Passing Gear?

[DiverRay]

Depending on how many miles are on the engine, you may only need the springs.
Clutch is fairly easy, put bike on side stand, pull right clutch cover, be CAREFUL with the 10mm bolts holding in the springs, as it's easy to break the aluminum part they thread into. Check the maintenance section for the exact instructions and more hints.

[BA80]

Thanks everyone looks like I'm in the market for clutch springs and might as well get friction plates while I'm at it. Is this similar to doing my bike clutch jobs or much different?

Here's the springs you need. The others are too weak. Try the springs first, you most likely don't need friction parts.

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/...14&Search.y=10

[motoman]

If you were on a 'Busa, I'd say you were getting a bit of back wheel spin, but since we're talking under 100hp here... I'll throw my "It's tired 30 year old clutch springs" in there also. Is it possible you have a bit of a stumble and it finally starts hitting on all cylinders and feels like a passing gear? As smooth as these inline fours run, sometimes it's hard to tell when only three are hitting. Then when the 4th starts in, you feel the extra power.

Can't confirm or deny the 85mph limit in 3rd with stock final drive. That just SEEMS a little slow to me? I've been wrong lots of times though. With the final drive mod, it only changes the rpm at 70mph in 5th by 7-800 rpm and I can easily hit 100 in 3rd with lots of room before redline. (According to GPS, not stock speedo.. which only goes to 85 anyway. lol) The 17" rear tire gains you 3-400 rpm if I remember right.

Anyway, Barnett Springs. They're your friend. Until you're stuck in traffic. lol.

Spot -on for that first paragraph Tod. Not so much for the second paragraph. as 85mph in third gear IS spot-on with stock final drive for the Standard with the 17in. rear wheel((88mph with the Conti-Go tires).. ......BTW, know it's been 'a day or two' since you've had the taller geared final drive, bur rpm difference between the two in fifth gear IS 400rpm.

[Roncoach70]

Thanks everyone for the advise. Greg, thanks for the clutch spring info. Am I remembering correctly that the friction plates can swell over time leading to slippage, or am I dreaming again. This one is my second SF and it has 15,000 miles on it.
Thanks Ron

[BA80]

I've never run into any, swollen or worn beyond specs. Some here claim to have but in all the engines I've experienced, and the engines my friends have experienced, the XS/XJ clutches are weak from the factory, especially after 30+ years the springs lose enough tension the clutch slips. Not to start an oil thread but the type of oil you run in your engine can affect your clutch AND your starter clutch.

15K ain't nothing, some of us put that many miles on in a summer.

[motoman]

Thanks everyone for the advise. Greg, thanks for the clutch spring info. Am I remembering correctly that the friction plates can swell over time leading to slippage, or am I dreaming again. This one is my second SF and it has 15,000 miles on it.
Thanks Ron

Low mileage there)if mileage is in fact original), but I would be inclined to an adjustment needed at the throw-out assembly. Meaning set cable adjustment or remove cable at lever completely, then remove right-side inspection cover. From there, loosen lock-nut on the center small shaft, back it out, then start in till you initially JUST feel a slight resistance. Then back screw out half to three quarters turn ONLY. Hook up cable and adjust it for just a minimal free play,,,,,,,,,,,go ride with a grin and don't forget to re-tighten loc-nut at throw-out bearing prior to test ride. USe new dino oik of your flavor, but 20-50w year round..........now go for a gear slammin' ride........don't loose the grin

[Roncoach70]

I bought this one 5years ago from a guy my wife worked with that hardly ever rode it. It had 10,000 miles on it. Fortunately it lived in his garage. I changed all the fluids when I got it, and have run Mobil 1 15W50 in it since I've owned it. Unfortunately I broke my back at work shortly after I got this bike and am just now able to ride more than just a few miles at a time.
Thanks to all.

[Roncoach70]

No gear slammin Moto I'm a reformed 7,500 rpm max guy. Don't want to get a bad second gear or take out a valve. I'll keep walking toward the light as long as you guys keep pointing it at me.

[Roncoach70]

Thanks Moto, I will try adjusting down at the clutch first.
Ron

[BA80]

have run Mobil 1 15W50

I think we've found the problem..............


These clutches don't like synthetic oil or any additives. Just plain old no additive 20w50 is what these things like. Some here that have put more modern friction materials, or those that don't ride hard, get away with synthetics but they will still run the risk of starter clutch issues.

Chose a dino oil with this type of API service stamp, blank at the bottom. No high mileage formula, and no fuel mileage formula. Plain Jane freaking oil.

[Roncoach70]

Greg, I used to run Castrol GTX in my first SF that is now my parts bike. So much for me thinking I'm doing a good thing. The nice thing is it will be a crapload cheaper for oil.
Thanks I need to put you on retainer.
Ron

[jwhughes3]

Thanks I need to put you on retainer.
Ron

He prefers Busch.



John

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Ron,

Hope you don't think the Castrol killed your first XS??

The piston/ring/cylinder clearances are too loose to benefit from Synth as well, the oil gets contaminated at 2-3k miles, and that's the recommended change interval...so that's another reason why Synth is a waste on these machines. Aside from Castrol....many here also use just Walmart 20/50 as well. Would recommend putting in some MMO and running it a little while prior to draining/exchanging the oil...can help FLUSH out the SYNTH.

But even with the proper oil...your clutches may still develop some slipping due to the aforementioned weak springs situation...being 30+ years old, and continually compressed within the basket!

T.C.

[BA80]

I and pretty much everyone I know run the Wally World house brand 20w50 (first pic) and we run some miles, HARD miles. (SuperTech)

I ran Rotella 15w40 when I first got this XS because I had used it in other bikes with no issues and my clutch slipped like crazy. Changed it to this and the slip stopped........until the springs got weak.

[trbig]

BTW, know it's been 'a day or two' since you've had the taller geared final drive, bur rpm difference between the two in fifth gear IS 400rpm.

And that statement would be incorrect. That's the difference between a 16 and 17" wheel, not the final drive swaps. The final drive swap is 7-800 rpm lower than stock in 5th gear at 70. (4200 rpm on my bike, some say 4300 rpm vs 5k stock) After the final drive swap, 4th gear is identical to stock 5th gear.

This is also why I questioned the 85mph statement in 3rd when stock since mine hits 100mph way before even 7k rpm in 3rd.