1981 XS11 Special - DEAD DUCK Cafe

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Kurt,

You STOLE my idea! But it's only fair, since I'm borrowing your Sportster seat idea. Have you seen my thread about that, would like your input about it?!
I have found a bit more expensive R6 tank for ~$30.00 to salvage the gas cap area from!? I'm surprised you did a large rectangular weld section, but I guess that makes it easier to smooth out later , vs.trying to trace around in a circle??

Also, eBay sells BRAND NEW CAPS for like $13.00 free S&H, so curious about why you got a used one???

I haven't actually purchased the tank yet, will have to do another search for an R1 tank to see if I can find a trashed one cheaper!?

I didn't know about the small spring in the cap.

T.C.

[kboehringer]

A troublesome MOD.

Hey Kurt,
You STOLE my idea! But it's only fair, since I'm borrowing your Sportster seat idea. Have you seen my thread about that, would like your input about it?!

OOOOps... Ya' Caught Me! I LOVE my sporty seat and will help all I can! But HD has 'bout 10000 different seat designs for their sporty. Much nicer on the buttocks than any OEM XS11 seat!

I have found a bit more expensive R6 tank for ~$30.00 to salvage the gas cap area from!? I'm surprised you did a large rectangular weld section, but I guess that makes it easier to smooth out later , vs.trying to trace around in a circle??

I really struggled with fitting that section. The R6 tank is a little (not a lot) flatter in the area around the cap than the R1 BUT it has a chin recess in the front. I thought it would be easier to FLATTEN. The forming process for that OEM tank makes it nearly impossible to flatten so I made that donor section as small as possible. I also did not want to change the "LINES" of the OEM XS11 tank with a HUMP or something like that. Flattening the curves remaining from the R6 caused the tank metal to separate from the recess so there is like 30 pounds of MIG & Braze (exaggerating) under there.

I placed the inset as far forward as possible without causing any more pain or reducing fuel level. I think it's a wash on fuel level...maybe get an extra ounce or two.....

The R1 & R6 vent out the BOTTOM of the tank and they DRAIN out the BOTTOM. I really WANTED to plumb a drain out the bottom but could not find a clear area under the tank to attach the steel line (and then braze it in). It's plugged with braze. The cap will vent basically the same as the stock XS11. The vent "line" is brazed shut into the tank and I just removed the rubber seat from the cap hinge area so it will just vent to atmosphere above. We don't have emissions requirements like they do on the newer bikes....
This MOD is REAL PITA!!!!

Also, eBay sells BRAND NEW CAPS for like $13.00 free S&H, so curious about why you got a used one???.

I saw some of the China caps but I wanted the "YAMAHA" imprint on the cap. The Chinese caps don't have that.

My crap tank came without a key and with a cracked outer ring on the cap assy. (parts donor). Although some are asking ridiculous prices for used caps I found a nice one (without key) for $10. The DAY AFTER I found one for $15 WITH A KEY so I grabbed it too. When I got the one WITH key I couldn't get the key OUT. That's when I found out about the LITTLE SPRING! Now I have three caps... I'm gonna mess around with the spares and see if I can modify the tumblers to accept the ignition key!

I haven't actually purchased the tank yet, will have to do another search for an R1 tank to see if I can find a trashed one cheaper!?

Take a CLOSE look at the cap areas of the R6 & R1 (maybe others) to see if you can find the flattest spot AROUND the cap area. The R6 is better (in my opinion) than the R1 for this mod.

ALSO.... Be aware the differences in years... They have 7-bolt and 5-bolt versions.... MAKE SURE the parts you buy match... I almost screwed up.

I didn't know about the small spring in the cap.

It's soooooooo tiny it's almost invisible! If it gets rusty all the WD40 in the world sprayed down the key hole ain't gonna fix it and it won't let the key go! They talk about cap problems on all the R1/R6 boards....

KURT

[HalfCentury]

It may be the same? I know the newer R1/R6 uses a 7-bolt cap. This cap came from a '99 R1 but the donor metal is from an '01 R6.

For reference, this is a 2003, Gen 1, FJR1300 tank cap.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Kurt,

As HalfCentury posted, his has the 5 bolt pattern. I've seen the other caps with the 7 bolt pattern as well. However, looking at the actual TANK mounting holes, there are only 3, the 2 down beside the hinge, and then the 1 at 12 o'clock position opposite the hinge. The other bolts are merely cosmetic just narrowing the spacing by using 2 bolts one each side between the actual mounting bolts vs. only 1.

The tank I ordered also has only 3 mounting holes in it.

T.C.

[kboehringer]

FOUR attachment bolts + Two Decorative.

The tank I ordered also has only 3 mounting holes in it.
T.C.

T.C.,
Actually, it should have FOUR(4). You probably didn't notice it. There is ONE additional screw UNDER the cap assy. as seen in this pic.

Here you can clearly see the vent hole from the cap is linked via rubber boot to a tube brazed to the underside of the recess. The tube exited my R6 tank at the bottom. I was TOLD that in the early bikes it just attaches to a hose run all the way to the center stand area. I was also TOLD the newer bikes run it to some sort of evap. canister or some other emissions device. I removed the tube, brazed the hole shut and just removed the rubber boot. Should vent just like the OEM XS11 cap.



In this photo you will also see the TINY SPRING that causes all the "Can't get my key out" issues. I placed a dime in the photo for size reference. It is absolutely TINY and sooooo small it barely shows on the photo. That spring pushes the little gizmo that is on top of the dime in/out of position HOLDING the key.

