Clutch Slippage help

[motoman]

Now that the carb issues are all fixed on bike i realized that the bike clutch slips after 6k rpm. I have to let go of the throttle then try again. Is there an adjustment? Or are the clutch pads fried? Tge bike has about 29,000 miles.


anybody have issues like this?


my brother had a bike that did the same thing, a more modern bike, sv1000 and he just had to change the oil viscosity and the problem went away. i hope its something simple.

Refer to my post #13 adelii. That round inspection cover just falls off after reoving the screws that hold it in place. That cover also has a slot in bottom for any weeping moisture to wick its way out.

[BA80]

Thanks for reminding me I needed to get a new tube Greg.
$12.45 and free shipping off Ebay.

Yup, I have one tube in my tools at home and one in my carry along tools.

About the same price as ONE gasket and can be used repeatedly over several years on the road and off.

As essential as zip ties and duct tape.

[Gmac]

Three Bond Liquid Gasket 1194 TB1194

Thanks for reminding me I needed to get a new tube Greg.
$12.45 and free shipping off Ebay.

[dbeardslee]

I just saw another thread that immediately reminded me of this one - How do you get clutch cover off when glued on. I'll stick with gaskets. I figure if they're good enough for the folks who designed the motor, they're good enough for me.

[motoman]

Or the attitude.

Right after I entered that, I somehow knew THAT was coming in response.

[BA80]

Nice.......must work better in Tulsa than here. Could be the altitude.

Or the attitude.

[motoman]

Yamabond is Yamaha, ThreeBond is a brand itself, 1194 is a formula of ThreeBond that is semi hardening. Harder than silicone but softer than Permatex Form-A-Gasket.

Cringe away Brant, I even use ThreeBond 1194 on some automotive applications that call for silicone. Never had an issue. I swear by it.

Nice.......must work better in Tulsa than here. Could be the altitude.

[BA80]

........Sorry, have NEVER been very fond of Yammys Three Bond associated with any of their numberings code.......and have used them all decades ago.....lesson learned. Sorry.....I just cringe everytime that numbering and name pop up on here!

Yamabond is Yamaha, ThreeBond is a brand itself, 1194 is a formula of ThreeBond that is semi hardening. Harder than silicone but softer than Permatex Form-A-Gasket.

Cringe away Brant, I even use ThreeBond 1194 on some automotive applications that call for silicone. Never had an issue. I swear by it.

[motoman]

I have never had a gasket on my clutch cover, ThreeBond 1194 only. That goes for all the other engine covers except the valve cover. Doesn't leak a drop.

........goes for Permatex brand of silicone in Ultra Grey also. Using it in place of pan gasket, shifter cover gasket and clutch cover gasket have never had so much as a weep. They have all held fine with no weep goin' on for some 8yrs. now. Kinda ironic, as I do have new OEM gaskets still in a yellow folder for all the pre-mentioned locations. Sorry, have NEVER been very fond of Yammys Three Bond associated with any of their numberings code.......and have used them all decades ago.....lesson learned. Sorry.....I just cringe everytime that numbering and name pop up on here!

[BA80]

Here's my thing with XS clutches. The biggest PITA in the whole process is usually getting the old gasket off on the motor side. Sometimes you can get lucky and the old gasket can be reused. I got lucky with my brothers G this past summer that way. And then again, sometimes you can diddle-flock around with 'em for hours getting all the little pieces off and prepping the surface. And it's a lot easier to do with the basket out.

If you grease the new gasket, and it's not in too long, you can probably remove the cover again without damaging it if you find you need frictions after a spring change. But even if the gasket survives you'll still wind up having to deal with that star plate twice. That's two opportunities to break that little sucker, and it will break if you don't treat it right.

You can get a set of friction plates on Amazon for $39, including the shipping. And the additional work to install them when you've already got the basket exposed is hardly worth mentioning.

To me $40 isn't worth the potential aggravation of having to do the same job twice. Not to mention the peace of mind of knowing what's in your clutch. If $40 means more to you, then you have the option of trying to get by on the cheap. Just be aware that what appears to be the cheap way on the front end doesn't always wind up being the cheap way on the back end.

I have never had a gasket on my clutch cover, ThreeBond 1194 only. That goes for all the other engine covers except the valve cover. Doesn't leak a drop.

[dbeardslee]

Here's my thing with XS clutches. The biggest PITA in the whole process is usually getting the old gasket off on the motor side. Sometimes you can get lucky and the old gasket can be reused. I got lucky with my brothers G this past summer that way. And then again, sometimes you can diddle-flock around with 'em for hours getting all the little pieces off and prepping the surface. And it's a lot easier to do with the basket out.

If you grease the new gasket, and it's not in too long, you can probably remove the cover again without damaging it if you find you need frictions after a spring change. But even if the gasket survives you'll still wind up having to deal with that star plate twice. That's two opportunities to break that little sucker, and it will break if you don't treat it right.

You can get a set of friction plates on Amazon for $39, including the shipping. And the additional work to install them when you've already got the basket exposed is hardly worth mentioning.

To me $40 isn't worth the potential aggravation of having to do the same job twice. Not to mention the peace of mind of knowing what's in your clutch. If $40 means more to you, then you have the option of trying to get by on the cheap. Just be aware that what appears to be the cheap way on the front end doesn't always wind up being the cheap way on the back end.

[red bandit]

That sounds like a spring or oil problem. But, as long as it's fixed.

That was with Barnett springs and I tried different oils with out additives. That was a few years ago, haven't had a problem since. But like you said, it's working now.

[ViperRon]

Heat and some additives can eat up the frictions like when you have leaky petcocks and floats don't seat and you fill up on gas. That ethanol will swell up the cork and it will no longer grip. Just the residue that gets in oil from burning ethanol is not good so there is where you can have issues Greg. Mine were the right thickness I cleaned them up put new springs in and still when warm they slipped under power. Also sitting for a long time like mine did dry can be a real issue in deterioration of cork. There are papers out there on the internet that explain it all.

But I still say you need to go threw the process before just saying the frictions are bad. Right oil, Adjustment, and more than likely you will find springs will resolve the issue it just did not for me and will not for some especially if they have a full dresser do an overbore kit new rings etc and kick the compression up to 170lbs cold.

[BA80]

I've had a few frictions plates that were well with in spec and appeared good but I couldn't get them to quit slipping until I replaced them with new ones from Parts-n-more. YMMV

That sounds like a spring or oil problem. But, as long as it's fixed.

[red bandit]

I've had a few frictions plates that were well with in spec and appeared good but I couldn't get them to quit slipping until I replaced them with new ones from Parts-n-more. YMMV