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Yes. Keep the steel off the aluminum. Have you ever removed a steel bolt from aluminum that has been in place for a long time? The bolt pops loose and comes out rust free and covered in white powder. The aluminum has turned to salts as the aluminum gives up electrons to the steel. That's galvanic corrosion. Without looking at the chart, I believe stainless is an even worse case. If you want shiny aluminum, keep the steel brushes/wool away from it. The green kitchen scrubbies are fine.
thanks for the info. I was about to chuck some stainless wire wheels in my drill and go to town on it. guess I'll have to regroup. I don't anticipate a finished product anywhere near the level of cleanliness as the photos mack posted, as I will be cleaning the motor in the frame with the covers on... I mainly just want to get the oxidation and fire extinguisher residue off
Mack, If I ever had an engine that looked that good, I would put it on display in my shop, and just admire it! That is a work of art. If you could cover even the highlights of how you did it, I would really appreciate it. I have an infinite amount of patience when it comes to my bikes. I will have to say, your example really raised the bar!
Did you use a clear coat of some type? Does anyone know what was used on them originally? Is there possibly a "better" product than what was used 37 years ago? I had hoped to be finished with mine by this fall, and start something else, but my next project is looking like it may be delayed!
Yeah, you are right dear I also try this product and it is very easy to use. I purchase this spray at a reasonable price through Advance Auto Parts Promotional Codes.
so only elbow grease and green scuff pads...... I see. If i were planning to paint the engine satin black, I understand i would need to create a rough surface, would 100grit do the job? or should i only stick to the green scruff pads? Thanks!
There is a clear coat of high temp paint on parts of the engine. By now, most of it is gone, but there may still be some left on the engine. Wet sand with 250 grit would give you a good surface, and a nice looking finish.
Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
Also, I purchased a product called SharkHide protectant that I've yet to use on my polished parts for my bikes, but it worked great on the rear face of my Cadillac wheels after cleaning the corrosion and brake residue off, as a test area.
1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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