Can you imagine, stopping for gas, fillin' 'er up and not being able to get the key back out of the lock and not being able to start the bike? Getting stuck somewhere because of a broken spring inside the gas cap? I love YAMAHA's machines but this seems like a "Crappy" set-up to me. I bet there are a bunch of R1/R6/FJR guys that would agree.

KURT

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Kurt,

Thanks, yes, the new cap shows 3 long screws/bolts and 1 small short screw/bolt.

Here's a shot of the gas cap area of the tank I bought! I see the 2 beside the hinge area, the 1 at 12 o'clock, the 1 that would be under the hinge, plus what looks like another one around the 9:30 position. But that hole shouldn't be a problem, can probably seal it with a screw, or even weld it fill it in!?



T.C.

[kboehringer]

But that hole shouldn't be a problem, can probably seal it with a screw, or even weld it fill it in!?

The hole at 9:30 is the cap area drain (rain, spilled gas). On the underside there is a pipe brazed to it that will run through and then out the bottom of the tank. I brazed it closed. Welding with braze on the other side could contaminate the weld and cause issues.
KURT

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Kurt,

Got the R1 tank. I don't have any brazing stuff, don't know HOW, so I will either cut off the tube, then tap thread the hole for a sealing bolt, or drill it out to remove any brazing stuff so I can then tig/weld the hole shut.

On a different subject, reviewed this thread regarding the side panels, and how they are mounted, saw the cross brace and threaded part for the screws. How did you make the side panels? Are they sheet metal with folded edges or what, they look so smooth?

Was also curious about the rear seat mounting, saw you used a hex head screw. Why didn't you get one of those fancy knurled knobs like on a Harley for easier removal??

T.C.

[fredintoon]

Hey Kurt,
Got the R1 tank. I don't have any brazing stuff, don't know HOW, so I will either cut off the tube, then tap thread the hole for a sealing bolt, or drill it out to remove any brazing stuff so I can then tig/weld the hole shut. - - -
T.C.

Hi TC,
FWIW, brazing ain't rocket science.
All you will need is a Bernz torch, brazing flux and brazing rod.
Buy the flux and rod at a welders supply shop, ask for low temperature rod.
Cleanliness is the beginning and end of the procedure.
Polish the area squeaky clean, mix up a thick slurry of the flux powder and water, slather it over the area and apply heat.
As the area heats to dull red the flux slurry will boil off it's water content and the powder will melt and flow over the area like molten glass.
Dab the brazing rod's end onto the area and it will melt and flow into the joint. Take the flame away and let the molten braze metal cool and solidify.

[kboehringer]

Supplies on the way within a day.

Hey Kurt,
I don't have any brazing stuff, don't know HOW.

Fredintoon pretty much covered that very well.... But, I think it's even easier than that. I just used a MAPP gas and flux covered rod. The area MUST BE spotless clean as Fred mentioned. If you have ANY residue of the braze near the tin and you attempt a weld it will be a disaster weld. Much easier to just continue the braze Yamaha did and fill the hole(s). It's basically the same as Silver Soldering. I will send you a rod or two, I have your address.

How did you make the side panels? Are they sheet metal with folded edges or what, they look so smooth? .

YES (and no). The sheet metal I used was scrap from work it is actually pieces of a metal beam from one of those quick-build structures. I was able to retain a SMALL portion of a fold which is at the top edge. The sides & bottom do not have it. I MAY have a couple pieces of this stuff left and it will also be mailed to your address, if I have it.

Why didn't you get one of those fancy knurled knobs like on a Harley for easier removal??

I really didn't know until your post how they mount the rear of the seat on an HD. My seat didn't even have the tab so that was fabricated of SS in-house too. I had a SS hex and since hex heads are all over the bike in one style or another I used it. That bolt also goes all the way through and helps to pull the plastic inner fender up into firm contact with the chrome fender (nice big fender washer on the bottom).

KURT

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Fred,

Thanks for the info/lesson on brazing. I'm not familiar with silver soldering either, just regular electrical type soldering. There is a welding store near where I work, that's where I picked up my Tig rods and replacement liner for my wire feeder. I'm sure they have some silver solder or brazing rods. I'll just have to pick up a Mapp gas torch. But I still like the idea of just drilling out the hole down to bare steel, tap and cap it with a bolt/fuel resistant sealing epoxy.

Kurt, thanks for the offer on the panels, but please don't. I have plans of using some 1/4" aluminum plate for mine. I'm looking closely at your fender setup to figure out how to modify mine. Since I'm going to a single seat, I'm going to be moving the saddlebags and trunk bag a little higher and more forward to help balance the load more over and in front of the rear wheel....this along with the new frame with the proper trail will help to reduce the tendency of my bike to wheelie so much!

T.C.

[kboehringer]

XS-R1 Tank Done..... Second thoughts...

Hey Kurt,
You STOLE my idea! T.C.

The XS-R1 Super Tank is done. I painted it today....

Side-By-Side with the stockish one......


Just swap over the petcocks and its done.....

Now, I'm not 100% sure I like it? Probably one that will grow on me with time. My son loves it.

KURT

[DeanR]

I think it looks great!

[madmax-im]

I love it too...

[Prisoner6]

Very custom, very tidy ...

I think it looks fantastic, Kurt!

I would love this mod for my SF!