Intermittent loss of power

[CatatonicBug]

Yeah, ok, after that wonderful explanation of the circuit, you would think I would have thought this through... Not until this morning did I realize that you wanted me to test the TCI terminals, and NOT the wires.

I tested the TCI terminals this morning, with the wires disconnected. NO continuity between pin 8 and 1, 5, or 7. So I guess we're good there.

[CaptonZap]

I tested the TCI terminals this morning, with the wires disconnected. NO continuity between pin 8 and 1, 5, or 7. So I guess we're good there.

OK, now, with the wires still disconnected, measure the ohms between the end of the grey wire at the coil and the other end of the grey wire at the 8 pin connecter. If you have continuity there, put the probe that was at the coil end of the grey wire over to the R/W terminal of the coil, and make sure that you have continuity through the coil. It will read a multi K ohm reading that way, so you may have to adjust your meter to a higher scale.

[CatatonicBug]

Not sure if I understand your instructions entirely.

TCI 8-pin connector unplugged, AND coil unplugged, gray wire has 0 ohms.
I plug the coil back in, and read from the TCI connector gray wire to the red/white wire in the coil plug, and I get 3 ohms. I have 3 ohm coils, so this makes sense.

[CatatonicBug]

I did some other tests, just set to see if it lead to anything.

Coil plugs unplugged, reading the supply wires to the coils, the instant I turn on the key (or turn OFF the kill switch), a reading on the orange wire and red/white gives 10.2v or so, for exactly 3 seconds, then drops to 0v. The gray wire doesn't do this, and reads 0v the whole time.

I do get voltage on the gray wire while she engine is running, but no spark on the plugs it feeds (2&3). It sounds like I'm not getting the pickup coil "pulse" to ground that it needs to actually fire that coil.

[CaptonZap]

I did some other tests, just set to see if it lead to anything.

Coil plugs unplugged, reading the supply wires to the coils, the instant I turn on the key (or turn OFF the kill switch), a reading on the orange wire and red/white gives 10.2v or so, for exactly 3 seconds, then drops to 0v. The gray wire doesn't do this, and reads 0v the whole time.

I do get voltage on the gray wire while she engine is running, but no spark on the plugs it feeds (2&3). It sounds like I'm not getting the pickup coil "pulse" to ground that it needs to actually fire that coil.

I'm confused. I thought you said that there was 0 V on the grey wire while running.
Have you ohmed the high tension side of the grey coil?
If not, when the 2-3 plugs are not firing, (hot, cold, ???), turn the engine off, take the plug wires off, set your ohm meter to the highest ohm scale, and measure between the two plug terminals, with or without the caps. You should get something. If it reads infinity, take the wires out of the coil, and measure between the two wire sockets, being sure that you get the probes onto the metal in the sockets. You should get many K ohms readings. If you don't, your secondary coil is open. Let me know what you find.

It might be best if you schedule some time that you can work on it and be by a computer, and you can PM me your e-mail address and we can do the test process in real time.

CZ

[CatatonicBug]

Well, I may have solved my problem! Last night, in a bout of frustration, I desoldered the TCI from its housing, to take a look at the underside of the board. Today, I touched up a few pins, and paid special attention to all the through-the-board points that didn't have a component in them. When reassembling, one of the pickup coil pins actually LIFTED the race off the board, away from one of the through-the-board points! To clean it up, I used a tiny, .032" drill bit, spun between my fingers, and drilled out the path. Then, I used a single strand of copper wire, and soldered it on both sides of the board. Once I resoldered all the pins, I plugged everything back in, and it ran perfectly!

I received my NGK plug caps in the mail today, and hunted down some 90deg. crimp-on plug terminals for the coil ends, and made my new, no-resistance wires. I reinstalled the iridium plugs (they have the threaded tops, to work with the NGK caps), and buttoned the bike back up. Took it on a 40+ mile test ride tonight, and the problem seems to be gone!

All of this, caused by a flaky contact in the TCI... At least I HOPE that's what the cause was.

[dbeardslee]

Well, I may have solved my problem! Last night, in a bout of frustration, I desoldered the TCI from its housing, to take a look at the underside of the board. Today, I touched up a few pins, and paid special attention to all the through-the-board points that didn't have a component in them. When reassembling, one of the pickup coil pins actually LIFTED the race off the board, away from one of the through-the-board points! To clean it up, I used a tiny, .032" drill bit, spun between my fingers, and drilled out the path. Then, I used a single strand of copper wire, and soldered it on both sides of the board. Once I resoldered all the pins, I plugged everything back in, and it ran perfectly!

I received my NGK plug caps in the mail today, and hunted down some 90deg. crimp-on plug terminals for the coil ends, and made my new, no-resistance wires. I reinstalled the iridium plugs (they have the threaded tops, to work with the NGK caps), and buttoned the bike back up. Took it on a 40+ mile test ride tonight, and the problem seems to be gone!

All of this, caused by a flaky contact in the TCI... At least I HOPE that's what the cause was.

Cool! CB working okay, too?

[CatatonicBug]

Cool! CB working okay, too?

Actually, yes! It's back to the slight ticking sound that it's always had. Can't hear it at freeway speeds.

[ViperRon]

They make filter kits for car stereos to remove the induction of noise. They are simple transformer and capacitor. Basically it chops that noise down to a level you could not here it. They have a CB noise filter on Ebay for like 9.00 now

[dbeardslee]

It would be interesting to see if the voltages have gone up at the TCI since your fix - but after all you've been through removing the seat again is probably the last thing you want to do.

[ViperRon]

Aw common now you know removing the seat pan is just the next step in finding what to fix next. Sooner you start the sooner you finish.