I read the other posts on this but I feel like I'm missing something I tried to pry the spacer over but I only get a millimeter of space on the inner race on the right side bearing not enough space to plant a screw driver or steel drift. Has anyone made a tutorial of this?
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How the heck do you get the front bearings out
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Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Replacement Harbor Freight will have a cheap version of the tool.
I've done it with a brass drift from the backside. It's not always easy to push the spacer out of the way and the bearing always gets wrecked.Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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Originally posted by jetmechmarty View PostMotorcycle Wheel Bearing Replacement Harbor Freight will have a cheap version of the tool.
I've done it with a brass drift from the backside. It's not always easy to push the spacer out of the way and the bearing always gets wrecked.Last edited by OMCC; 06-28-2015, 10:40 AM.79 F Bobber/Cafe Hybrid
Rasputin on Carburators:
"It is just a mechanical beast that defies logic."
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Get a tall 5 gallon bucket clean all grease and dirt off of wheel and around hub. Get propane torch and run it around and round the hub of the wheel and then turn the wheel upside down over the bucket the bearing will nearly drop out.
You heat the hub do not get so close or leave heat in one spot so long you scorch the paint. If bearing does not drop usually just use an extension bar slid in and tap out they come.
Do both sides let cool clean grease and dirt from inner hub. Spray race with light oil wheel on bucket and now put bearing into race and go around the hub with torch again and a slight tap from a mallet handle should go in easy. For second bearing you have to do leaning to the side as heating will cause other bearing to slide out easily as you push second bearing in.
If this does not work easy then you must either have a wheel someone put lock tight on or its corroded.To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.
Rodan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
1980 G Silverbird
Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
1198 Overbore kit
Grizzly 660 ACCT
Barnett Clutch Springs
R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
122.5 Main Jets
ACCT Mod
Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
Antivibe Bar ends
Rear trunk add-on
http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/
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Originally posted by ViperRon View PostGet a tall 5 gallon bucket clean all grease and dirt off of wheel and around hub. Get propane torch and run it around and round the hub of the wheel and then turn the wheel upside down over the bucket the bearing will nearly drop out.
You heat the hub do not get so close or leave heat in one spot so long you scorch the paint. If bearing does not drop usually just use an extension bar slid in and tap out they come.
Do both sides let cool clean grease and dirt from inner hub. Spray race with light oil wheel on bucket and now put bearing into race and go around the hub with torch again and a slight tap from a mallet handle should go in easy. For second bearing you have to do leaning to the side as heating will cause other bearing to slide out easily as you push second bearing in.
If this does not work easy then you must either have a wheel someone put lock tight on or its corroded.79 F Bobber/Cafe Hybrid
Rasputin on Carburators:
"It is just a mechanical beast that defies logic."
Comment
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Originally posted by OMCC View PostWould this one work http://m.harborfreight.com/blind-hol...ler-95987.htmlMarty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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I do take Rotors off as they work as heat sinks but usually as the grease starts to bubble and it takes way more than a couple of minutes they pop out. Now if you have painted the wheel with something like Krylon plastic coat it may burn the paint but I have never had an issue with the original paint. You will be better with the tool Marty suggested.To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.
Rodan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
1980 G Silverbird
Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
1198 Overbore kit
Grizzly 660 ACCT
Barnett Clutch Springs
R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
122.5 Main Jets
ACCT Mod
Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
Antivibe Bar ends
Rear trunk add-on
http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/
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Got it out
What I ended up doing was using this kit http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-h...ler-95987.html
I connected all the pieces and expand the head in the bearing then I flipped the wheel over and set it on some saw horses so that the slide hammer was hanging from the wheel.
then I took a screw driver wide enough to span the inner race and placed the head on the bottom side of the bearing pullers teeth. I then hit the screw driver with a dead blow hammer alternating between the two pairs of teeth kinda like this(-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-) after dropping the hammer of thor on it a handful of time the bearing popped out.79 F Bobber/Cafe Hybrid
Rasputin on Carburators:
"It is just a mechanical beast that defies logic."
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[QUOTE=jetmechmarty;466832]Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Replacement Harbor Freight will have a cheap version of the tool.
That's a nifty tool but I have never had the need for one. I do one or two wheel bearings a year on my kids dirt bikes (three bikes + too much mud) and I have not had a problem yet with a brass punch, the spacer slides sideways easily. My front wheel bearing in my 80G are iffy, I will probably have to replace them soon. I hope I don't have to go through all this crap. This is the first "old bike" I have owned prior to this my bikes were 5 -15 years old. It seems like there is a lot of murphy's law going on with old bikes.
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