Now Hands-On Help Needed Carb cleaning in Tampa Fla.

[Bonz]

I hear you, just don't torch it... With the guys helping you at this moment, you have some of the best carb guru's at your finger tips.

Who/what was your source for the parts? Float needles and needle seat o-rings particularly. Is it a TIGHT fit when you press in the needle seat with the new o-ring on it?

1980+ vs 78-79 carbs are very different in the floats (plastic vs brass), float needles (Viton tipped vs metal tipped) and needle seats (press fit with o-ring vs screw-in). Just making sure you have the apples matched up with the apples, per se.

[motoman]

Jeff, I've carefully re-read ALL this post, and nowhere have you said that you've removed the vacuum diaphrams, and after removing main jets, removal and cleaning of the emulsion tubes, specificly the tiny side holes using a round toothpic........and no, "look clean' ain't gonna work. Same goes for the pilot jets. In short, if your not using magnifying glass to inspect inside opening cavity of pilot jets, another waste of your time and effort.
Looking at it with a magnifying glass you'll see that opening jet sizing end(screwdriver slot side) opens to a WIDER cavity. Other end is the tiny fuel atomizing end, which you do NOT even wanna attempt to unplug with a wire, etc. Nothing exist that'll go thru that hole...I promise, so don't even go there.
Foreign matter(a previous unknown science project from old fuel setting some time or other) that gets trapped in there CANNOT and WILL NOT come out on its own running bike, don't care if you dump a can of Sea Foam in there. Dropping pilots in a nasty carb cleaner won't even resolve or dissolve the problem.....BTDT. A wire out of a wire brush, magnifying glass and go 'fishin'.

Same time, inspect the diaphrams for pinholes. Theirs 6 locations where rubbing from motion will cause pinholes. Several options for repairs, and Plasti-Dip is NOT one unless its done on both sides of diaphrams so the Dip adheres to itself, and it is not very fuel vapor resistant. In my experience using it for this repair, the tiny fix 'dobs' came loose and were scattered all in vacuum chamber, fortunately not plugging anything off, but made a mess. My prep prior was anal too. I ened up using and extremely expensive two part plastic bumper repair product and dual(two-part) product that's pushed thru a one-time use mixing chamber. Already had the product and application gun, and it's impervious to bout every chemical out there when set, which only gives you less than a minute 'set' time.....anyways, was a permanent fix.

That oughta' keep ya' busy for a couple days........take your time and tripple check your work as you go......way less frustrating and time consuming gettin' to your goal.......and if in doubt, ask BEFORE proceeding....makes things alot less frustrating for you........and here.

[bikerphil]

.

There are tangs on the side of the metal float arm, it controls how far down the float drops when the bowls are empty, and sometimes it can be set too far which then allows the needle to drop too far and get cocked/angled which can prevent it from sliding back up into the seat to seal properly. The screwdriver hammer tapping technique can help dislodge the needle jam and allow it to then slide up. You CAN bend the drop tang to only allow a few mm's worth of drop/movement so that the needle won't drop down too far.

+1 on the needle getting cocked and the wire clip hanging up on the float adjustment tang.

[Bonz]

bikerphil isn't talking about the wire clip on the needle in and of itself getting cocked and hung up, from how I read it. However, that is a good thought beyond what we've talked about so far.

He is talking about the overall travel of the float when fuel level is low, and adjusting the tangs on the side of the floats themselves to control that travel, so the float needle tip does not drop below the edge of the seat and possibly get jammed/off kilter when fuel level rises in the bowl.

[bikerphil]

Both the float drop level and the wire clip interfering can be problems on these 80+ carbs. The way I have remedied this situation before on a few members bikes is to set the drop level so the float opens the valve just enough to let fuel thru and then eliminate those wire clips altogether.

[Jeffintampa]

crap

I have almost lost the will..........Called the dealer about the pins. the ones I got had a little taller button on them than mine. Dealer said I grantee its the seats.....makes me sick.

I guess I will do the freaking same thing I have done 6 times already pull them back of the bike tonight tear the stupid 8887656657 thing apart AGAIN

[Bonz]

JIT,

Have you cleaned/polished the needle seats? Your current seats are easily brought back to new for performance purposes. Part of what I see happening is replacing a few parts when the other parts in the system are not being done to likewise, and banging your head against the wall because the same thing keeps not working. That right thar' is the definition of insanity as per Albert Einstein I believe.

