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  • #16
    Originally posted by kboehringer View Post
    This stuff looks a little similar....
    KURT
    It could be. It's just best to avoid the stuff with the glue.
    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

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    • #17
      Wrap

      Convoluted tubing is another good wiring wrap/protector. Comes in many colors and sizes.
      1981 XS1100H Venturer
      K&N Air Filter
      ACCT
      Custom Paint by Deitz
      Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
      Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
      Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
      Stebel Nautilus Horn
      EBC Front Rotors
      Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

      Mike

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      • #18
        Originally posted by kboehringer View Post
        Marty,
        Thanks for the tip! My electricians at work use something they refer to as "Rubber Tape" when they wire up the leads our big 3-phase motors. This stuff looks a little similar....
        KURT
        Ooooh no, don't want to use that! Splicing tape is just meant to seal stuff, and you normally apply it sticky side up, then regular electrical tape over that. And in my opinion, I don't really feel the wires need to be re-sealed, as much as they need to be protected from breaks, etc. So, I recommend using a corrugated spiral wrap, or just harness wrap u can find @ Auto Zone.
        1979 XS1100F
        2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
          Ooooh no, don't want to use that! Splicing tape is just meant to seal stuff, and you normally apply it sticky side up, then regular electrical tape over that. And in my opinion, I don't really feel the wires need to be re-sealed, as much as they need to be protected from breaks, etc. So, I recommend using a corrugated spiral wrap, or just harness wrap u can find @ Auto Zone.
          OK then, I stand by my first recommendation. The cohesive tape is far better than what the manufacturer put on it. The only down side is the expense. If you're using the original wire harness, and most of us are, the wire is poor quality as compared to what's available today. The conductor is not plated (prone to corrosion) and the insulation is prone to fall apart. It needs the best protection you can give it.

          This reminds me, my own bike is suffering from unwanted voltage drops. I need to get after it. I suspect it's due to corrosion.
          Marty (in Mississippi)
          XS1100SG
          XS650SK
          XS650SH
          XS650G
          XS6502F
          XS650E

          Comment


          • #20
            I agree with Marty. We used that F4 tape on all wire bundles in the military. Expensive, but really good stuff. It's not sticky, but when the plastic is removed and you wrap it on itself, it self-vulcanizes and it won't come apart like electrical tape eventually does. I've used the corrugated tubing before, and I'm sure there's something out there better than I've used, but after a year or two of heat and road trips, it becomes very brittle and crumbles apart.
            Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

            You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

            Current bikes:
            '06 Suzuki DR650
            *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
            '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
            '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
            '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
            '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
            '81 XS1100 Special
            '81 YZ250
            '80 XS850 Special
            '80 XR100
            *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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            • #21
              Rigging Tape

              Sailors use an equivalent product:

              http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-m...02_068_002_510
              -Mike
              _________
              '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
              '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
              '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
              '79 XS750SF 17k miles
              '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
              '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
              '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

              Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by kboehringer View Post
                JRealHEMC,
                Sorry for the delay. Been having some troubles getting my other XS11 running right and this is the first chance I had to get you some pics.....

                While taking these for you I realized I mis-spoke in one of these threads of yours. There are a couple things that would NOT fit in my set-up. The "outlet" for aux power is not provided. That's the little gizmo with a glass fuse in it you could hook some accessory to. Also, the tool box had to be removed to provide a space for the ignition box.











                There's a lot of minor changes that occurred here, too many to list. Let me know where you have questions about what I did.

                You could find an ENTIRELY different way of getting this done and probably/possibly even better! I made a bunch of these moves as I didn't have any plastic side covers for this bike. You may decide to keep yours if you have them.

                I've got a little "Tiding Up" to do here like re-wrapping all the wires and etc. but everything DOES work and nothing will be moved on mine from where it is now.

                Hope this helps.

                KURT
                Thanx a lot! I just learned a few things I'm definitely going to try to use...
                >>Insert clever statement here<<

                Comment


                • #23
                  What do those staple go into???
                  Skids (Sid Hansen)

                  Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    My crack at it...

                    Ok, so here's what I've done... I cut out part of the plastic inner fender, then moved the outer fender in, and bolting it to the mounting holes formerly used for turn signals (I'm installing a taillight with integrated signals later). I moved the electronics behind the battery, and cut off all that extra "bracketry" that the fender used to be attached to.




