saddlebags

[BA80]

http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[timktm]

Thanks Greg for the link to the adhesive.
I started on the lids today. Started with filling the low areas and began to sand them down. All good except as I went more and more little areas would pop up. It was driving me nuts. So I ended up just sanding more to the point where I had it down to the fiberglass on the one lid. The other, not so much. It has a layer of candy that is pretty hard to remove. Anyway I got them pretty smooth and now am applying filler to the low area and go from there. Thoughts, any suggestions on the bottoms?
Tim

[timktm]

I thought I was down to fiberglass, it is filler, which I ran into some air bubbles.
Tim

[kboehringer]

I thought I was down to fiberglass, it is filler, which I ran into some air bubbles.
Tim

Tim,
Typically, fiberglass has a covering layer on top called GEL COAT. You really don't want to go down that far. ABSOLUTELY not to the fiberglass. The Gel Coat SEALS the fiberglass.

I think you might have gone a little nuts with the sanding. I've been there and done that too. It's hard to know on the first job or two what exactly the filler will do. Try to get a nice THIN layer across as much of the top as you can. Actually, a 4" wide spreader should get that done with two swipes.

Sand with your sanding block in nice LONG strokes front to back......Cross it up a LITTLE once in a while to keep from cutting in grooves.

If that is the GOOD Stuff filler as it appears to be? It will sand very nicely, much easier than traditional BONDO. 120 grit is about as rough as you should use working toward a 200-240..... Then you're ready for PRIMER....

KURT

[kboehringer]

Hand block sanding only....

Tim,

One more thing..... I have used a random orbit sander to "knock down" some heavy fillers on highly damaged tanks and severely bubbling paint on my bags.

I would NOT be using a power sanding tool on the bags as we approach finishing work. It's far too easy to DIG into them so fast you've done real damage before you know it. The bags are not that big an hand sanding is not gonna be a major investment of time.

That subtle raised line across the top of that style bag is a GONER if an R/A is used.

KURT

My rings showed up from Japan so it's time to get my JUGS on.... See ya later.

[timktm]

I'm pretty happy with the results. Feels and looks good. I think it is ready for primer. I just don't know how I want to start on the lowers.
Tim

[skids]

I have found that the paint is harder than the plastic. It makes it tough...

[timktm]

Kurt,
I know you have been busy with your own project but if you find time to give a primer update I think I'm ready, although the weather sure isn't.
Tim

[kboehringer]

give a primer update

Tim,
I'll get a post together for you tonight.... The area you have selected for painting is it going to be 70degrees or more?

KURT

[timktm]

Tim,
I'll get a post together for you tonight.... The area you have selected for painting is it going to be 70degrees or more?

KURT

Yes, or set up something in the garage.
Tim

[kboehringer]

set up something in the garage.

Tim,
Let me STRONGLY discourage you from using the Garage. ESPECIALLY, if it is attached or part of the home. Spraying paint inside is ALWAYS a mess. Your house will smell like paint for DAYS and the stuff will get into every nook & cranny.

It's close to spring, even for you in OHIO, so painting outside is a good option if you have a couple nice days in the forecast? Really, you need 70 for a couple hours. Your parts that are to be painted/primed need to be at that temp before painting and for a couple hours after so the carrier (reducer) can evaporate off. It's not quite as important for primer as finish gloss is not a factor and if you get a drip or run it won't matter either as you will be able to wet sand it off.

I've got to assign a couple XS11 projects to my son so he can stay busy on DEAD DUCK and I will get a good post up in a little while. Again, please look for another location not inside the house if possible.

KURT

[timktm]

My garage is detached. I have heat as well. This was used to paint my harley by a friend. Yes it was a mess and if I were to use it again, I would make changes. This is a last resort if the weather doesn't get nice.
Tim

[kboehringer]

Writing a BOOK

Tim,
Sorry for the delay…. Here goes with some PRIMER information.

PREPARATIONS:
Get all the parts situated so you don’t have to move them or move them much. Place them on clean paint sticks or similar. DO NOT put them on NEWSPAPER or similar. They’ll be stuck to it making a royal mess.

Make sure the compressor has been DRAINED of any moisture. Even though it’s on the bottom of the compressor it WILL get into your air and ruin your day.

GUN:
The HF guns are pretty darn good for a mere $20 but they have one problem. The paint cup threads don’t match the gun well. Use several wraps of Teflon tape on the gun to get the good seal. The first time I used one I did not and the paint was all over my hands. The better guns have an O-ring and don’t have this issue.