Easiest and proper way if they were mine is with rubbing compound and Qtips. Coat the Qtip with compound and spin the sucker around in the seat while putting good pressure on it and get the seat area where the needle tip rests shining like new. Other options include profiling a pencil eraser to fit in the seat and do the same thing with rubbing compound or use a Dremel tool with the little polishing pads and coat them with compound.

[motoman]

Both the float drop level and the wire clip interfering can be problems on these 80+ carbs. The way I have remedied this situation before on a few members bikes is to set the drop level so the float opens the valve just enough to let fuel thru and then eliminate those wire clips altogether.

The Mikuni wire clips on GENUINE Mikuni float needles are NOT an issue, as they are a continuious one piece. Aftermarkets like K&L and such, the float needle hanger wire is open-ended across its' top hanger wire. With OEM Mikuni hanger wire loops, floats can hit bottom of bowl(not the normal setting by any stretch) without creating a 'wedge' scenario.

[TopCatGr58]

Here are the photos borrowed from the UK site!

[Jeffintampa]

Well

Went out this am to do something not sure were to start other than take em out is the next step. I turn the petcocks on reserve (tank low on gas from all the leaks) Choked it on the first chock fired right up and sounded good, took it off chock and it was running fine, looked under and gas dripping out behind them.

Setting on my bench, not sure if I want to crack into them again myself. I almost ran them to the Yamaha dealer in town. Just real hard to chock off the couple hundred right now.....

I could swing boxing them up and mailing out..........

[motoman]

Definitely no offense intended Jeff, and you seem to like these ole'11's specificly, but it is imperative that you personnally learn how to fix issues on these scoots yourself. Theirs been many before you here that thought they had no real mechanical ability, and now know their bike inside and out.......necessary for any roadside 'glitch' that may take place.
There will ALWAYS some little voodoo gremlin that'll arise on any flavor of 'elderly' scoot.....ain't no gettin' around it.
With the help here, ANYONE can be led to a good result. Your worst nightmare WILL begin if you even consider a bike shop or dealer to resolve the bike problems. Just because it's a 'motorcyle' or m/c dealer doesn't mean there knowledgable, and 99.9% haven't a clue as to how to resolve older bikes issues anyways, even tho they would have you believe they do.
The collective knowlwdge AND help here IS unsurpassed.....anywhere!
Bottom line......you HAVE been warned.

[Jeffintampa]

I wish

Jeff,

I editted your thread title to reflect your need for some hands on assistance!

Hopefully someone near you will chime in and offer to help you out in person!

T.C.

I need help, something just is not right,,,,,,,

[DiverRay]

Jeff,
I just pulled carbs on my '79 again.... see my '79 redo thread to get an idea of what I have done. Anywho, found one float with a crack in it, and it had fuel inside!. I'm lucky in that I DO have a few spare parts, so I was able to replace it. I also noted that 3&4 plugs are BLACK from running rich. I think I have it now, but I'll have to see.
So no, you're not the only one who needs to go back in a few times. I'm a "guru" to some, but a second or third look sometimes brings things out. If you can, just enjoy the weekend, and go back to the carbs after a little break. It seems for me that helps a LOT.

[motoman]

Jeff,
I just pulled carbs on my '79 again.... see my '79 redo thread to get an idea of what I have done. Anywho, found one float with a crack in it, and it had fuel inside!. I'm lucky in that I DO have a few spare parts, so I was able to replace it. I also noted that 3&4 plugs are BLACK from running rich. I think I have it now, but I'll have to see.
So no, you're not the only one who needs to go back in a few times. I'm a "guru" to some, but a second or third look sometimes brings things out. If you can, just enjoy the weekend, and go back to the carbs after a little break. It seems for me that helps a LOT.

'second or third look'.........very fortunate......its only taken me how long to sort out the glitches?....and I'm an original owner AND certified mechanic(retired).
Diver Ray is spot-on........give it a break and enjoy the weekend with other interest.
BTW, what helped me.........was having the other 'turn-key' bike listed......easily 'mothball' the xs in the corner till frustrations subsided.

It's 'all good', and worth the permanet grin that's left with success!

[Jeffintampa]

Knew it

broke the post off carb 2 today,,,,,I am done who wants it sell it cheap