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Experience with stainless engine bolt kit

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  • #16
    They are usually sold in kits that do all engine covers so you don't need to know the sizes. Do tell that that you want the polished ones if they sell both types.
    Rob
    KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

    1978 XS1100E Modified
    1978 XS500E
    1979 XS1100F Restored
    1980 XS1100 SG
    1981 Suzuki GS1100
    1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
    1983 Honda CB900 Custom

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    • #17
      Here is a link to the UK site

      Crankcase Bolts

      It is a shopping list of the bolts you need to buy for each engine cover.
      '84 Sport

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      • #18
        Thats the ticket, thank you Shappers....
        1978 1100E Standard
        2 1985 700 Maxim's (black & red)
        1986 600 Radian (basket case)
        1979? GS1000 (no title)
        1980 1100SG Special

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        • #19
          I'm with xschop. Fastenal has SS metric bolts and they are relatively cheap. I have replaced all the 6mm allen cap screws with wonderful results.
          Mike Giroir
          79 XS-1100 Special

          Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

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          • #20
            Yamaha includes the bolt size in the part number

            18 95811-06045-00 BOLT, FLANGE 11

            In this instance the the bolt is 6MM diameter by 45MM long.


            Steve
            80 XS1100G Standard - YammerHammer
            73 Yamaha DT3 - DirtyHairy
            62 Norton Atlas - AgileFragile (Dunstalled) waiting reassembly
            Norton Electra - future restore
            CZ 400 MX'er
            68 Ducati Scrambler
            RC Planes and Helis

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            • #21
              Here's a great resource from the UK site - a listing of the various bolts you may want to replace.
              Ken Talbot

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              • #22
                Just remember that SS bolts a quite a bit WEAKER than the stock fasteners. Don't use them for anything critical!
                -- Clint
                1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by clcorbin View Post
                  Just remember that SS bolts a quite a bit WEAKER than the stock fasteners. Don't use them for anything critical!
                  That is true, but also keep in mind that many of the fasteners used on these bikes are overkill for the application. Good rule of thumb is if the factory torque spec for a given fastener is at or less than the 'rating' for a stainless fastener, you'll be safe using stainless.

                  Make sure you use anti-seize...
                  Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                  '78E original owner - resto project
                  '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                  '82 XJ rebuild project
                  '80SG restified, red SOLD
                  '79F parts...
                  '81H more parts...

                  Other current bikes:
                  '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                  '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                  '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                  Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                  Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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                  • #24
                    I've been wanting to do the same thing but I read in a couple of places that you can get corrosion by doing that because of "dissimilar metals". Maybe someone here can debunk this. I would think if the stock steel bolts don't cause a problem, SS shouldn't either, but who knows??
                    '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

                    Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by 11Rider View Post
                      I've been wanting to do the same thing but I read in a couple of places that you can get corrosion by doing that because of "dissimilar metals". Maybe someone here can debunk this. I would think if the stock steel bolts don't cause a problem, SS shouldn't either, but who knows??
                      The answer is yes and no. They will affect each other but it takes the correct environment for the corrosion to occur. That generally is moisture, which will start the galvanic action. A bucket of SS and aluminum together in a dry atmosphere will not corrode (at least not in our lifetime). And even an alomst microscopic seperation between the two will stop the corrosoive action altogether. So, even a drop of oil or a touch of anti-sieze on the threads only once will solve the problem. So, go for the SS bolts. I have a long time ago and have not had any corrosion whatsoever.
                      Mike Giroir
                      79 XS-1100 Special

                      Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by TADracer View Post
                        The answer is yes and no. They will affect each other but it takes the correct environment for the corrosion to occur. That generally is moisture, which will start the galvanic action. A bucket of SS and aluminum together in a dry atmosphere will not corrode (at least not in our lifetime). And even an alomst microscopic seperation between the two will stop the corrosoive action altogether. So, even a drop of oil or a touch of anti-sieze on the threads only once will solve the problem. So, go for the SS bolts. I have a long time ago and have not had any corrosion whatsoever.
                        I'll have to disagree at least partially with that. Stainless steel is softer than 'regular' steel and 'galls' easily. I have literally turned SS bolts into a clean, dry threaded hole by hand and had them seize when I tried to remove them, destroying the bolt and damaging the hole. Always use anti-seize with stainless, no matter what you're threading it into, or you're risking a broken bolt or galled threads. Oil isn't 100% effective, so you can still have problems.

                        Liberally use anti-seize and stainless bolts will be no problem; use nothing or just oil and they can be... DAMHIK

                        Loctite sells a 'chapstick' anti-seize applicator that works great.... cheap insurance. Works well on 'regular' bolts into aluminum too.
                        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                        '78E original owner - resto project
                        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                        '82 XJ rebuild project
                        '80SG restified, red SOLD
                        '79F parts...
                        '81H more parts...

                        Other current bikes:
                        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Fastener Pre-Load: A beautiful Thing.

                          Here's a link that sorta sums up the way that I "understand" and use on everything: bikes, boats, vehicles, motors, etc.

                          http://reviews.ebay.com/Stainless-Bo...00000001623345

                          <cringe..I usually hate to refer people to ebay for info but well...sometimes ya gotta go where ya gotta go, right??)

                          Crazysteve mentioned "galling" and for those that aren't aware that means COLD WELDING. Yup. The SS fasteners can and sometimes do become an irremovable fastener all by their lonesome. Of course I'm in a "marine" environment so whatever SS to dissimilar metal shenanigans that happen here do so much faster and with a greater enthusiasm. (Dissimilar metal molecules seem to know when the conditions are right for a corrosion party.)

                          Short version is that I have to use the SS fasteners on my boat in situations where ordinary steel would turn into a fuzzy brown/black mushroom over a single winter. On my bike: No. (Verboten!!)

                          It's just that I've "acquired" many bikes over the years and in various states of neglect/abuse. Along with the usual "purging" of the old/nasty fluids and the ordinary lubrication I also do that "20K" maintenance service that calls for checking/re-torquing every single fastener. (Can't really see many of them that are "optional" or don't keep something I need/want from falling off at road speed.) This does a lot to ease my worries and adds to my riding "comfort".

                          Problem in the past has been that sometimes the PO's have replaced fasteners that look purty in places they shouldn't. (IMO...) When I go in to loosen/re-torque I find out the hard way where these fasteners are. I mean the repair manual states the proper torque settings and "upgrading" to a purty fastener invalidates those numbers and at the most inconvenient time/places in my experience.

                          I'm ok with downgrading the torque 20% for all the fasteners where I myself have cleaned the threads and applied Anti-seize. But I have concerns and empathy for the "next" owner of any bike who may have the inclination to go through the same soul soothing process of re-torquing every available fastener on the bike to the proper degree. Are there really owners who have carefully documented the location and proper torque settings for fasteners which are "cosmetic" upgrades and do they include that paperwork as a supplement in the repair manual that follows the bike along with the transfer of title/ownership?

                          No fastener "Bling" for me...thank you.

                          I'll just wait for "Shabby Chic"to come back in fashion.

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                          • #28
                            I just bought some stainless socket bolts. When I ordered them, there are different grades of stainless. It can get complicated.
                            Marty (in Mississippi)
                            XS1100SG
                            XS650SK
                            XS650SH
                            XS650G
                            XS6502F
                            XS650E

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