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They are usually sold in kits that do all engine covers so you don't need to know the sizes. Do tell that that you want the polished ones if they sell both types.
Rob
Just remember that SS bolts a quite a bit WEAKER than the stock fasteners. Don't use them for anything critical!
That is true, but also keep in mind that many of the fasteners used on these bikes are overkill for the application. Good rule of thumb is if the factory torque spec for a given fastener is at or less than the 'rating' for a stainless fastener, you'll be safe using stainless.
Make sure you use anti-seize...
Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
I've been wanting to do the same thing but I read in a couple of places that you can get corrosion by doing that because of "dissimilar metals". Maybe someone here can debunk this. I would think if the stock steel bolts don't cause a problem, SS shouldn't either, but who knows??
'79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace
I've been wanting to do the same thing but I read in a couple of places that you can get corrosion by doing that because of "dissimilar metals". Maybe someone here can debunk this. I would think if the stock steel bolts don't cause a problem, SS shouldn't either, but who knows??
The answer is yes and no. They will affect each other but it takes the correct environment for the corrosion to occur. That generally is moisture, which will start the galvanic action. A bucket of SS and aluminum together in a dry atmosphere will not corrode (at least not in our lifetime). And even an alomst microscopic seperation between the two will stop the corrosoive action altogether. So, even a drop of oil or a touch of anti-sieze on the threads only once will solve the problem. So, go for the SS bolts. I have a long time ago and have not had any corrosion whatsoever.
Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.
The answer is yes and no. They will affect each other but it takes the correct environment for the corrosion to occur. That generally is moisture, which will start the galvanic action. A bucket of SS and aluminum together in a dry atmosphere will not corrode (at least not in our lifetime). And even an alomst microscopic seperation between the two will stop the corrosoive action altogether. So, even a drop of oil or a touch of anti-sieze on the threads only once will solve the problem. So, go for the SS bolts. I have a long time ago and have not had any corrosion whatsoever.
I'll have to disagree at least partially with that. Stainless steel is softer than 'regular' steel and 'galls' easily. I have literally turned SS bolts into a clean, dry threaded hole by hand and had them seize when I tried to remove them, destroying the bolt and damaging the hole. Always use anti-seize with stainless, no matter what you're threading it into, or you're risking a broken bolt or galled threads. Oil isn't 100% effective, so you can still have problems.
Liberally use anti-seize and stainless bolts will be no problem; use nothing or just oil and they can be... DAMHIK
Loctite sells a 'chapstick' anti-seize applicator that works great.... cheap insurance. Works well on 'regular' bolts into aluminum too.
Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
<cringe..I usually hate to refer people to ebay for info but well...sometimes ya gotta go where ya gotta go, right??)
Crazysteve mentioned "galling" and for those that aren't aware that means COLD WELDING. Yup. The SS fasteners can and sometimes do become an irremovable fastener all by their lonesome. Of course I'm in a "marine" environment so whatever SS to dissimilar metal shenanigans that happen here do so much faster and with a greater enthusiasm. (Dissimilar metal molecules seem to know when the conditions are right for a corrosion party.)
Short version is that I have to use the SS fasteners on my boat in situations where ordinary steel would turn into a fuzzy brown/black mushroom over a single winter. On my bike: No. (Verboten!!)
It's just that I've "acquired" many bikes over the years and in various states of neglect/abuse. Along with the usual "purging" of the old/nasty fluids and the ordinary lubrication I also do that "20K" maintenance service that calls for checking/re-torquing every single fastener. (Can't really see many of them that are "optional" or don't keep something I need/want from falling off at road speed.) This does a lot to ease my worries and adds to my riding "comfort".
Problem in the past has been that sometimes the PO's have replaced fasteners that look purty in places they shouldn't. (IMO...) When I go in to loosen/re-torque I find out the hard way where these fasteners are. I mean the repair manual states the proper torque settings and "upgrading" to a purty fastener invalidates those numbers and at the most inconvenient time/places in my experience.
I'm ok with downgrading the torque 20% for all the fasteners where I myself have cleaned the threads and applied Anti-seize. But I have concerns and empathy for the "next" owner of any bike who may have the inclination to go through the same soul soothing process of re-torquing every available fastener on the bike to the proper degree. Are there really owners who have carefully documented the location and proper torque settings for fasteners which are "cosmetic" upgrades and do they include that paperwork as a supplement in the repair manual that follows the bike along with the transfer of title/ownership?
No fastener "Bling" for me...thank you.
I'll just wait for "Shabby Chic"to come back in fashion.
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