30 dollar find. 79 xs1100

[MPittma100]

Test

So as not to waste time or money, you should run a compression test prior to installing anything back on the bike. Check valve lash next. These two items are priorities. If both are good, proceed to the rest of the fuel system - tank, petcocks, fuel lines, fuel filters. My guess is that there is heavy rust in the tank.

You are now going to need all four matching locks from another bike if you want to have one key for all of them. May want to exercise a little more patience before using the flat blade/wrench repair method. A replacement key would have cost $7.00.

[Dave_D]

So as not to waste time or money, you should run a compression test prior to installing anything back on the bike. Check valve lash next. These two items are priorities. If both are good, proceed to the rest of the fuel system - tank, petcocks, fuel lines, fuel filters. My guess is that there is heavy rust in the tank.

You are now going to need all four matching locks from another bike if you want to have one key for all of them. May want to exercise a little more patience before using the flat blade/wrench repair method. A replacement key would have cost $7.00.

There is heavy rust in the tank. I will probably fill it to the top with vinager I had success with the on a old xl80 tank

As for the key I was not able to read the 4 numbers I could see where they were but looked like someone had terrible aim with the key. Could faintly make out some of the numbers but I wasent ready to guess. Now I have many keys that will work. And it still looks like normal

[DiverRay]

So as not to waste time or money, you should run a compression test prior to installing anything back on the bike. Check valve lash next. These two items are priorities. If both are good, proceed to the rest of the fuel system - tank, petcocks, fuel lines, fuel filters. My guess is that there is heavy rust in the tank.

I'm going to say something different here, Marty.
Put ATF/acetone mixture into the spark plug holes, and re-install the plugs loosely. let it set for two days, and remove plugs, turn over engine. The ATF has a LOT of rust inhibitors in it, and will help loosen up stuck rings.
It will probably have low compression on one or two cylinders for about 250 miles. The Valves may also seem too tight, but should loosen after just a few miles. This is from recent experience....
Great find! Welcome to the madness.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dave,

Folks haven't commented but I have a concern about your soaking the carbs in KEROSENE! I don't recall what the butterfly shaft seals are made of..I would think/hope they are VITON or Neoprene to be resistance to fuel, but not sure?? Other caustic carb cleaners are very damaging to the seals, will either eat/dissolve them, or cause them to swell and soften badly.

Just wanted you to be aware of this aspect of cleaning the carb bodies!

T.C.

[MPittma100]

Access

If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, it does the best job on carburetors and associated parts - including rubber.

[jwhughes3]

Hey Dave,

Folks haven't commented but I have a concern about your soaking the carbs in KEROSENE! I don't recall what the butterfly shaft seals are made of..I would think/hope they are VITON or Neoprene to be resistance to fuel, but not sure?? Other caustic carb cleaners are very damaging to the seals, will either eat/dissolve them, or cause them to swell and soften badly.

Just wanted you to be aware of this aspect of cleaning the carb bodies!

T.C.

TC,
Kerosene IS fuel. Its similar to diesel in its oil qualities. Can't imagine for the life of me why it would not be safe for carbs.

Acetone now, thats different.

John

[3Phase]

Deoderized kerosene is used in parts cleaners. It won't bother the buna-n/nitrile throttle shaft seals unless you leave them in the kerosene for... a lot longer than it takes to soak and clean the carburetors.

.