Originally posted by kboehringer
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Wrap
Convoluted tubing is another good wiring wrap/protector. Comes in many colors and sizes.1981 XS1100H Venturer
K&N Air Filter
ACCT
Custom Paint by Deitz
Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
Stebel Nautilus Horn
EBC Front Rotors
Limie Accent Moves On In 2015
Mike
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Originally posted by kboehringer View PostMarty,
Thanks for the tip! My electricians at work use something they refer to as "Rubber Tape" when they wire up the leads our big 3-phase motors. This stuff looks a little similar....
KURT1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View PostOoooh no, don't want to use that! Splicing tape is just meant to seal stuff, and you normally apply it sticky side up, then regular electrical tape over that. And in my opinion, I don't really feel the wires need to be re-sealed, as much as they need to be protected from breaks, etc. So, I recommend using a corrugated spiral wrap, or just harness wrap u can find @ Auto Zone.
This reminds me, my own bike is suffering from unwanted voltage drops. I need to get after it. I suspect it's due to corrosion.Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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I agree with Marty. We used that F4 tape on all wire bundles in the military. Expensive, but really good stuff. It's not sticky, but when the plastic is removed and you wrap it on itself, it self-vulcanizes and it won't come apart like electrical tape eventually does. I've used the corrugated tubing before, and I'm sure there's something out there better than I've used, but after a year or two of heat and road trips, it becomes very brittle and crumbles apart.Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
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Rigging Tape
Sailors use an equivalent product:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-m...02_068_002_510-Mike
_________
'79 XS1100SF 20k miles
'80 XS1100SG 44k miles
'81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
'79 XS750SF 17k miles
'85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
'86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles
Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65
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Originally posted by kboehringer View PostJRealHEMC,
Sorry for the delay. Been having some troubles getting my other XS11 running right and this is the first chance I had to get you some pics.....
While taking these for you I realized I mis-spoke in one of these threads of yours. There are a couple things that would NOT fit in my set-up. The "outlet" for aux power is not provided. That's the little gizmo with a glass fuse in it you could hook some accessory to. Also, the tool box had to be removed to provide a space for the ignition box.
There's a lot of minor changes that occurred here, too many to list. Let me know where you have questions about what I did.
You could find an ENTIRELY different way of getting this done and probably/possibly even better! I made a bunch of these moves as I didn't have any plastic side covers for this bike. You may decide to keep yours if you have them.
I've got a little "Tiding Up" to do here like re-wrapping all the wires and etc. but everything DOES work and nothing will be moved on mine from where it is now.
Hope this helps.
KURT>>Insert clever statement here<<
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My crack at it...
Ok, so here's what I've done... I cut out part of the plastic inner fender, then moved the outer fender in, and bolting it to the mounting holes formerly used for turn signals (I'm installing a taillight with integrated signals later). I moved the electronics behind the battery, and cut off all that extra "bracketry" that the fender used to be attached to.
Next I will be mounting a Sportster solo seat by drilling a hole in the newly positioned fender for the mounting screw, and cutting off the old mounting tabs on the frame.>>Insert clever statement here<<
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Looks Good..... Tail Lamp
JR,
That looks good!
Just an idea..... I used one of those cheapo evil-bay Chinese LED Tail Lamps. It was only something like $3. Works good and shipping time was NOT that horrible at about 2 weeks. I bought turn signals also for about $2. I don't know about your state but it is law in GA that if your bike came with turn signals it MUST have them, even if you use hand signals the bike must have working turn signals. I would seem possible your state would have a similar law??? The ticket is certainly more than the time and cost of signals!
NOTE: All of the Chinese stuff I bought use 3.5mm bullet connectors. The standard on our bikes and at the auto parts stores is 4mm. NO ONE has them that I could find. I had to buy a bag of 100 w/platic covers from china for another $2. If your going to buy any of the Chinese stuff buy a bag of the 3.5mm female connectors for them.Kurt Boehringer
Peachtree City, Georgia
1970 - CT70K0 - Mini-Trail
1978 - SR500 - Thumper
1979 - CT70H - Mini-Trail
1979 - XS1100SF - Pensacola
1980 - XS850SG - Rocky
1980 - XS1100SG - The Ugly Duck
1980 - XS1100SG - Mayberry Duck
1981 - XS1100SH - DEAD Duck Cafe'
1981 - XJ550 Maxim - Nancy's Mini-Max
1982 - XJ650 SECA - Hurricane
1986 - FJ1200 - Georgia Big Red
1992 - FZR1000 - Genesis
2016 - FJR1300A - Montgomery
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I live on eBay...
Originally posted by kboehringer View PostJR,
That looks good!
Just an idea..... I used one of those cheapo evil-bay Chinese LED Tail Lamps. It was only something like $3. Works good and shipping time was NOT that horrible at about 2 weeks. I bought turn signals also for about $2. I don't know about your state but it is law in GA that if your bike came with turn signals it MUST have them, even if you use hand signals the bike must have working turn signals. I would seem possible your state would have a similar law??? The ticket is certainly more than the time and cost of signals!
NOTE: All of the Chinese stuff I bought use 3.5mm bullet connectors. The standard on our bikes and at the auto parts stores is 4mm. NO ONE has them that I could find. I had to buy a bag of 100 w/platic covers from china for another $2. If your going to buy any of the Chinese stuff buy a bag of the 3.5mm female connectors for them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161923991931...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
It has the turn signals integrated in the taillight.
I also plan on replacing my headlight with this...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221898418277...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
...since I don't have one anymore after removing my front fairing. (Gotta figure out how to wire that)>>Insert clever statement here<<
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Gee mate, a 35 watt halogen headlight?? Are you only planning on using it as a daytime running light?? The stock halogen bulbs are 60/55 watts, so that's quite a step backwards.79 SF Special W/ Stock all original motor @ 384,000klms
Stock exhaust, stock airbox, XJ sump, 78E carbs, Xs1100RH seat, Bosch superhorns, 5/8ths front M/c, braided lines, sintered SBS pads, drilled discs, progressive springs, 8" 50w HID headlight 4300K, 2 x 50w HID spiral driving lights, KONI shocks, Spade fuse box
*Touring mode - Plexistar 2 screen, Gearsack rack & bag & saddlebags, homebuilt towbar
*"The Keg"- UC torana hubs, XS11 discs, Tokico 4 spot calipers
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Originally posted by Eveready1100 View PostGee mate, a 35 watt halogen headlight?? Are you only planning on using it as a daytime running light?? The stock halogen bulbs are 60/55 watts, so that's quite a step backwards.>>Insert clever statement here<<
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