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  • Left side cool right side not

    Hey all I put my bike away to do some exhaust work and decided to try and replace my headlight. So I got this cool HD light from the Internet the kind that has turn signals built into it and I hooked up to my bike and I started it and I made a the light made a funny humming sound and then the bike wouldn't run anymore I have to really Gousset to get it to go. So I figured I didn't like that. And went back to the original headlight configuration. And then I went to start my motorcycle again and it seems to me that the left side doesn't have nearly as much compression as the right side and the left side of the motor is running cooler than the right what could that problem be?
    Ego Sum Meus Frater Custodis...

  • #2
    Originally posted by scappod View Post
    Hey all I put my bike away to do some exhaust work and decided to try and replace my headlight. So I got this cool HD light from the Internet the kind that has turn signals built into it and I hooked up to my bike and I started it and I made a the light made a funny humming sound and then the bike wouldn't run anymore I have to really Gousset to get it to go. So I figured I didn't like that. And went back to the original headlight configuration. And then I went to start my motorcycle again and it seems to me that the left side doesn't have nearly as much compression as the right side and the left side of the motor is running cooler than the right what could that problem be?
    Face bike other direction out of the sun..........that is, if the sun even comes out up there. Other than that, a bit more info with some testing included sure would be helpful. You've been a member here long enough, so no testing included is a cop-out.
    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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    • #3
      The only things I have not checked are the fuses and coils. Plugs wires fuel all good she has never run like this before. I think I will pull the coils and take them to my local shop to check. Otherwise I am really stumped.
      Ego Sum Meus Frater Custodis...

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      • #4
        Originally posted by scappod View Post
        The only things I have not checked are the fuses and coils. Plugs wires fuel all good she has never run like this before. I think I will pull the coils and take them to my local shop to check. Otherwise I am really stumped.
        Coils will affect #1 and #4 cylinders or #2 and #3 in pairs. Usually 1 & 2 or 3 & 4 pairing is a fuel issue. Since you've already eliminated fuel, I think the first thing I'd check is the sync. If you've got inline fuel filters you might check them for obstructions too. Might want to check the vacuum advance line too and make sure it's still in place on both ends.
        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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        • #5
          Originally posted by scappod View Post
          The only things I have not checked are the fuses and coils. Plugs wires fuel all good she has never run like this before. I think I will pull the coils and take them to my local shop to check. Otherwise I am really stumped.
          Make sure you are getting fuel to the #1 and #2 carbs. Maybe a left petcock issue.

          Coils run 1 & 4 and 2 & 3. One fires both outers, the other both inners. Not side to side
          Greg

          Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

          ― Albert Einstein

          80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

          The list changes.

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          • #6
            Thanks all I will check all of that have many things I want to replace inclusive the coils. New fuel line etc.also think I will dump and redo the tank. Anyone on here rebuild carbs?ill keep you keep you posted
            Ego Sum Meus Frater Custodis...

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            • #7
              Originally posted by scappod View Post
              Thanks all I will check all of that have many things I want to replace inclusive the coils. New fuel line etc.also think I will dump and redo the tank. Anyone on here rebuild carbs?ill keep you keep you posted
              You can R/R the carbs. We'll give you any help needed from here. Remember, the only dumb question is the one never asked, If ya got the stock airbox, remove totally the four long bolts on bottomside of lower portion of airbox. Remove lower portion of airbox and filter out left side, Unbolt airbox bolts on both sides, Completely unscew airbox clamp screws and slide them rearward out of your way. Remove upper airbox and drop it down PAST the carb boots so it's resting on top of engine case. Takes me longer to type all this than it does to remove carbs(bout 10-12min. job).
              81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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              • #8
                I just want to go on record as saying that I hate the stock air of. Plans include removing it. I already have the filters.
                Ego Sum Meus Frater Custodis...

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                • #9
                  Oem airbox

                  Originally posted by scappod View Post
                  I just want to go on record as saying that I hate the stock air of. Plans include removing it. I already have the filters.
                  Might want to rethink that idea. You will incur more problems by removing factory air box.
                  1981 XS1100H Venturer
                  K&N Air Filter
                  ACCT
                  Custom Paint by Deitz
                  Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                  Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                  Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                  Stebel Nautilus Horn
                  EBC Front Rotors
                  Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                  Mike

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                  • #10
                    A stupid question ?

                    Have you pulled the plugs on #3&4 cylinder ?
                    Were they wet ? have you determined if there is spark ?Sometimes I use a caveman approach by squirting some raw gas into cylinder or cylinders with syringe .. reasonably simple way to eliminate spark/ compression questions ..If runs at all can be fairly certain fuel issue ..Good luck !
                    78standard,79 & 80 Specials; 2 x 650 Maxims; 4 x RD350's; yz450; 2 x Honda tlr's;2x jt1 mini.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by scappod View Post
                      I just want to go on record as saying that I hate the stock air of. Plans include removing it. I already have the filters.
                      That's the way I run mine, and I'll never go back to the stock airbox. I can pull my carbs in about two minutes, and I don't even have to remove the pods to do it. That being said, there's a couple things you need to be aware of. First, make doggone sure you use the right kind of pods. DO NOT use the el-cheapo variety that have a lip around the inside. The lip will block the carb intakes, and the carbs won't like it.

                      The other thing is jetting - you'll need to adjust your jet sizes to accommodate the increased airflow with the pods. The jetting recommendations in tech tips will get you pretty close. And of course they'll need to be synched and adjusted properly.

                      And one other thing you'll want to do with pods. With the stock airbox the carbs are supported front and rear. A lot of folks will remove the airbox and just let the carbs dangle from the front carb hangers. They'll bounce around quite a bit that way, and it's not good for those expensive carb hangers. You can fashion a bracket for the rear of the carbs for support, and that makes for a much better installation without the bounce.
                      I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                      '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by scappod View Post
                        I just want to go on record as saying that I hate the stock air of. Plans include removing it. I already have the filters.
                        Keep and use the stock air-box. A change to pods WILL change all your stock settings, and will be a headache to sort out. Airbox and carbs should come off in less than 15min. Remove lower portion of air box and filter completely.........remove airbox holding bolts annd boot clamps...........pull airbox off of boots and drop that upper portion down on engine case..........now remove carb bank...........easy-peasy.
                        81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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                        • #13
                          Roger that
                          Ego Sum Meus Frater Custodis...

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