Passing Gear?

[Roncoach70]

OK guys I'm off to wall mart after work tomorrow. TC (MMO)=Marvel Mystery Oil? Do you think the Mobil 1 damaged the friction plates?
Thank you all for your insight. You may even see my $750.00 SF if I ever figure out how to download a photo onto the sight.:confused

[BA80]

You may even see my $750.00 SF if I ever figure out how to download a photo onto the sight.:confused

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB4QFjAAahUKEwjk0K2JsNzHAhXIzoAKHX8YC8E&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdeveloper.photobucket.com%2F&usg=AFQjCNFSQbBxwC0oGsAAYNvht_CEReWVVw

[motoman]

I bought this one 5years ago from a guy my wife worked with that hardly ever rode it. It had 10,000 miles on it. Fortunately it lived in his garage. I changed all the fluids when I got it, and have run Mobil 1 15W50 in it since I've owned it. Unfortunately I broke my back at work shortly after I got this bike and am just now able to ride more than just a few miles at a time.
Thanks to all.

Moibil 1 was NOT a good choice, specially for the friction DISC. That material is NOT compatable with the stock fricion disc. It can and WILL cause slippage under hard accelleration from third gear up.

[TopCatGr58]

OK guys I'm off to wall mart after work tomorrow. TC (MMO)=Marvel Mystery Oil? Do you think the Mobil 1 damaged the friction plates?
Thank you all for your insight. You may even see my $750.00 SF if I ever figure out how to download a photo onto the sight.:confused

Hey Ron,

I don't think the Mobil 1 damaged your frictions, but folks have reported that it's taken more than 1 oil change to get rid of the affects of the SYNTH on their clutches...reduced slippage without doing any other adjustments or engine work....and I thought that the MMO(YES) will act as a decent yet SAFE flushing agent vs. using actual ENGINE OIL FLUSH. Put it in the engine oil BEFORE draining....warm up engine, on center stand and run thru the gears actuating the clutch a lot....or even go for a short ride, then drain oil/filter and refill. Don't forget to check the adjustments at the engine under the little clutch case side cover, as well as the handlebar.

Greg posted the link to PHOTOBUCKET....so you need to establish an account with them...it's free! THEN you can create some folders. Then you can upload your photos to those folders. THEN when you review them, you'll see an IMG set of URL/Links beside the photo.....COPY that link/URL. Then paste it into your message on our site....you can use the Insert Image button, or just ensure that you have the URL....the http://....photobucket.com/###.JPG with the [ IMG ] ..... [ /IMG ] tags around it....these are shown with extra spaces in them so that they will show as just TEXT here instead of trying to act like the basic code they are and SHOW a photo....but would only show a little red X box instead!

T.C.

[motoman]

Greg, I used to run Castrol GTX in my first SF that is now my parts bike. So much for me thinking I'm doing a good thing. The nice thing is it will be a crapload cheaper for oil.
Thanks I need to put you on retainer.
Ron

Castrol GTX 20-40w was all that was available in weight properties back in the day. Mine had many a quart of that 34yrs. ago when I bought the bike new. NEVER an issuebeing good ole' dino oil.

[Bonz]

5th gear with the FD swap on my Special dropped RPM from 4000 rpm at 60 mph down to 3600 rpm, 400 rpm difference. It is not possible for another 10 mph (70 mph) to bump that up to a 700-800 rpm difference. I am not wanting to argue, but that is the same day, back to back difference when I did the swap. 700-800 rpm difference at 70 mph is not accurate...

Period tests have the Special doing 4,000 rpm at 60 mph, which agrees exactly with the SG and the stock FD. Now the SG shows 3600 rpm at 60 mph as stated with the FD swap. To get a 700-800 rpm difference, the bike would have to be running about 120 mph, as doubling mph would double the rpm in any fixed gear system, such as an XS1100 solidly in 5th gear.

As was said, period tests have the Standard turning 3600 rpm at 60 mph, which is the same rpm as a Special with an FD swap. True Story.

And synthetic oil will not cause a clutch to slip in and of itself! Synthetic oil is simply higher grade Dino oil as a base stock. IT IS THE ADDITIVES THAT CAN CAUSE THE CLUTCH TO SLIP, not the oil. And synthetic oils use no different additives than regular oil. If it is a non-energy conserving oil, it is fine to use. Please read up on the Internet, it is so widely known anymore we shouldn't be having this discussion! But I love you guys and discussion is fun, right?

[motoman]

5th gear with the FD swap on my Special dropped RPM from 4000 rpm at 60 mph down to 3600 rpm, 400 rpm difference. It is not possible for another 10 mph (70 mph) to bump that up to a 700-800 rpm difference. I am not wanting to argue, but that is the same day, back to back difference when I did the swap. 700-800 rpm difference at 70 mph is not accurate...

