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Front Brake - MC on riser bars

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  • Front Brake - MC on riser bars

    Looking for a little advice. If there are pre-existing posts please just send a link. Thanks.


    (Does my picture show up? If not, how do you attach photos to posts?)

    Changed my stock handlebars for a riser. I've been having brake issues this past year and I'm wondering if the angle of the MC is part of the problem? When the bike is upright, the stock MC sits at about a 30 degree angle now, slanted downwards towards centre of bike. The new bar setup also means the brake line is about 6 inches too long and creates an arc in the line as it comes from the MC to the Y joint. So my other question is when replacing the brake lines (SS of course), keep the Y setup or run two lines from MC to calipers?

    Problems:
    Last Fall: front calipers seized.
    This past April: took the calipers off, had a mechanic check them out and rebuild. Using Dot-3 fluid as per the manual - reconnected the brake lines to the calipers, hand pumped the brake until fluid coming out of the bleeders was clean and bubble free.
    Brake worked fine for a time, but got increasingly stiffer, until the lever was at a point where when pulled there was no feathering possible, it would just go full on. Loosened brake lever using the adjustment screw/lockwasher. Worked OK for a day or two, then the front caliper started grabbing again. Front right disc was extremely hot. I cracked the bleeder and the front wheel moved freely again. I checked the left disc, not very hot, and did not produce any fluid when bled.

    What I plan to do next:
    -Pull the calipers and check if they are seized.
    -Drain the system.
    -Remove old brake lines.
    -Using MC kit, clean and rebuild - unless the angle is an issue.
    -Get SS brake lines, not sure to keep Y joint or not

  • #2
    Sounds like a textbook case of a clogged 'splooge' hole in the master cylinder, possibly aggravated by a sticking caliper piston. Fully disassemble both calipers (something I suspect the mechanic didn't do) and make sure the groove that the piston seal fits into is spotlessly clean. Corrosion behind this seal is the main cause of dragging brakes. Also rebuild the master cylinder, again making sure it's spotlessly clean inside. Details here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37209

    I'd continue to run the 'Y' when replacing hoses, as any hose will expand under pressure, so the less hose there is the better. On my personal bikes, once I've got the handlebars where I want them I fabricate a hard line from the master to the 'Y' or bottom of the forks.

    As to the master cylinder angle, that makes little difference once the system is bled. You do want the master as full as possible and angle can make bleeding a bit difficult sometimes, so getting it level during this will help.
    Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

    '78E original owner - resto project
    '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
    '82 XJ rebuild project
    '80SG restified, red SOLD
    '79F parts...
    '81H more parts...

    Other current bikes:
    '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
    '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
    '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
    Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
    Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

    Comment


    • #3
      Thank you Crazy Steve.

      I've got the hoses ordered. Now I'm rebuilding the caliper, following Rob's tutorial that you showed me.

      The snap ring looks super rusted, if it's too corroded too remove, is there another way?

      Also, do you know of a way to remove the Yamaha decal between the forks so I can better access the Y joint of the brake lines?

      I have pictures to show you but I still can't figure out how to attach them. Do they have to be already online somewhere? The photo icon seems to only want to link to a URL.

      Comment


      • #4
        The snap ring looks super rusted, if it's too corroded too remove, is there another way?

        Nope, that's got to come out. That's probably the worst part about rebuilding the front master. If it's that bad, figure on a replacement.
        Also, do you know of a way to remove the Yamaha decal between the forks so I can better access the Y joint of the brake lines?

        You have to remove the top tree, then the headlight ears, then that will slide up and off. You can also unbolt the junction, then put it in a vise to remove the hoses. It's a bit of a PITA...
        I have pictures to show you but I still can't figure out how to attach them. Do they have to be already online somewhere? The photo icon seems to only want to link to a URL.

        Save your pics to a open, public online picture service (Photobucket is most peoples' choice) then link to it.
        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

        '78E original owner - resto project
        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
        '82 XJ rebuild project
        '80SG restified, red SOLD
        '79F parts...
        '81H more parts...

        Other current bikes:
        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

        Comment

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