Plug it in and play with just the air. When you adjust the SIDE KNOB it will WIDEN the pattern or close the pattern. I prefer a pattern about 8” wide from about 12” away. The BOTTOM SCREW regulates the air flow into the gun. You need to atomize the paint with the bottom knob but not spray it halfway across the garage in a cloud. The REAR SCREW regulates the amount of liquid being passed. This will be MUCH further out with Primer than the Paint. You can always increase the pressure and flow as you work a bit but after you’ve tossed a bunch of dripping paint on a part it’s too late. Start with the rear knob about 1 full turn out.

Also, the air regulator knob on the HF gun is a little touchy. If seems to have a mind of its own at times. If you stop for a couple minutes RECHECK with a quick shot on some scrap to be sure it hasn't changed on you.


MIX 4:1:1 (NOT Critical for PRIMER)
Ok, so the Primer Surface can says it should be mixed 4:1:1 (Primer, Reducer, Hardener). This mix will be very THICK and can be TOO thick. If you still have any deep scratches stick with this for the first coating. IF another coating is necessary you can go as low as 2:1:1 safely and successfully.

When mixing primer or paint make sure to thoroughly mix the primary component AND use DIFFERENT mix sticks for the paint you are mixing in your mixing cup and the virgin can. In other words, don’t put that stick back in the virgin can after you’ve mixed your 3-parts together…. The virgin Paint/primer still in the can will be ruined.

You’ve got just the saddle bags to do but that’s a LOT of surface area. I’d mix about 6oz. to start. You can always mix more! That SHOULD give you a good FIRST Coating. The bags will need TWO minimum.

PRIMERING:
Blast away! Slow even strokes about 12” away from the part is pretty good. There should be some overlap... maybe 3"(+/-) If you get a drip or run you’ve got to close off the REAR knob or MOVE AWAY. It’s primer so it’s not a big deal. This is the place to learn how to use the gun. Primer dries REALLY fast on the parts and IN THE GUN. Get a good coat and check what’s left in the gun. It shouldn’t be much if any….If there is a significant amount left wait a few minutes (10+/-) and BLAST AWAY AGAIN. Do not wait too long as this stuff will harden fast IN THE GUN.

I always take a CLEAN rag with a little reducer on it to wipe the tip of the gun between coats. This keeps the tip from hardening up and there will be a bunch of goo on it from the primer especially. If you wipe the tip the gun can sit safely for 10-15 minutes but not much more with primer.

DONE?
UNPLUG the air, and get some REDUCER (2oz) in that gun now! Swirl it around in the gun’s paint cup and get that crap thinned out. You can hold your finger on the top of the gun’s vent and shake the crap out of it to clean the inside of the cap. THEN pull the gun trigger allowing the thinned mixture to flush the inside of the gun. No that’s not all there is to cleaning, BUT you can let the gun sit for a ½ hour until you can get to cleaning it.

CLEANING THE GUN:
You need to completely remove the gun tip parts, the needle and spring (rear knob), and the paint cup. I like to use Q-Tips and tooth brushes.

You can use your mixing cup and soak all the parts in several ounces of reducer. Don’t use regular paint thinners it will leave oily residue that will screw up your next job! You should have a full quart so you have plenty since you’re only ever using 1-part reducer with your mixes. FYI…I also have an old can I keep the used leftovers from cleaning in. I filter it through a coffee filter and although it looks a little dirty it’s good enough for that first cleaning of the gun…. Just an idea….

Get everything spotless clean so you can see all the tiny little air ports in the nozzle and aerator are clean. Just like a XS11 carb jet resist the urge to use metal things to clean the ports. Air and reducer will do the job well but it takes time to get it all clean.

Inside the gun's cup is a plastic vibrator/screen. They can be a pain in the butt to clean. HomeDepot has a pack of 5 for about $5. Toss it in the trash and put in a new one. These are particularly hard to clean of primer.

Hope this helps you get started.

KURT

[kboehringer]

Wet sanding....

Tim,

Typically, you should be able to start wet-sanding these parts in a couple hours. IF you can wait overnight that would be better...........

KURT

[timktm]

Thanks Kurt. I will get it going. Most likely next week. I bought some strainers for the paint, is that nessesary? I have to prepare the shop for painting as well.
Tim