Period tests have the Special doing 4,000 rpm at 60 mph, which agrees exactly with the SG and the stock FD. Now the SG shows 3600 rpm at 60 mph as stated with the FD swap. To get a 700-800 rpm difference, the bike would have to be running about 120 mph, as doubling mph would double the rpm in any fixed gear system, such as an XS1100 solidly in 5th gear.

As was said, period tests have the Standard turning 3600 rpm at 60 mph, which is the same rpm as a Special with an FD swap. True Story.

Amen to that one too!.

[BA80]

As was said, period tests have the Standard turning 3600 rpm at 60 mph, which is the same rpm as a Special with an FD swap. True Story.

Agreed Bonz. I've ridden with several Standards with my Special w/the swap and disregarding the inaccurate tachs, the engine harmonics are exactly the same. I think the Standard will be putting more power to the ground though because the gearing is what puts it to the road.

IMHO

[Bonz]

If a Special with the FD swap and a Standard with the stock FD are turning the same rpm at 60 mph, there isn't any difference in "power to the road" assuming similar engine tunes.

[BA80]

Maybe, but it seems so.

[Bonz]

Truly, it isn't a "maybe", it's physics. However, the feeling can be different for sure, but in the world of "action/reaction" the two would be identical in performance all else equal.

[motoman]

Agreed Bonz. I've ridden with several Standards with my Special w/the swap and disregarding the inaccurate tachs, the engine harmonics are exactly the same. I think the Standard will be putting more power to the ground though because the gearing is what puts it to the road.

IMHO

The lower gearing gives quicker max. torque.......specially to the 60ft. mark in the quarter mile runs............and that IS agiven. The taller gear ratio of the 850drive WILL allow the bike(Standard or Special) to make the big end of the quarter mile in third, where as the stock gearing makes you have to jump to fourth gear for a short on the big end. Only negative with that, is fighting mother nature gives bike an ever so slight bog feeling........BTDT many a time with my Venturer.

[trbig]

Amen to that one too!.

Amen to what? Incorrect information and "Facts" based on assumptions at lower speeds than was being discussed?

If a Special with the FD swap and a Standard with the stock FD are turning the same rpm at 60 mph

More disinformation. As stated, by testing against several other bikes, the gearing ratios and measurements all done in the past, the 17" rear tire reduces 3-400 rpm AT 70 MILES PER HOUR. It falls in between stock and the final drive mod.

What is identical is a stock final drive with a 16" tire in 5th and a 16" tire with the final drive mod in 4th.

Everyone I know that's ever done the final drive mod, including me, who tested it the same day stock vs after swap got a 7-800 rpm reduction at 70mph. There seems to be so much disinformation going on here lately and assumptions have taken over any real world facts. So instead of continued arguing, and "Assuming" most agree that my previous statement of the 4th gear stock vs 5th gear after mod is correct (But I guess we can argue on that as well and have someone post GPS speeds at 70 with stock fd /16" tire and show their rpm) here's a video. I start in 4th at 70, which equates 5k rpm, which is what a stock bike is doing at 70. I shift to 5th, and magically, and according to Bonz "not possible"... somehow my rpm is reduced by @ 800 rpm?

http://vid30.photobucket.com/albums/c337/trbig/GOPR6420_zpstoqyitwm.mp4

According to your "Logic", since the 4th and 5th are identical in mod vs stock respectively, shifting to 5th would only be a 3-400 rpm difference, and that logic makes sense to you? People come on here to get good, solid info from us and the amount of sketchy info lately is not good in my opinion.

Now, I also did a 100mph run in 3rd and I was incorrect on that. 100mph was 8700 rpm for me. So the question is... do you gain 15mph at redline in 3rd with the FD mod?

So.. is it at least possible to put the rpm change at 70 between the two FD to rest? I wish we could have someone post a video of a standard with a 17" wheel post their rpm at 70 according to GPS to clear that one up as well.

[motoman]

Now, I also did a 100mph run in 3rd and I was incorrect on that. 100mph was 8700 rpm for me. So the question is... do you gain 15mph at redline in 3rd with the FD mod?

Not hat t I've seen Tod.

[motoman]

So.. is it at least possible to put the rpm change at 70 between the two FD to rest? I wish we could have someone post a video of a standard with a 17" wheel post their rpm at 70 according to GPS to clear that one up as well. HiHi Tod, 4600rpm@70mph on my Venturer having the 17in. rear wheel,but those ContiGos ARE extremely tall and wider than comparable other brands if that satisfies ya.