Old Swampgirl is getting a little grumpy of late...seems that if she is cold she'll start right up with no glitches...ride it somewhere and turn it off and upon restarting it the switch is dead unless I push it multiple times or try to pressure the switch slightyly off center...it then will engage the starter and start...but several times it has done this now...I'm fairly certain its dirty in ther and want to take it apart...a search for tech tips here did not yield any results...so before i just take it apart...what tips are there...do's dont's...? TIA
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Be careful removing the start button assembly from the housing that you don't dislodge the solders. It was easiest for me to remove the little brackets that keep the wires inline. There's not much wiggle room if you don't take off the screwed in tabs.81 xs1100 SH
81 xs1100 SH (parts)
80 suzuki gs550et
07 suzuki S40
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Soak the entire assembly in Evapo-Rust.
Motoman and I did that for the right-hand control on his '81 Venturer and it not only removed the dirt and rust from all of the small parts without the tedious and meticulous cleaning, it cleaned up the colors too.
The control wasn't too seriously sun-baked but it was totally obvious that the Evapo-Rust removed the oxidation from the surfaces of the red and black plastics used for the kill switch lever and from the black paint on the housing. Neither one of us really understand why it worked because the paint and the plastic don't have any iron in them.
.-- Scott
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2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
1979 XS1100F: parts
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.
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Originally posted by 3Phase View PostSoak the entire assembly in Evapo-Rust.
Motoman and I did that for the right-hand control on his '81 Venturer and it not only removed the dirt and rust from all of the small parts without the tedious and meticulous cleaning, it cleaned up the colors too.
The control wasn't too seriously sun-baked but it was totally obvious that the Evapo-Rust removed the oxidation from the surfaces of the red and black plastics used for the kill switch lever and from the black paint on the housing. Neither one of us really understand why it worked because the paint and the plastic don't have any iron in them.
.1980 XS650G Special-Two
1993 Honda ST1100
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No, you don't have to take anything apart. Use some brake cleaner or your own favorite degreaser on the kill switch and start button parts to get rid of any old white grease that might still be in there from the factory, then just drop it in the Evapo-Rust.
Use the wires on the control to dunk it like a tea bag so fresh(er) solution will reach the rust and it won't take too long to get rid of the rust. Rinse out the assembly until no more black gunk that used to be rust will come out of it, then spray some new white grease in the kill switch and start button.
Motoman's control was soaked overnight but that was because we were doing other stuff to the bikes at the time and neither one of us wanted to fool with it at the time. I haven't tried it on my own controls yet so don't know how long it takes to clean the paint and the plastic parts but it's on the list of stuff I need to do when I get off my tail and get back to work on Columbo.
.-- Scott
_____
♬
2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
1979 XS1100F: parts
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.
♬
Comment
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I was having the same sort of issue with mine a while back and I thought it was the start button also. Turned out to be an issue with the starter solenoid.Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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Originally posted by 3Phase View PostNo, you don't have to take anything apart. Use some brake cleaner or your own favorite degreaser on the kill switch and start button parts to get rid of any old white grease that might still be in there from the factory, then just drop it in the Evapo-Rust.
Use the wires on the control to dunk it like a tea bag so fresh(er) solution will reach the rust and it won't take too long to get rid of the rust. ,Rinse out the assembly until no more black gunk that used to be rust will come out of it then spray some new white grease in the kill switch and start button.
Motoman's control was soaked overnight but that was because we were doing other stuff to the bikes at the time and neither one of us wanted to fool with it at the time. I haven't tried it on my own controls yet so don't know how long it takes to clean the paint and the plastic parts but it's on the list of stuff I need to do when I get off my tail and get back to work on Columbo.
.1980 XS650G Special-Two
1993 Honda ST1100
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I had a picture of the bad Start solenoid on Columbo that caused a maddening erratic start problem too. I can look for it if you want but one of the wires had broken off inside the solenoid at the solder joint and the broken wire made intermittent contact with the solder blob. It gradually arced a pit in the solder until it quit working because the pit got too deep and the wire couldn't touch the solder any more.
Have you ever worked with Evapo-Rust or any of the other brands that are pretty much all the same formula made under license? It's water soluble and you have to rinse it off, preferably with soap and warm water or it will leave a slight residue along with some black gunk that used to be rust but is now encapsulated iron trapped by the Evapo-Rust.
After you rinse the gunk out of the kill switch and Start button you can take everything apart, inspect and clean it some more or just dab some white grease on the moving parts by hand, then put it back together but you don't really need to do that.
White lithium grease comes in a can with a straw like WD-40 so before you put the control back on the handlebar just spray some grease into the kill switch and Start button parts inside the control housing. Don't spray too much grease or it'll make a sticky mess.
.-- Scott
_____
♬
2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
1979 XS1100F: parts
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.
♬
Comment
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Originally posted by madmax-im View PostHopefully it isnt that...first things first thoughGreg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
Comment
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Originally posted by 3Phase View PostI had a picture of the bad Start solenoid on Columbo that caused a maddening erratic start problem too. I can look for it if you want but one of the wires had broken off inside the solenoid at the solder joint and the broken wire made intermittent contact with the solder blob. It gradually arced a pit in the solder until it quit working because the pit got too deep and the wire couldn't touch the solder any more.
Have you ever worked with Evapo-Rust or any of the other brands that are pretty much all the same formula made under license? It's water soluble and you have to rinse it off, preferably with soap and warm water or it will leave a slight residue along with some black gunk that used to be rust but is now encapsulated iron trapped by the Evapo-Rust.
After you rinse the gunk out of the kill switch and Start button you can take everything apart, inspect and clean it some more or just dab some white grease on the moving parts by hand, then put it back together but you don't really need to do that.
White lithium grease comes in a can with a straw like WD-40 so before you put the control back on the handlebar just spray some grease into the kill switch and Start button parts inside the control housing. Don't spray too much grease or it'll make a sticky mess.
.1980 XS650G Special-Two
1993 Honda ST1100
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Originally posted by madmax-im View Postalright... Thanks Scott....never used evapo-rust...seems to me that using water to rinse out the other stuff is counter productive to preventing further rust? I guess some compressed air would be a good way to dry the internals..no?
You can let it air dry or use compressed air if you want to put it back together and go ride. The Start button spring might get a little flash rust but nothing serious before it gets greased.
.-- Scott
_____
♬
2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
1979 XS1100F: parts
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.
♬
Comment
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Rust Remover
Originally posted by BowlingSS View PostWhere do you get Evapo-Rust? I have never used it.
Bill
http://www.amazon.com/Workshop-Hero-...s=rust+remover
http://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-ER0...s=rust+remover1981 XS1100H Venturer
K&N Air Filter
ACCT
Custom Paint by Deitz
Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
Stebel Nautilus Horn
EBC Front Rotors
Limie Accent Moves On In 2015
Mike
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