamaha may not have intended them to be on the road that long. Anyway, I believe the bigger issue is corrosion.

She is made of copper. When copper looks like this it conduct electricity as well as when it's clean. I have not noted that the XS1100 was put together with plated wire. It's bare copper. With bikes this age all of the connections need periodic cleaning with a quality solvent designed for the purpose. My own bike is overdue. The pins in the connectors aren't a big corrosion problem, but I'm sure they still oxidize. Clean them up.

I haven't used it, but a lot of folks seem to rave about this stuff.