                    Next I will be mounting a Sportster solo seat by drilling a hole in the newly positioned fender for the mounting screw, and cutting off the old mounting tabs on the frame.
                    >>Insert clever statement here<<

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Looks Good..... Tail Lamp

                      JR,
                      That looks good!

                      Just an idea..... I used one of those cheapo evil-bay Chinese LED Tail Lamps. It was only something like $3. Works good and shipping time was NOT that horrible at about 2 weeks. I bought turn signals also for about $2. I don't know about your state but it is law in GA that if your bike came with turn signals it MUST have them, even if you use hand signals the bike must have working turn signals. I would seem possible your state would have a similar law??? The ticket is certainly more than the time and cost of signals!



                      NOTE: All of the Chinese stuff I bought use 3.5mm bullet connectors. The standard on our bikes and at the auto parts stores is 4mm. NO ONE has them that I could find. I had to buy a bag of 100 w/platic covers from china for another $2. If your going to buy any of the Chinese stuff buy a bag of the 3.5mm female connectors for them.
                      Kurt Boehringer
                      Peachtree City, Georgia

                      1970 - CT70K0 - Mini-Trail
                      1978 - SR500 - Thumper
                      1979 - CT70H - Mini-Trail
                      1979 - XS1100SF - Pensacola
                      1980 - XS850SG - Rocky
                      1980 - XS1100SG - The Ugly Duck
                      1980 - XS1100SG - Mayberry Duck
                      1981 - XS1100SH - DEAD Duck Cafe'
                      1981 - XJ550 Maxim - Nancy's Mini-Max
                      1982 - XJ650 SECA - Hurricane
                      1986 - FJ1200 - Georgia Big Red
                      1992 - FZR1000 - Genesis
                      2016 - FJR1300A - Montgomery

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I live on eBay...

                        Originally posted by kboehringer View Post
                        JR,
                        That looks good!

                        Just an idea..... I used one of those cheapo evil-bay Chinese LED Tail Lamps. It was only something like $3. Works good and shipping time was NOT that horrible at about 2 weeks. I bought turn signals also for about $2. I don't know about your state but it is law in GA that if your bike came with turn signals it MUST have them, even if you use hand signals the bike must have working turn signals. I would seem possible your state would have a similar law??? The ticket is certainly more than the time and cost of signals!



                        NOTE: All of the Chinese stuff I bought use 3.5mm bullet connectors. The standard on our bikes and at the auto parts stores is 4mm. NO ONE has them that I could find. I had to buy a bag of 100 w/platic covers from china for another $2. If your going to buy any of the Chinese stuff buy a bag of the 3.5mm female connectors for them.
                        Thanx! Yeah I found a taillight/license plate bracket/turn signals on "evil-bay" that I plan on attempting to replace the current license plate bracket with...

                        http://www.ebay.com/itm/161923991931...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                        It has the turn signals integrated in the taillight.

                        I also plan on replacing my headlight with this...

                        http://www.ebay.com/itm/221898418277...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                        ...since I don't have one anymore after removing my front fairing. (Gotta figure out how to wire that)
                        >>Insert clever statement here<<

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Gee mate, a 35 watt halogen headlight?? Are you only planning on using it as a daytime running light?? The stock halogen bulbs are 60/55 watts, so that's quite a step backwards.
                          79 SF Special W/ Stock all original motor @ 384,000klms
                          Stock exhaust, stock airbox, XJ sump, 78E carbs, Xs1100RH seat, Bosch superhorns, 5/8ths front M/c, braided lines, sintered SBS pads, drilled discs, progressive springs, 8" 50w HID headlight 4300K, 2 x 50w HID spiral driving lights, KONI shocks, Spade fuse box
                          *Touring mode - Plexistar 2 screen, Gearsack rack & bag & saddlebags, homebuilt towbar
                          *"The Keg"- UC torana hubs, XS11 discs, Tokico 4 spot calipers

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Eveready1100 View Post
                            Gee mate, a 35 watt halogen headlight?? Are you only planning on using it as a daytime running light?? The stock halogen bulbs are 60/55 watts, so that's quite a step backwards.
                            Thanx for pointing that out, I hadn't noticed, but I was planning on replacing the regular bulb with an HID one eventually... Guess I'll need to do that more sooner than later now.
                            >>Insert clever statement here<<

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